Jerk chicken-- and not the good kind

[New2theFlock]

Since your setup has several sections perhaps you could put a feeder and a waterer in each section.

This is the shelter DH made for my run: https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/an-outdoor-shelter-for-the-feeder-and-waterer.76487/

That it a good idea. I didn't know we needed more than one. Thanks for the advice.

 

[New2theFlock]

When you have social/behavioral problems it's good to have multiple feed and water stations with visual blocks between them. That way the bully hens can't prevent the victims from eating.

Layer feed has minimal protein. Try switching to an all-flock feed with 18 or, preferably since you have a problem, 20% protein. Offer the oystershell on the side so that they can choose how much to eat when they need it.

Thank you. I bet our local farm store will have the ones with more protein. I will check it out.

 

[Folly's place]

That 15% protein is way low for most of our birds, and mixing the oyster shell adds too much calcium to an already high calcium layer diet. Change to a 20% protein diet, and have the oyster shell in a separate container. I'd add a grit container too.
Here we don't use the nipple waterers, because I feel that multiple birds may not get enough watering opportunities. More feeders, and more waterers, is separate areas.
You will need to add the new feed into the old feed, because chickens do hate changes! Just mix a bit for a transition.
And about feed; check the mill date on each bag, it needs to be fresh! I like to use the feed within two months of it's mill date!
Mary

 

[New2theFlock]

Since your setup has several sections perhaps you could put a feeder and a waterer in each section.

This is the shelter DH made for my run: https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/an-outdoor-shelter-for-the-feeder-and-waterer.76487/

Super cool feeders. We will try and add something similar for the girls. Thanks.

One of the challenges is that we can't get inside two of the sections of the run. We can only reach over (in the middle section) or under (West Wing, which is a modified chicken tractor). The West Wing is completely covered all around except a small chicken sized door connecting it to the uncovered run (center section). The entrance from the uncovered run (in the middle) to the covered run and coop is a small solar powered door just big enough for the chickens to go in and out of during the day, and it closes at night, leaving the covered run and coop itself secure for the girls over night.

Does that change any guidance? I think we'd just need to place the additional waterer near the edge so we can lift it over to fill, clean, etc.

Would we need to bring the additional feeder in at night to keep vermin and predators away?

 

[New2theFlock]

Welcome to BYC. Where, in general, are you? Climate matters for many things.



What are the actual dimensions of the coop and run?

The Usual Guidelines

For each adult, standard-sized hen you need:

• 4 square feet in the coop (.37 square meters)
• 10 square feet in the run (.93 square meters),
• 1 linear foot of roost (.3 meters),
• 1/4 of a nest box,
• And 1 square foot (.09 square meters) of permanent, 24/7/365 ventilation, preferably located over the birds' heads when they're sitting on the roost.

8 hens

• 32 square feet in the coop. 4'x8' is approaching the limits for a non-walk-in coop even with the access door in the middle. 6'x6' should be walk-in because even the tallest chicken-keeper won't be able to reach the far wall.
• 8 feet of roost
• 80 square feet in the run. 8'x10' is a nice looking number but, remembering the common dimensions of lumber, a roomier 8'x12' is actually easier to build. 6'x14' looks good on paper but would require a lot of weird cuts.
• 8 square feet of ventilation.
• 2-3 nest boxes.

These numbers are *guidelines*, not hard-and-fast *rules* and at, under, or over them doesn't *guarantee* either trouble or being trouble-free, but even moderate crowding increases the likelihood of social problems.

I see in the photos that your run doesn't have much "clutter": https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/a-cluttered-run.1323792/

Clutter is important because subordinate chickens show that they accept their superiors' dominance by getting out of the way -- breaking line of sight and giving the top birds their space free and clear.

Also, how many feeding and watering stations do you have? Is it possible for a bird at one feeder/waterer to see the other feeder/waterer and thus guard the resources?

That said, as has been noted above, sometimes feather-picking is improved by switching to a higher-protein feed.

I am in GA near the mtns.

 

[New2theFlock]

That 15% protein is way low for most of our birds, and mixing the oyster shell adds too much calcium to an already high calcium layer diet. Change to a 20% protein diet, and have the oyster shell in a separate container. I'd add a grit container too.
Here we don't use the nipple waterers, because I feel that multiple birds may not get enough watering opportunities. More feeders, and more waterers, is separate areas.
You will need to add the new feed into the old feed, because chickens do hate changes! Just mix a bit for a transition.
And about feed; check the mill date on each bag, it needs to be fresh! I like to use the feed within two months of it's mill date!
Mary

Thank you, Mary. I appreciate the suggestions

 

[3KillerBs]

Super cool feeders. We will try and add something similar for the girls. Thanks.

One of the challenges is that we can't get inside two of the sections of the run. We can only reach over (in the middle section) or under (West Wing, which is a modified chicken tractor). The West Wing is completely covered all around except a small chicken sized door connecting it to the uncovered run (center section). The entrance from the uncovered run (in the middle) to the covered run and coop is a small solar powered door just big enough for the chickens to go in and out of during the day, and it closes at night, leaving the covered run and coop itself secure for the girls over night.

Does that change any guidance? I think we'd just need to place the additional waterer near the edge so we can lift it over to fill, clean, etc.

Would we need to bring the additional feeder in at night to keep vermin and predators away?

As long as you get a second feeder and waterer and can put it out of sight of the existing ones it should be ok.

Some people bring the feeder in at night, others don't. It's a personal and situational thing.

 

[Shabby Chic-Hens]

if you need to, you can always "time out" the bullies. one of my tips: put the bad hens in a coop by themselves, but where they can still see the other hens. every day, give the good hens a handful of meal worms and make sure that none of the bullies get any, but will still be watching the other hens happily peck away. while this method probably won't work that good, it's still worth a shot for a week.

 

[Saveria]

We had some success with the pinless peepers. They are basically chicken blinders, so they can't focus in front of them as well, where they would be going to pull the feathers out. Eventually, our Welsummers found a way to get around it, and wouldn't stop picking at the rooster, so we sent them to live at another farm together, but some chickens are completely cured from feather pulling.

 

[New2theFlock]

We had some success with the pinless peepers. They are basically chicken blinders, so they can't focus in front of them as well, where they would be going to pull the feathers out. Eventually, our Welsummers found a way to get around it, and wouldn't stop picking at the rooster, so we sent them to live at another farm together, but some chickens are completely cured from feather pulling.

That's an interesting solution, Severna. Thanks for letting me know.