Integration: did I make a mistake

[Juliamcda]

I have a flock of two and I am attempting to add a third. The third hen (Squeaky) has been with us a little over a week. I keep her in a big dog cage next to the regular coop. Robin a bigger hen keeps attempting to attack Squeaky in her pen. I switch the hens between the coop and the dog cage - Squeaky in coop other Robin and Lilly in the dog cage; then switch in couple hours. I have had all three out in the yard so it was less territorial but when Robin sees Squeaky she will race across the yard to get her. Robin has jumped on Squeaky and savagely started pecking her head. I keep them separated but I sit in the coop area and let them out together once in a while. Robin is obsessive! What can I do? Have I made a mistake bringing in Squeaky?

 

[Mrs. K]

Try and put Squeaky and Lilly together. and Robin in the time out. Now Squeaky and Lilly may have a few dust ups, but as long as there is no blood, let them work it out. Leave it that way for a week, with Robin in the time out.

After a week, let Robin in with the girls shortly before dark. The urge to roost will be nearly as strong as the urge to fight. Hopefully, that will cause it to go. If not, put old Robin back in the crate and move it to where she cannot be seen by the other birds. Leave her there for a week. Then try again.

Generally if you only have 2-3 birds, you have a small set up which can make this much harder. Go take a look at your run, can a bird get out of sight? If not, add clutter. A pallet leaned up against a wall, a roost in the corner, a scrap piece of plywood to make a mini wall. A platform that chickens can get under or on top. It will make it look cluttered to you, but chickens will find it more interesting. So many times on here, I see wide open runs, where a bird cannot get away from or out of sight of other birds.

Mrs K

 

[Mrs. K]

...and add an extra feed station, preferably out of sight of where you now feed them.

 

[Mimi13]

Excellent advice, @Mrs. K, excellent advice!

 

[sarahconnor]

Try and put Squeaky and Lilly together. and Robin in the time out. Now Squeaky and Lilly may have a few dust ups, but as long as there is no blood, let them work it out. Leave it that way for a week, with Robin in the time out.

After a week, let Robin in with the girls shortly before dark. The urge to roost will be nearly as strong as the urge to fight. Hopefully, that will cause it to go. If not, put old Robin back in the crate and move it to where she cannot be seen by the other birds. Leave her there for a week. Then try again.

Generally if you only have 2-3 birds, you have a small set up which can make this much harder. Go take a look at your run, can a bird get out of sight? If not, add clutter. A pallet leaned up against a wall, a roost in the corner, a scrap piece of plywood to make a mini wall. A platform that chickens can get under or on top. It will make it look cluttered to you, but chickens will find it more interesting. So many times on here, I see wide open runs, where a bird cannot get away from or out of sight of other birds.

Mrs K

That is cool. I never thought to add architecture in the run. Or an escape hatch so to speak. I’ll work on that.

 

[aart]

I switch the hens between the coop and the dog cage - Squeaky in coop other Robin and Lilly in the dog cage; then switch in couple hours.

This can help and is a good intuitive move on your part.
But might need to do more.
It would help us to help you if you would post some pics of your coop/run/crate setup.


This might help:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/introducing-a-single-hen-to-an-existing-flock.71997/

as might these tips on.....
Integration Basics:
It's all about territory and resources(space/food/water).
Existing birds will almost always attack new ones to defend their resources.
Understanding chicken behaviors is essential to integrating new birds into your flock.

Confine new birds within sight but physically segregated from older/existing birds for several weeks, so they can see and get used to each other but not physically interact.

In adjacent runs, spread scratch grains along the dividing mesh, best if mesh is just big enough for birds to stick their head thru, so they get used to eating together.

The more space, the better. Birds will peck to establish dominance, the pecked bird needs space to get away. As long as there's no copious blood drawn and/or new bird is not trapped/pinned down and beaten unmercilessly, let them work it out. Every time you interfere or remove new birds, they'll have to start the pecking order thing all over again.

Multiple feed/water stations. Dominance issues are most often carried out over sustenance, more stations lessens the frequency of that issue.

Places for the new birds to hide 'out of line of sight'(but not a dead end trap) and/or up and away from any bully birds. Roosts, pallets or boards leaned up against walls or up on concrete blocks, old chairs tables, branches, logs, stumps out in the run can really help. Lots of diversion and places to 'hide' instead of bare wide open run.

 

[lutherpug]

The last time I integrated youngsters was when I had a much smaller setup than I currently enjoy. What really helped for me was building some vertical escapes out of scrap wood that I had laying around and putting a separate food and water station about 3 1/2 feet off the ground for the new girls. It wasn't pretty but it got the job done.

 

[Juliamcda]

Try and put Squeaky and Lilly together. and Robin in the time out. Now Squeaky and Lilly may have a few dust ups, but as long as there is no blood, let them work it out. Leave it that way for a week, with Robin in the time out.

After a week, let Robin in with the girls shortly before dark. The urge to roost will be nearly as strong as the urge to fight. Hopefully, that will cause it to go. If not, put old Robin back in the crate and move it to where she cannot be seen by the other birds. Leave her there for a week. Then try again.

Generally if you only have 2-3 birds, you have a small set up which can make this much harder. Go take a look at your run, can a bird get out of sight? If not, add clutter. A pallet leaned up against a wall, a roost in the corner, a scrap piece of plywood to make a mini wall. A platform that chickens can get under or on top. It will make it look cluttered to you, but chickens will find it more interesting. So many times on here, I see wide open runs, where a bird cannot get away from or out of sight of other birds.

Mrs K

Thank you Mrs. K. I have put Squeaky and Lilly out together and have caged Robin in site of Lilly and Squeaky. Squeaky and Lilly have had some heated conversations but nothing to cause hurt. I have the two free in the yard this morning and have put them back in the coop area together. Lilly takes Squeaky in stride letting her know who the boss is and Squeaky seem ok with that, hiding when she wants to and enjoys the nesting area. Robin on the other hand is quite frustrated and pissed off. If she does not calm down soon I will move her away from Squeaky and Lilly. However as of now things are looking good for Lilly and Squeaky.

 

[sarahconnor]

This can help and is a good intuitive move on your part.
But might need to do more.
It would help us to help you if you would post some pics of your coop/run/crate setup.


This might help:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/introducing-a-single-hen-to-an-existing-flock.71997/

as might these tips on.....
Integration Basics:
It's all about territory and resources(space/food/water).
Existing birds will almost always attack new ones to defend their resources.
Understanding chicken behaviors is essential to integrating new birds into your flock.

Confine new birds within sight but physically segregated from older/existing birds for several weeks, so they can see and get used to each other but not physically interact.

In adjacent runs, spread scratch grains along the dividing mesh, best if mesh is just big enough for birds to stick their head thru, so they get used to eating together.

The more space, the better. Birds will peck to establish dominance, the pecked bird needs space to get away. As long as there's no copious blood drawn and/or new bird is not trapped/pinned down and beaten unmercilessly, let them work it out. Every time you interfere or remove new birds, they'll have to start the pecking order thing all over again.

Multiple feed/water stations. Dominance issues are most often carried out over sustenance, more stations lessens the frequency of that issue.

Places for the new birds to hide 'out of line of sight'(but not a dead end trap) and/or up and away from any bully birds. Roosts, pallets or boards leaned up against walls or up on concrete blocks, old chairs tables, branches, logs, stumps out in the run can really help. Lots of diversion and places to 'hide' instead of bare wide open run.

Super good ideas!!

 

[sarahconnor]

These are super ideas!!!