Incubators Anonymous

[ozexpat]

A
The temp differential differs by model and you can purchase ones that do either 1°F or .1°F, I will be testing
and verifying that on the one I purchased (WH7016F, 110v, 0.1°F delta) because I will have to see to believe
that it is really a tenth of a degree diff capable.
Simple conversion shows that the 0.3°C is ~0.5°F.
The on and off temps of the heater can be programmed.


B
I have yet to find a good electronic one that I trust but I also have not bought any of the more expensive ones.

C
Placing the temp sensor in something that simulates the mass of an egg is a good idea and preferably that mass should approximate that
of the eggs you are incubating but you also lose knowing what the air temp is.

D
I wonder why no one has made an incubator that uses some sort of water bag with heated water in contact with about half or less of the eggs surface
that would better simulate a hen?

E
Making incubation more of an art than a science with a lot of work going into developing proper techniques and closely watching the bator all the time.

F
Now, to make things even more interesting I also have a Willhi humidity controller on order and an ultrasonic atomizer
in mind to automatically control the humidity.

E
The hovabator type foam incubator with the wafer is FAR more stable than the electronic Little Giant I had my poor BQ eggs in for a few days
but I will in the future have a need for an incubator for more valuable bird eggs.

F
We will see how it works out, bought some cement board and coated Masonite today to start on the new incubator.
Already have foam insulation for the unit, thinking of going two layers for one inch total thickness.

A. The resolution is 0.1 the hysteresis is 1 degree per instruction manual I also looked at the other models manafactured by orimay electrical company

B. You will be surprised at the accuracy of the temp probe on the device. The brand I use measures ice water at 0.1C and boiling water at 99.9 everytime straight out of the box.

C I did not mean to place the temp probe of the controlling thermostat into the wigglie, I meant a seperate device. As I am uncomfortable with the swing of the WILLHI in the C version, I wont use them for incubation but as I have several, I use them just for thermometers.

D There are threads where people have used heating pads with not so good results

E I made a simple conversion for my LG



Works like a charm now. The swing even with a 0.5F (0.3C) hysteresis on the bator is not as significant as with the dial band way more controllable. I set this one at 38.2 to get an internal egg temp of 38.

It has 24 developing Lav Orps in it wight now. A 20 buck conversion turned a crappy bator into something equivalent of a $150 genesis.


F The science of incubating is fascinating to me. There are some great sites for research info. The art of putting it to practice to get a better hatch rate is exhilarating

G. Coated masonite works really well on the inside of a bator when it comes to cleaning.

I have used 2 layers of coated masonite with 3/4 foam board in between with great results. my environment has no more than a 10C swing from night to day or summer to winter so mega thick insulation is not that important - just enough to stop wasting money heating room air.

 

[gander007]

Question: Do you guys lift the incubator top to remove chicks while they hatch? I have heard people do this all the time. But then, I've heard that if you do this, the rest of the hatching eggs will be messed up. Any experienced reply would be great. Thanks!

The chicks can do just fine for 3 days in the incubator and you should not pull the chicks out just because some hatched and you should give them time to dry off in the incubator and removing the lid lowers the humidity and temp for a short time but this is why it is called lock down .......

 

[sonderah]

At lock down did you lower temp. and add water to raise humidity. Or did you add water and pull the vent plug?

I just added water to raise the humidity. I don't ever keep the vent plug in. I don't even know where it is. Lol

 

[Yiannisk]

A. The resolution is 0.1 the hysteresis is 1 degree per instruction manual I also looked at the other models manafactured by orimay electrical company

B. You will be surprised at the accuracy of the temp probe on the device. The brand I use measures ice water at 0.1C and boiling water at 99.9 everytime straight out of the box.

C I did not mean to place the temp probe of the controlling thermostat into the wigglie, I meant a seperate device. As I am uncomfortable with the swing of the WILLHI in the C version, I wont use them for incubation but as I have several, I use them just for thermometers.

D There are threads where people have used heating pads with not so good results

E I made a simple conversion for my LG



Works like a charm now. The swing even with a 0.5F (0.3C) hysteresis on the bator is not as significant as with the dial band way more controllable. I set this one at 38.2 to get an internal egg temp of 38.

It has 24 developing Lav Orps in it wight now. A 20 buck conversion turned a crappy bator into something equivalent of a $150 genesis.


F The science of incubating is fascinating to me. There are some great sites for research info. The art of putting it to practice to get a better hatch rate is exhilarating

G. Coated masonite works really well on the inside of a bator when it comes to cleaning.

I have used 2 layers of coated masonite with 3/4 foam board in between with great results. my environment has no more than a 10C swing from night to day or summer to winter so mega thick insulation is not that important - just enough to stop wasting money heating room air.

D. http://www.brinsea.com/products/z6.htm

But look at the price !! not for me anyway

 

[ladycat]

D. http://www.brinsea.com/products/z6.htm

But look at the price !! not for me anyway

 

[Runawaylobster]

Question: Do you guys lift the incubator top to remove chicks while they hatch? I have heard people do this all the time. But then, I've heard that if you do this, the rest of the hatching eggs will be messed up. Any experienced reply would be great. Thanks!

Mine stay in there until pretty much everyone except the stragglers are hatched this can be 24 hrs or more they are fine.

reasons for me to take them out are
1. There are so many they are causing distress to the other ones still hatching
2. The ones left hatching are real stragglers and prolonging the entire hatch for too much time.

 

[gladahmae]

Ok expert hatchets. Can I start shoving eggs under my broodies? I'm not convinced he's doing his job yet. Old roo has been gone for 3.5 weeks, new guy has been in for 4 days.

 

[sonderah]

Ok expert hatchets. Can I start shoving eggs under my broodies? I'm not convinced he's doing his job yet. Old roo has been gone for 3.5 weeks, new guy has been in for 4 days.

Looks like a bullseye to me! He musta "hit the mark". Lol

 

[Dawnrenae]

Out of 23 eggs 10 hatched. 3 babies didn't make it for whatever reason.

Concerned a little. I have one GIANT baby bird who doesn't wanna walk around, and two babies with full feathers forming on their wings?

Am I wrong in thinking a day old bird shouldn't have feathers?

 

[Sclark73]

Out of 23 eggs 10 hatched. 3 babies didn't make it for whatever reason.

Concerned a little. I have one GIANT baby bird who doesn't wanna walk around, and two babies with full feathers forming on their wings?

Am I wrong in thinking a day old bird shouldn't have feathers?

I have some that have the fast feathering gene for pullets but not sure what you have or if that breed you have is known for that gene. I just know I have it from keeping records over the past 2 years. So it's not wrong thinking, it's just genetics.