Is She Broody or Crazy?

Lol!!! Well, I can take summers off from work or at least cut waaaay back on my hours (I'm a teacher, or at least I try to be one). In a perfect world (who am I kidding?!), one of my lovelies would go broody this summer.

However... The 3 week mark for Miss Poppy here will fall during my Spring Break.... Might *actually* be convenient....

Decisions, decisions...
:barnie
 
It can be done, and is successfully all the time. :cool:

It's great that you shared your experience. That's why we are here is to share with and learn from each other. :thumbsup

We may have different goals or situations and that's okay. No one way is ALWAYS right.

I would never suggest trying to adopt 3 week old chicks, but your integration sounds like it went well. You just never really do know, I guess until ya try... :confused:

Thanks for sharing! :highfive:
That’s what I love about BYC. I had read pros and cons of trying to get broodies to accept older chicks, and there were mixed reviews. I honestly didn’t think it would work and was surprised that it has. But one thing I knew for sure was that I could come here to find out the possibilities from experienced knowledgeable and friendly folks. Thank you for being one of them!!
 
Lol!!! Well, I can take summers off from work or at least cut waaaay back on my hours (I'm a teacher, or at least I try to be one). In a perfect world (who am I kidding?!), one of my lovelies would go broody this summer.

However... The 3 week mark for Miss Poppy here will fall during my Spring Break.... Might *actually* be convenient....

Decisions, decisions...
:barnie
One thing I’ve learned is the broodies will do absolutely everything. So as long as they have food, water, and shelter from other hens the first week, they will do it all. I hovered, of course my first hatch, but soon realized she didn't need me at all!
 
I'm still thinking I might try to get her to take chicks. She's only on day 3, though, so we will see. Just kinda worried about her weight. Should I put food and water near her? I assume she gets off occasionally, but, oh, she seemed so skinny this evening.
They do get a little skinny looking, but they seem to fill out again after the chicks are bigger. I’m not sure about the comb, but a bright red plumpy comb is a sign of sexual maturity and fertility (I think). Maybe their combs get paler while they’re brooding so the roosters won’t bug them?
 
I personally will NOT put food or water near a sitting broody. It does not in my opinion keep them in better condition. They have slowed down their metabolism so that they don't poop all over the nest. They need to get up and stretch and go dirt bathe and relieve themselves, usually once or twice per day. If I think they need to move and haven't seen them do so, I will go boot them and check their crop. They've almost always beaten me to food. And booting them off AIR (cuz I collect the eggs) has never broken one of my gals unless I lock them out of the nest for several days and in a wire bottom kennel at night. Broody's are sitting targets for parasites like lice or mites, they need their time out. Food and water will not be accessed at night by hens or chicks as they don't get up in the dark. Only rodents appreciate night time feeding.. and they will eat chicks AND broody's given the opportunity! :hmm

Now I don't know this for a fact.. but just reasonable deduction thinking here... If you are training a dog not to poo all over the house... Timed feedings instead of free choice can help as food and water coming in tell the intestines to make more room. Feeding once or twice cuts down to one or two bowel movements. Seems like broody's (or their instinct) kinda get this already as they fill up and drop their atrocious broody bombs at about the same time. :sick

I definitely would not let a gal sit who's condition I was already concerned about.

Eggs are a nice nutritious treat... but ALL things should be given in moderation. Eggs are 34% protein and 64% FAT by energy (calorie content not weight). Half the protein oddly enough is in the yolk. Chicken feed is the BEST thing you can give them as it's formulated to meet their need in FULL by law. Though I don't recommend "layer" for broody's as it's often 16% protein and 4% calcium... I recommend a non medicated starter, or something like Purina flock raiser with 20% protein and oyster shell on the side for those still actively laying. I feed my whole flock this way and never need to feed separately. One issue with using our eggs to supplement our birds, that I have discovered... Any deficiency the bird has can translate to the egg and then we THINK we got it covered but it can be a false sense of security. Hatching your own eggs can really clue you into this stuff.

Supplements I can recommend...

Poultry Nutri Drench... has not only vitamins... but importantly amino acids. Works great for shipped or struggling chicks.

Rooster Booster brand Poultry Cell is superior to the PND in my opinion for flock supplementing during any time of stress,

Also the standard bird vitamins made by Oasis sold at Wally in the pet department. When peeps recommend baby vitamins with NO iron, that is supposed to be IF you already have it on hand OR can't find the other products. It works in a pinch but *may* not be the best option.

Anyways... just food for thought. :pop:)
 
Is she laying yet? I have a buff orpington who makes that exact noise when she is laying, it's hilarious!

She's laying, but she's been like this for 4 days now. Cracks me up every time I go in the coop.

I personally will NOT put food or water near a sitting broody. It does not in my opinion keep them in better condition. They have slowed down their metabolism so that they don't poop all over the nest. They need to get up and stretch and go dirt bathe and relieve themselves, usually once or twice per day. If I think they need to move and haven't seen them do so, I will go boot them and check their crop. They've almost always beaten me to food. And booting them off AIR (cuz I collect the eggs) has never broken one of my gals unless I lock them out of the nest for several days and in a wire bottom kennel at night. Broody's are sitting targets for parasites like lice or mites, they need their time out. Food and water will not be accessed at night by hens or chicks as they don't get up in the dark. Only rodents appreciate night time feeding.. and they will eat chicks AND broody's given the opportunity! :hmm

Now I don't know this for a fact.. but just reasonable deduction thinking here... If you are training a dog not to poo all over the house... Timed feedings instead of free choice can help as food and water coming in tell the intestines to make more room. Feeding once or twice cuts down to one or two bowel movements. Seems like broody's (or their instinct) kinda get this already as they fill up and drop their atrocious broody bombs at about the same time. :sick

I definitely would not let a gal sit who's condition I was already concerned about.

Eggs are a nice nutritious treat... but ALL things should be given in moderation. Eggs are 34% protein and 64% FAT by energy (calorie content not weight). Half the protein oddly enough is in the yolk. Chicken feed is the BEST thing you can give them as it's formulated to meet their need in FULL by law. Though I don't recommend "layer" for broody's as it's often 16% protein and 4% calcium... I recommend a non medicated starter, or something like Purina flock raiser with 20% protein and oyster shell on the side for those still actively laying. I feed my whole flock this way and never need to feed separately. One issue with using our eggs to supplement our birds, that I have discovered... Any deficiency the bird has can translate to the egg and then we THINK we got it covered but it can be a false sense of security. Hatching your own eggs can really clue you into this stuff.

Supplements I can recommend...

Poultry Nutri Drench... has not only vitamins... but importantly amino acids. Works great for shipped or struggling chicks.

Rooster Booster brand Poultry Cell is superior to the PND in my opinion for flock supplementing during any time of stress,

Also the standard bird vitamins made by Oasis sold at Wally in the pet department. When peeps recommend baby vitamins with NO iron, that is supposed to be IF you already have it on hand OR can't find the other products. It works in a pinch but *may* not be the best option.

Anyways... just food for thought. :pop:)

This is my first broody experience. I'm playing it by ear. I know they kind of put everything on pause, but I gave her food and water anyway. If she makes a mess of the nest, I will deal with that and remember not to do it next time. I will take her out tonight and see what happens. If she eats, drinks, poops, etc., I will take the food and water away. She has been perfectly healthy up to this point, but I am a worrier. Big time. So I might be overreacting.

And I am STILL not sure whether I want her to adopt chicks in a few weeks or not. I will definitely deide by tonight. Need to discuss it with my husband.
 

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