Kat’s Journey into Chicken Keeping

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I'm sorry , this is my 1st time doing young pullets so I'm in the same boat you are. However if your hens are laying they should be on layer feed which is higher in calcium & protein plus they need some grit.
They have grit. They have had grit since they were getting treats (other than their feed). I keep the grit in one bucket and the oyster shell in the other bucket.
The problem I had with the layer feed I have looked at is that the protein percentage is less.
I don’t know if that even matters.
 
Friends:
I am taking a poll of my seasoned chicken friends (that would be all of you guys, of course)
I raised my chicks on Dumor 20% chick grower.
I never switched food. I looked at the various All-Flock feeds but when I compared ingredients and nutrients, they were basically pretty much the same. Except that they were more expensive. Not a lot, like one or two dollars more for a 50 pound bag.
Well, a dollar is a dollar so I just kept them on the 20% chick grower. I keep a small tin bucket of crushed oyster shell available for them, and they do eat it!
At this point all nine of my hens are laying eggs and the oldest four are nine months old, and the younger ones going on seven months old. They are all healthy and energetic, and they are all laying nice eggs with awesome solid shells. And they are hitting the oyster shells hard.
So I am wondering, if you were me, would you switch them to a layer feed?
I hesitate because I like the higher protein content, they love the food, and their eggshells are all nice and solid.
I give them an evening snack almost every day of “salad” which consists of collard greens, kale, peas, and occasionally whatever leftover veggie and fruit pieces I have.
I throw them a little scratch on cold days.
I just want to be sure they are getting the best diet.
@Ribh @WhoDatChick @BY Bob @cavemanrich @drstratton @Kris5902@MaryJanet @Grammy60 @featherhead007
and anyone I forgot.
The only thing I worry about is the other nutrients besides calcium and protein. I would like to compare labels. Perhaps I will do that for you.
 
They have grit. They have had grit since they were getting treats (other than their feed). I keep the grit in one bucket and the oyster shell in the other bucket.
The problem I had with the layer feed I have looked at is that the protein percentage is less.
I don’t know if that even matters.
My understanding is that chicks need more protein than adults, because they grow so fast. Once they reach maturity laying hens only need 15-17% protein. Kind of like rabbits, I fed my babies alfalfa, but the adults only get timothy hay and pellets with alfalfa in them, because too much protein is hard on their kidneys. I'm sure once @BY Bob looks at the nutrition labels he will be able to tell you more. I feed my flock Purina layer crumbles and extra oyster shells on the side! I figure they have it pretty well figured out. I don't provide extra grit as the soil here has plenty of grit in it and they free range all day long!
 
So I looked up the Dumor Chick Grower that you are using along with Purina Layena and what I use which is Flock Party Egg Maker Crumbles. Dumor does not list the ingredients for their Layer feed online. The comparison is listed below.


Dumor 20% Chick GrowerFlock Party Egg Maker CrumblesPurina Layena
Protein (min)
20.00%​
16.00%​
16.00%​
AshN/AN/A
16.00%​
Lysine
1.00%​
0.80%​
0.70%​
Methionine
0.50%​
0.35%​
0.30%​
Fat (min)
3.00%​
3.00%​
2.50%​
Fiber (max)
6.00%​
7.00%​
Not listed
Calcium (min)
1.00%​
3.50%​
3.25%​
Calcium (max)
1.50%​
4.50%​
4.25%​
Phosphorus (min)
0.70%​
0.55%​
0.45%​
Salt (min)
0.25%​
0.25%​
0.30%​
Salt (max)
0.75%​
0.75%​
0.80%​
Sodium (min)Not Listed
0.01%​
not listed
Sodium (max)
0.50%​
0.50%​
not listed
Manganese (min)100 ppm100 ppm
Microorganisms (min)
Vitamin A3000 IU/lb
Vitamin E12 IU/lb

There are not a lot of significant differences as you can see. A couple of things to point out.

There is no Manganese listed in the grower. A manganese deficiency in layers leads to birth defects in chicks. I guess if you are not going to hatch the eggs it wont be a problem but it is put into the egg and your layers will run out of it if they don't get it elsewhere in their diet.

The Phosphorus content is also down in the layer feeds. I guess that more is probably required for growing. I need to look that up.

If you are going to switch to a layer feed, I highly recommend the Happy Flock. My TSC has it. It has no ASH. How they can put ASH into chicken feed is beyond me but all of the other layer feeds I looked at had ASH as a major component. Happy Flock does not. It also has probiotics in it which I like.

I was just doing this exercise the other day with All Flock feeds as i need to switch because Lilly no longer lays.
 
My understanding is that chicks need more protein than adults, because they grow so fast. Once they reach maturity laying hens only need 15-17% protein. Kind of like rabbits, I fed my babies alfalfa, but the adults only get timothy hay and pellets with alfalfa in them, because too much protein is hard on their kidneys. I'm sure once @BY Bob looks at the nutrition labels he will be able to tell you more. I feed my flock Purina layer crumbles and extra oyster shells on the side! I figure they have it pretty well figured out. I don't provide extra grit as the soil here has plenty of grit in it and they free range all day long!
When Molting Higher protein feeds will help them to grow feathers faster. Many people will switch them back to grower or get feather fixer feed to provide higher protein at that time.
 
So I looked up the Dumor Chick Grower that you are using along with Purina Layena and what I use which is Flock Party Egg Maker Crumbles. Dumor does not list the ingredients for their Layer feed online. The comparison is listed below.


Dumor 20% Chick GrowerFlock Party Egg Maker CrumblesPurina Layena
Protein (min)
20.00%​
16.00%​
16.00%​
AshN/AN/A
16.00%​
Lysine
1.00%​
0.80%​
0.70%​
Methionine
0.50%​
0.35%​
0.30%​
Fat (min)
3.00%​
3.00%​
2.50%​
Fiber (max)
6.00%​
7.00%​
Not listed
Calcium (min)
1.00%​
3.50%​
3.25%​
Calcium (max)
1.50%​
4.50%​
4.25%​
Phosphorus (min)
0.70%​
0.55%​
0.45%​
Salt (min)
0.25%​
0.25%​
0.30%​
Salt (max)
0.75%​
0.75%​
0.80%​
Sodium (min)Not Listed
0.01%​
not listed
Sodium (max)
0.50%​
0.50%​
not listed
Manganese (min)100 ppm100 ppm
Microorganisms (min)
Vitamin A3000 IU/lb
Vitamin E12 IU/lb

There are not a lot of significant differences as you can see. A couple of things to point out.

There is no Manganese listed in the grower. A manganese deficiency in layers leads to birth defects in chicks. I guess if you are not going to hatch the eggs it wont be a problem but it is put into the egg and your layers will run out of it if they don't get it elsewhere in their diet.

The Phosphorus content is also down in the layer feeds. I guess that more is probably required for growing. I need to look that up.

If you are going to switch to a layer feed, I highly recommend the Happy Flock. My TSC has it. It has no ASH. How they can put ASH into chicken feed is beyond me but all of the other layer feeds I looked at had ASH as a major component. Happy Flock does not. It also has probiotics in it which I like.

I was just doing this exercise the other day with All Flock feeds as i need to switch because Lilly no longer lays.
This is great information Bob. I haven't seen the brand that you use in my area. I don't usually go to the town where TSC is at, but I will have to check it out!
 
Well,,,,, let me throw in my opinion here. I'm not one in favor of feeding my chickens on a science diet. Chickens have been around since dinosaurs, and before humans, and there was no Purina back then.
I feed my chickens Alflock, since I have layers, and Geriatric non-layers. :old Alflock is 18% protein, and 2% calcium. Of course I provide Oyster shells free-choice. I also liberally give them scratch, and bird seed grains. Yes... I do break the Federations' rule of 10% BIG TIME.:gig:lau.. Chickens also get all kitchen scraps, and anything else eatable. NO sweets or spoiled junk. They free-range in backyard when I'm around. Their run is is also large with plenty of things to scratch thru.
All my chickens live long lives. I also do not eat my chickens. I do eat chickens from the store regularly. and LUV:love the Colonel💕:hugs

So let me view and comment on the Dumor 20%. It is not carried by my feed store, and I have no reason to search it out. Am happy with the feed they carry.
I,,, would not hesitate feeding it for the rest of the chickens lives. Everyone, (feed producers) will have slight differences in trace amounts of ingredients. It is the formula that each company decides is their BEST.

Now comes the 20% protein question.
Game bird feed is minimum 20% and up to 28% or higher.
The 20% feeds are recommended for chickens. I don't think chickens are going to start dying of organ failure from such protein amounts. Higher than necessary protein amounts tend to produce runnier stools, and somewhat smellier than normal. This happens usually if there is a high spike in amount.

Some things about protein;
If chickens are getting this 20% feed, and free-range, and get treats, then their total dietary protein intake get watered down to below the 20%.

Chickens that lay eggs, need protein to produce eggs. So for example, you feed your chicken this higher protein feed, you may achieve 300 eggs per year from said chicken. Same chicken fed a lower protein feed like 16% (industry low percentage to get optimum $$$ out of your hens) will produce less eggs in a given year, given all other factors being same.
I don't have charts and numbers with amounts of eggs, but basic science. You cant get out more if you put in less.
Protein is the higher cost ingredient in feed. That is why everyone tries to get by with as little cost as possible to make a nicer looking bottom line.:old

Hope this puts your mind at ease, about your feed. :highfive:
 
Well,,,,, let me throw in my opinion here. I'm not one in favor of feeding my chickens on a science diet. Chickens have been around since dinosaurs, and before humans, and there was no Purina back then.
I feed my chickens Alflock, since I have layers, and Geriatric non-layers. :old Alflock is 18% protein, and 2% calcium. Of course I provide Oyster shells free-choice. I also liberally give them scratch, and bird seed grains. Yes... I do break the Federations' rule of 10% BIG TIME.:gig:lau.. Chickens also get all kitchen scraps, and anything else eatable. NO sweets or spoiled junk. They free-range in backyard when I'm around. Their run is is also large with plenty of things to scratch thru.
All my chickens live long lives. I also do not eat my chickens. I do eat chickens from the store regularly. and LUV:love the Colonel💕:hugs

So let me view and comment on the Dumor 20%. It is not carried by my feed store, and I have no reason to search it out. Am happy with the feed they carry.
I,,, would not hesitate feeding it for the rest of the chickens lives. Everyone, (feed producers) will have slight differences in trace amounts of ingredients. It is the formula that each company decides is their BEST.

Now comes the 20% protein question.
Game bird feed is minimum 20% and up to 28% or higher.
The 20% feeds are recommended for chickens. I don't think chickens are going to start dying of organ failure from such protein amounts. Higher than necessary protein amounts tend to produce runnier stools, and somewhat smellier than normal. This happens usually if there is a high spike in amount.

Some things about protein;
If chickens are getting this 20% feed, and free-range, and get treats, then their total dietary protein intake get watered down to below the 20%.

Chickens that lay eggs, need protein to produce eggs. So for example, you feed your chicken this higher protein feed, you may achieve 300 eggs per year from said chicken. Same chicken fed a lower protein feed like 16% (industry low percentage to get optimum $$$ out of your hens) will produce less eggs in a given year, given all other factors being same.
I don't have charts and numbers with amounts of eggs, but basic science. You cant get out more if you put in less.
Protein is the higher cost ingredient in feed. That is why everyone tries to get by with as little cost as possible to make a nicer looking bottom line.:old

Hope this puts your mind at ease, about your feed. :highfive:
The same thing is done with the prepared food that's marketed to us!
 
I thought about that, but I was just sharing what I understood to be needed under normal circumstances! :)
I was just trying to be comprehensive in case someone who didn't know came across the post. There was no implied lack of knowledge on your part. Sorry. :oops:
 

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