Is it legal to raise quail in my back yard?

The easier cleaning and tending are definitely pros to going with a wire bottom elevated cage. My run is not all that easy to clean in terms of scooping out poop. If you want to go with something low maintenance and easy to clean I suggest you look into the deep litter method. It would be easy to design for it as you are just in the planning stages now. It would also eliminate the problem of bumblefoot.
 
OK then.. something good to think about!
I notice that many chicken coops have an "upstairs" with a ramp "downstairs," but you don't see that with quail coops. That kind of design, it seems, would be ideal for a deep liter on the ground, and then perhaps just the wire floor on the upstairs part. But since I'm not seeing these designs in my searches of pictures of quail coops, I'm guessing there is a good reason for it --maybe the boinking problem.
 
Quail are ground dwellers and don't really use ramps. Some might if taught but most don't. That's why you don't see them in quail coops.

Deep litter does work better on the ground but you can use it with a raised surface if you plan for it. Check out this thread from a user who has it in a raised cage. Lots of great info. https://www.backyardchickens.com/t/832431/quail-on-deep-litter-why-it-works
 
Quail are ground dwellers and don't really use ramps. Some might if taught but most don't. That's why you don't see them in quail coops.

Deep litter does work better on the ground but you can use it with a raised surface if you plan for it. Check out this thread from a user who has it in a raised cage. Lots of great info. https://www.backyardchickens.com/t/832431/quail-on-deep-litter-why-it-works
Thanks! That is a fantastic (and long!) thread about DL..

So... Many... Ideas!!
 
This guy has an enviable set-up: https://backyardfarmer.co.nz/category/quail-all-about/quail-housing/
His are indoors though. Just remember wet poop will stink so make your cages as weather proof as possible. Quail can also fly - I've only had the occasional escapee which I have managed to catch again without too much drama, so just keep that in mind when designing door sizes (just make sure you have a larger door to make cleaning easier).

Most people find their quail are calmer and friendlier when kept in elevated cages. I tried to put a group in our aviary and they acted like highly strung prey animals. So they got moved back to their old off the ground cage,

This also has very good information about the different ways they can be kept: http://www.quailfarm.co.uk/index.php/quail-info/quail-cages
 
Ok.. I think I'm going to build an elevated coop for them then, with a solid back wall, a small "house" on one end, and an open area for the rest. This tends to be the design that I see over and over again.

So my design is starting to meld. Here are my thoughts:

->Elevated off the ground a few feet
->8' wide, x 2 deep, and 1' tall in the front, plus maybe 6" more height in the rear to accommodate a slanted roof.
->Nesting/shelter box on the left side, approx 2' x 2' with solid but removable plywood floor for cleaning purposes.
->I plan on installing an elec. outlet in nesting box so that I can use a heat lamp in the winter.. Maybe this area needs to be taller than my 1' design in order to to keep the lamp out of harms way?
->The open coop will have 1/2" metal screen material on all sides, and probably the bottom too. I like the idea of DL and may switch over to it, but I think I'll start off with wire floor to see how it goes.
->I will install a second, lower floor and perimeter of 1/2"mesh below the first as an additional deterrent from predators. (birds won't be in this floor--it is just added protection)

I'm still trying to work out some other design features in my mind that I think are really cool, but I'm not exactly sure how to build:
->slanted floor so eggs roll forward for easy collection. How is this done for an outdoor cage without adding predator risk?
->PVC pipe feeder system
->Those cool water nipples... how do they work, or is there another easy way to have water?

My feeding and watering plans need to allow for me to provide food and water enough for several days or even up to 2 weeks. We travel a bit in the summer for long weekends and up to 2 weeks. If I can get a feeding and watering system to be reliable for that long, it would be a real benefit.
 
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You don't need a heat lamp. It's better for the birds not to have it and there is a serious risk of fire with it.

Not sure about the slanted floor. If you left easy access to eggs for two weeks you will attract predators and vermin (squirrels and rats like eggs too).

I don't think you'll want to leave them for two weeks unchecked. A lot of this can happen, like a failure in the water system, injuries, etc. You'll at least want to have someone check them every other day.

If I remember right, quail do better with the cup style automatic waters. I use the regular chicken gravity feed waters. They are a pain because the quail get them dirty, probably not an issue in a wire cage. If like to switch over eventually but don't have any experience to share.
 
You don't need a heat lamp. It's better for the birds not to have it and there is a serious risk of fire with it.

Not sure about the slanted floor. If you left easy access to eggs for two weeks you will attract predators and vermin (squirrels and rats like eggs too).

I don't think you'll want to leave them for two weeks unchecked. A lot of this can happen, like a failure in the water system, injuries, etc. You'll at least want to have someone check them every other day.

If I remember right, quail do better with the cup style automatic waters. I use the regular chicken gravity feed waters. They are a pain because the quail get them dirty, probably not an issue in a wire cage. If like to switch over eventually but don't have any experience to share.
Thanks for this info...

Regarding a heat lamp... what about a light bulb? I've read that in order to have eggs, i will need to supplement additional light on a timer to stimulate egg production, especially in the winter months. True??
 
Yes if you want winter eggs you'll need to offer light. They need about 14 hours a day to lay. Won't be as high a fire danger but of course there is also a risk when you're dealing with electricity outside. But it would be the same with anything you plug in. I use heated waters and there's even a small risk with them.
 
ok.. so I will go ahead and install an outdoor-rated elec outlet in the nesting box for a light, and possibly to plug in a heated water system too. I'm pretty good with electrical work..

Thanks!
 

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