Irregular egg hatching timing and attacking hens, what to do

jrfosterjr

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We've had several hens (Barred Rocks) go broody within the last month, and one of the things they've managed to do is to collect some of the eggs from some of the layers and pull them over and include them with their own. We've been averaging a hatch a day or so for the last week, but every time one is hatched, it is attacked. We've managed to rescue two, and are working on a third that suffered a head wound this morning.

Is it possible to remove all the eggs and get them into an incubator, knowing that the hatch times will be all over the place?

For the future, I know it would likely help for me to put dividers in our nest boxes, but I'm trying right now to deal with a situation as it is.

All of our chickens are free range.

On a related note, is there an effective way to deal with hens that continually attack their own chicks? These are first time "moms". We have one hen that appears to be a part-time brooder and she is one of the attackers.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Jeff
 
are the broodies attacking the babies, or other hens?

we've had other hens kill babies, and the only time a broody rejected a baby, it was odd-looking anyways.

next time you have a broody with a collection of eggs, if you can catch her right at the day, or within a day or two since she started sitting, take all the eggs away, and mark new completely un-set eggs for her to sit on, what I've started doing (since the marks do fade) is marking 4 circles on all 4 sides of the broody eggs, then every day or other day going out and pulling eggs that arn't marked(because no matter what you do, other hens will lay eggs in a broodies nest), that way they arn't all these staggered hatches.

I'd say if the mommas are attacking the babies, then they're getting confused.

ETA: another thing you can do(wich will take time on YOUR part to make sure she gets out every day), is put a peice of plywood that fits right over the entrance to the nest box, if they're devided, or a piece of screen that can't be knocked over, so thet the broody is seperated from the other chickens, so no one can get in and hurt the chicks, then seperate momma and babies once all, or most of the babies have hatched, do it at night,I've done this 3 times, and have now a 6 1/2 week old momma raised baby, a momma with her 4 remaining 12/13 day old babies, and a new momma who's babies just started hatching yesterday.
 
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The broodies attack them as well as the other hens. The last couple seem to have been attacked in the head and slung out of the nest. I found them 1-2 feet outside the nest box into the coop.

Thanks.
 
I've read that it is best to isolate the broody hen with her eggs in a separate house while she hatches and raises the babies. The other hens might attack the chicks and other broody hens can attack each others eggs and chicks.

Try setting up a little broody house for the mama and her babies. Best of luck.

Also try reading lThis I found it very helpful.

Although I have never tried it yet myself so take everything I say with a grain of salt.
 
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Anny, thank you for the link!

I've had lots of broodies over many years, and right now I have 4 hens raising babies, and 6 more brooding. I read the guide on the link, and mostly, I agree. It's pretty good, until you get to the 3rd part, (Hen and chicks) through #9. From #10 on, I disagree with parts of it. Mostly just way too cautious about letting mom and babies back with the flock, or outside..

First, let me explain a few things. I do not have room to isolate every one of these broodies, or any way to keep anywhere from 3 to 10 clutches of chicks separated from the rest of the flock, each clutch in their own space with mom. If you do have such facilities, more power to you, but most people can't quite manage to separate more than 2 or 3.

Sometimes conditions will be less than perfect, but you do what you can, with what you have.

Here's what I do: I do have space to separate a few broodies. I isolate the ones that I know are good moms, but may not be good at keeping other hens out of the nest, and give them most of the eggs I have available. When one of them hatches her eggs, I let her stay with them in the private room for about 3 days. Then I let them out with the rest of the flock, and move another hen in to the private maternity ward.

The others only get a few eggs each, and many of those get broken, some by the broodies, stealing each others eggs, some by other hens stepping on them while climbing in to add their own eggs. Some get knocked out of the nest and broken. So these girls don't get the choicest eggs. I don't expect much out of them, there's just too much traffic in the nests!

When they do hatch some chicks, they are right there with the rest of the flock, and as soon as they want to, they take the chicks outside. I don't think I've ever had chicks with a hen, that had to wait a whole month before going outside. Even incubator chicks, if I have a new mom at the right time, I'll stick those chicks under her at night, and it usually works fine. Some of my hens are so maternal, I can just hand them a chick anywhere near the other chicks ages, and they'll take them. Some don't even care about that, they'll adopt anything. I realize this is not true of a lot of hens.

I do not wait until chicks are nearly full grown to add them to the flock. I do not keep mom and chicks away from the flock for more than a few days, unless there's something odd going on that makes it necessary. i.e., a dark Cornish hatched out some keets for me, and a guinea kept attacking her and trying to take them. I tried to let the guinea raise a couple, but she nearly got them killed, because the whole group wasn't in on it. (Guineas don't parent as individuals like chickens do. The keets were wet, cold, could barely move they were so hypothermic. I warmed them indoors in a brooder, then gave them to the Cornish.) So she got a private pen with the keets until the guineas lost interest, about 3 weeks.

But it is a very good general guide. You won't harm anything by using this guide, even if some of it really puts you through more trouble than you really need.

For your situation, you might isolate who you can, and let them have the majority of the eggs. You can candle them and try to set the ones that look at about the same stage of development, together. If you want to incubate the rest, just try to group them by development, guess by candling.

You can stick the other hens in wire bottom cages with food and water, but off the ground with no nesting materials, to break the brooding cycle. It takes just a few days, then they can go back to the rest of the flock.

I have a couple of hens that seem to be good at setting, but have no idea what to do when an egg starts to hatch. They're getting special leg bands, so I can tell who they are, and they will not get eggs anymore. They will get the "breaking the broody cycle" treatment, instead. They just take up nest space, peck the heck out of me, steal eggs, and then let the chicks die when they hatch. And keep brooding. Off to the wire pen with them!

Oh, and I always, always, always, mark my eggs and date them. Even if I don't expect to have other eggs with other dates, because unexpected stuff happens. That way I always know when eggs are due to hatch. If there's a broody in a good place to take eggs at day 18, so that you don't have to change humidity in the 'bator, that's a big help. You can rotate out eggs to broodies, as they come due to hatch. That way if you can rig up even one isolated area for one hen at a time, you can let her hatch and raise chicks. Just put her in the isolation space with some fake eggs or other substitute to see if she set in the new space, before you give her the 'bator eggs. So you have to move her a few days early. If more chicks hatch in the bator while she's still in the pen, you may be able to slp them under her at night.

Good luck. I hope you can resolve your broody problems. Try not to let them make you crazy, they're good at that, I know!
 

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