International Black Copper Marans Thread - Breeding to the SOP

[Chooks man]

Some nice color from these pullets. Next three months, which hen is laying what egg and how many? View attachment 2494918

stunning my friend ,you are in the right truck for sure . Bravo .
chooks man

 

[Chooks man]

Line #2 pullets are begining to lay. Their color is better than line #1.
The last 4 in this pic are line #2.
Im hoping their shape gets more round as they lay more.

I also notice the are redder than line #1.

View attachment 2494803

very nice , lovely color especially the 2 first on the right . all the worry and the hard work are paying off now my friend .
do not get tempted to incubate these eggs .be patient and let the pullets become hens before you breed them ,
you want to have great future stock ,so hatch from hens not pullets .

chooks man

 

[Chooks man]

Not sure I agree. I had a Pullet give me about 12 eggs last year and she went broody. Was a great mother also. If nature says it’s ok who am I to say it’s not.
Personally I’m not talking about Pullets that just started laying but a 8-10 month old Pullet I do not see an issue.

in the nature chicks from pullets will be eaten by the foxes .
nature does not do wrong but does not have time to baby sit any body .
chooks man

 

[Punkybrewster]

I remember way back on this thread, it was strongly suggested to only incubate eggs that are 65g or more.

This would produce larger, healthier pullets.
Big egg= big hens.

I am assuming that when the eggs are large enough, they will be close to a year old given that they start laying around 7-8 months old.

In my mind, that means I only have to wait about 3-4 months to hatch properly. It doesnt seem too long of a wait if I think this way.

Problem is, this would mean i wait until May or June.
Here in the south, it gets so humid and hot, i have difficulty keeping the humidity down in the incubator.

But I will wait for them to reach at least 65g.

 

[Chooks man]

I remember way back on this thread, it was strongly suggested to only incubate eggs that are 65g or more.

This would produce larger, healthier pullets.
Big egg= big hens.

I am assuming that when the eggs are large enough, they will be close to a year old given that they start laying around 7-8 months old.

In my mind, that means I only have to wait about 3-4 months to hatch properly. It doesnt seem too long of a wait if I think this way.

Problem is, this would mean i wait until May or June.
Here in the south, it gets so humid and hot, i have difficulty keeping the humidity down in the incubator.

But I will wait for them to reach at least 65g.

yes you are correct . 65g is the minimum .
I know few friends of mine in France they practice one incubation a year ,same months each year end of April . pullets hatched end of April { Spring in France} will be penned to breed from at 10 months old end of February , the eggs will be collected 4 weeks after penning them with a rooster end of March ,that mean the pullets are now 11 months old .the chicks will hatch again end of April .the mothers now are 1 year old .
year in year out ,same method ,great result . one of the best marans lines in Europe . proven formula from serious marans breeders .

chooks man

 

[Punkybrewster]

Some nice color from these pullets. Next three months, which hen is laying what egg and how many? View attachment 2494918

And how will you do this?

I am assuming i cage a couple at a time to identify?

 

[Punkybrewster]

yes you are correct . 65g is the minimum .
I know few friends of mine in France they practice one incubation a year ,same months each year end of April . pullets hatched end of April { Spring in France} will be penned to breed from at 10 months old end of February , the eggs will be collected 4 weeks after penning them with a rooster end of March ,that mean the pullets are now 11 months old .the chicks will hatch again end of April .the mothers now are 1 year old .
year in year out ,same method ,great result . one of the best marans lines in Europe . proven formula from serious marans breeders .

chooks man
[/QUOTE


Very good plan.
I am actually planning to put 1 cockerel in with my legbars and the other with my marans in the next couple of weeks just to make room.

Now to find who is laying what egg and get my notebook out.

 

[LaFleche]

I remember way back on this thread, it was strongly suggested to only incubate eggs that are 65g or more.

This would produce larger, healthier pullets.
Big egg= big hens.

I am assuming that when the eggs are large enough, they will be close to a year old given that they start laying around 7-8 months old.

In my mind, that means I only have to wait about 3-4 months to hatch properly. It doesnt seem too long of a wait if I think this way.

Problem is, this would mean i wait until May or June.
Here in the south, it gets so humid and hot, i have difficulty keeping the humidity down in the incubator.

But I will wait for them to reach at least 65g.

Here come my reasons for only hatching eggs being laid by hens at least 2 years or older:

• The hens have to prove their egg colour, shape and weight being consistent and solid and not fading after a few weeks of laying activity.
  
  
• Same goes for shell quality/thickness.
  
  
• They have to prove being strong and robust, not prone to any illness or parasites.
  
  
• They have to show how they deal with moulting and how they come out of it. How long will they take and will their plumage and overall appearance will still be correct afterwards?
  
  
• Character qualities have to show in a mature bird: Is she a good flock mate, mellow, friendly, no nervousness or incessantly harassing others? Plucking feathers?
  
  
• Will she readily accept the rooster you choose as her mate or will she run from him or even expel the semen after the mating?
  
  
• About her instincts:
  Will she go broody and if so, will she be a good and reliable broody or leave the nest when only half the time is done?
  Will she kill the hatching chicks?
  Will she care for them properly and defend them?
  For how long will she take care of them? Just 3 weeks or up to 10-12?
  
  
• As I already stated before, the egg yolk to albumen ratio is much better with eggs from hens 2 years or older.
  With increasing hen age the egg yolk gets bigger and the hatch easier as the chicks will not run the risk to drown in excessive albumen which can be a problem when incubating Marans eggs and even more so eggs stemming from pullets already laying 65g or more.
  
  As Marans shell pores are very small and the shell usually very hard and the amnion/egg membrane strong, during the incubation the evaporation can be reduced comparing to "normal" eggs leaving too much albumen at the end of the incubation period, which then will cause a problem for the chicks trying to hatch.
  
  
• This is also the reason why Marans eggs hatch best under a broody, where the eggs will be moved daily scraping against each other and in doing so filing off the outer membranes and opening up the pores for better evaporation of the albumen and better oxygen exchange which is important to enable the chicks muscles for proper movement when hatching.
  
  Over the course of three weeks the constant moving of the eggs in addition with the sand from the broody's feet mellow the egg shell and the chicks will hatch easily.
  
  
• Here is how I incubate Marans eggs:
  
  Marans eggs always at 45% or even 40% humidity for the first 18 days, otherwise the necessary amount of evaporation cannot take place and the risk of drowning chicks will be high.
  From day 18-21 I up the humidity to only 60%-65%, not higher or the necessary exchange of oxygen will be reduced and the chicks lack of oxygen can cause muscle weakness and they will take much longer to hatch if they will be able to do so at all.
  
  And cof course always use only eggs at least 65g, better 75-80g, but no bigger.

 

[Chooks man]

Here come my reasons for only hatching eggs being laid by hens at least 2 years or older:

• The hens have to prove their egg colour, shape and weight being consistent and solid and not fading after a few weeks of laying activity.
  
  
• Same goes for shell quality/thickness.
  
  
• They have to prove being strong and robust, not prone to any illness or parasites.
  
  
• They have to show how they deal with moulting and how they come out of it. How long will they take and will their plumage and overall appearance will still be correct afterwards?
  
  
• Character qualities have to show in a mature bird: Is she a good flock mate, mellow, friendly, no nervousness or incessantly harassing others? Plucking feathers?
  
  
• Will she readily accept the rooster you choose as her mate or will she run from him or even expel the semen after the mating?
  
  
• About her instincts:
  Will she go broody and if so, will she be a good and reliable broody or leave the nest when only half the time is done?
  Will she kill the hatching chicks?
  Will she care for them properly and defend them?
  For how long will she take care of them? Just 3 weeks or up to 10-12?
  
  
• As I already stated before, the egg yolk to albumen ratio is much better with eggs from hens 2 years or older.
  With increasing hen age the egg yolk gets bigger and the hatch easier as the chicks will not run the risk to drown in excessive albumen which can be a problem when incubating Marans eggs and even more so eggs stemming from pullets already laying 65g or more.
  
  As Marans shell pores are very small and the shell usually very hard and the amnion/egg membrane strong, during the incubation the evaporation can be reduced comparing to "normal" eggs leaving too much albumen at the end of the incubation period, which then will cause a problem for the chicks trying to hatch.
  
  
• This is also the reason why Marans eggs hatch best under a broody, where the eggs will be moved daily scraping against each other and in doing so filing off the outer membranes and opening up the pores for better evaporation of the albumen and better oxygen exchange which is important to enable the chicks muscles for proper movement when hatching.
  
  Over the course of three weeks the constant moving of the eggs in addition with the sand from the broody's feet mellow the egg shell and the chicks will hatch easily.
  
  
• Here is how I incubate Marans eggs:
  
  Marans eggs always at 45% or even 40% humidity for the first 18 days, otherwise the necessary amount of evaporation cannot take place and the risk of drowning chicks will be high.
  From day 18-21 I up the humidity to only 60%-65%, not higher or the necessary exchange of oxygen will be reduced and the chicks lack of oxygen can cause muscle weakness and they will take much longer to hatch if they will be able to do so at all.
  
  And cof course always use only eggs at least 65g, better 75-80g, but no bigger.

you are absolutely correct .
chooks man

 

[Punkybrewster]

Here come my reasons for only hatching eggs being laid by hens at least 2 years or older:

• The hens have to prove their egg colour, shape and weight being consistent and solid and not fading after a few weeks of laying activity.
  
  
• Same goes for shell quality/thickness.
  
  
• They have to prove being strong and robust, not prone to any illness or parasites.
  
  
• They have to show how they deal with moulting and how they come out of it. How long will they take and will their plumage and overall appearance will still be correct afterwards?
  
  
• Character qualities have to show in a mature bird: Is she a good flock mate, mellow, friendly, no nervousness or incessantly harassing others? Plucking feathers?
  
  
• Will she readily accept the rooster you choose as her mate or will she run from him or even expel the semen after the mating?
  
  
• About her instincts:
  Will she go broody and if so, will she be a good and reliable broody or leave the nest when only half the time is done?
  Will she kill the hatching chicks?
  Will she care for them properly and defend them?
  For how long will she take care of them? Just 3 weeks or up to 10-12?
  
  
• As I already stated before, the egg yolk to albumen ratio is much better with eggs from hens 2 years or older.
  With increasing hen age the egg yolk gets bigger and the hatch easier as the chicks will not run the risk to drown in excessive albumen which can be a problem when incubating Marans eggs and even more so eggs stemming from pullets already laying 65g or more.
  
  As Marans shell pores are very small and the shell usually very hard and the amnion/egg membrane strong, during the incubation the evaporation can be reduced comparing to "normal" eggs leaving too much albumen at the end of the incubation period, which then will cause a problem for the chicks trying to hatch.
  
  
• This is also the reason why Marans eggs hatch best under a broody, where the eggs will be moved daily scraping against each other and in doing so filing off the outer membranes and opening up the pores for better evaporation of the albumen and better oxygen exchange which is important to enable the chicks muscles for proper movement when hatching.
  
  Over the course of three weeks the constant moving of the eggs in addition with the sand from the broody's feet mellow the egg shell and the chicks will hatch easily.
  
  
• Here is how I incubate Marans eggs:
  
  Marans eggs always at 45% or even 40% humidity for the first 18 days, otherwise the necessary amount of evaporation cannot take place and the risk of drowning chicks will be high.
  From day 18-21 I up the humidity to only 60%-65%, not higher or the necessary exchange of oxygen will be reduced and the chicks lack of oxygen can cause muscle weakness and they will take much longer to hatch if they will be able to do so at all.
  
  And cof course always use only eggs at least 65g, better 75-80g, but no bigger.

This is excellent information.
I am very new to Marans and their breeding.

For now, this year, i am test mating and establishing my line.

When i get further along in breeding, i will certainly take this advice. By then, i will have enough hens and pullets to use this practice.