Right now I'm using a huge aquarium for a brooder, but I WANT to switch to a wire bottom, only problem is I priced the materials and it seems like it will cost roughly 75 bucks, which is kinda a lot just for some wood and wire...
Keets in the Mail
- Thread starter perchie.girl
- Start date
That brooder cage rawks deb, you go woman! Happy happy keets!
Excellent auto-waterer set up too, you need to send me instructions for making those, I need about 6 of em!
And I can personally attest to brooder, cage and coop supplies being ridiculously expensive... I took one for the team tho and bit it hard, for both supplies and a contractor this year. Never ever again. I'll be scoutin' out used materials from now on!!!
Excellent auto-waterer set up too, you need to send me instructions for making those, I need about 6 of em!
And I can personally attest to brooder, cage and coop supplies being ridiculously expensive... I took one for the team tho and bit it hard, for both supplies and a contractor this year. Never ever again. I'll be scoutin' out used materials from now on!!!
- Thread starter
- #93
Quote:
The PVC ran a little under three dollars for ten feet. The corner connectors ran about a dollar... fifteen plus eight is 23 the roll of plastic wire around 20. Tie wraps about another five. For a total of approximately 50 bucks. for material that can be re-purposed later. If you have some scrap wood pieces of leftover plywood you can swap that out for some of the wire. I purchased a pvc cutter which isnt necessary but it cut the construction time by about seventy five percent.... to me time is money. They range between nine and sixteen bucks I bought a cheap one. The kicker is the Wire. If you are keeping the brooder outside it would NOT be predator proof. It would be perfect to keep inside a Coop But if you have to keep it outside I would say to go with hardware cloth and that takes your price back up to 75.
This cage has no door only a slit in one end for access which is covered with a flap of cage material held in place with a bamboo skewer woven in and out of the netting. Works really good too.
If you want to build one I would be happy to lend you a hand.
The PVC ran a little under three dollars for ten feet. The corner connectors ran about a dollar... fifteen plus eight is 23 the roll of plastic wire around 20. Tie wraps about another five. For a total of approximately 50 bucks. for material that can be re-purposed later. If you have some scrap wood pieces of leftover plywood you can swap that out for some of the wire. I purchased a pvc cutter which isnt necessary but it cut the construction time by about seventy five percent.... to me time is money. They range between nine and sixteen bucks I bought a cheap one. The kicker is the Wire. If you are keeping the brooder outside it would NOT be predator proof. It would be perfect to keep inside a Coop But if you have to keep it outside I would say to go with hardware cloth and that takes your price back up to 75.
This cage has no door only a slit in one end for access which is covered with a flap of cage material held in place with a bamboo skewer woven in and out of the netting. Works really good too.
If you want to build one I would be happy to lend you a hand.
Thank you for the offer! I really appreciate that! I do think I'll be building a wood and wire one, just not anytime soon as I don't have any extra money right now. Thank you though!
- Thread starter
- #95
Quote:
Easy but not cheap. The fittings alone for the bucket were around 18 bucks. I am going to do a part by part photo shoot for building one. There were a couple of parts I might have gone PVC with but because the Bulkhead fitting to go through the bucket was brass I opted to go brass the whole way.
I used the very same bulkhead and fittings to make the Thirty gallon one up at the house. that one would easily serve six separate automatic waterers.
Easy but not cheap. The fittings alone for the bucket were around 18 bucks. I am going to do a part by part photo shoot for building one. There were a couple of parts I might have gone PVC with but because the Bulkhead fitting to go through the bucket was brass I opted to go brass the whole way.
I used the very same bulkhead and fittings to make the Thirty gallon one up at the house. that one would easily serve six separate automatic waterers.
- Thread starter
- #96
I just wanted to post this to show the progress my littleuns have made:
After a terrible battle with predators I think I have a handle on it.... but there are now twenty three left. Sigh. This Picture showes them all thats the only way I can count em.
My coop right now for them is a twelve by six dog kennel. I just acquired enough wire to make a 24 x 24 secure enclosure to form the outside walls of the poultry house. a friend gave me over 90 linear feet of ten gauge aviary panels. out of that I will have enough to make skirts or aprons as well. Since I want to use wood for a portion of the walls. Here its common to use all wire or all chainlink. But I have found that if you can build a short wall say three or four feet tall Most predators wont see the activity inside too well.
So a major redesign for the exterior of the coop is in order. My neighbor Tom used to raise golden pheasants up here and he said the three foot sight barrier is very helpful and that his birds were safe and healty without a coop but a large aviary structure. Which is what I want to do in additon to the Poultry house.
So a little rethink is in order. I intend on expanding the Littluns living space to 12 x 12 soon that should hold them till I get the big house build.
After a terrible battle with predators I think I have a handle on it.... but there are now twenty three left. Sigh. This Picture showes them all thats the only way I can count em.
My coop right now for them is a twelve by six dog kennel. I just acquired enough wire to make a 24 x 24 secure enclosure to form the outside walls of the poultry house. a friend gave me over 90 linear feet of ten gauge aviary panels. out of that I will have enough to make skirts or aprons as well. Since I want to use wood for a portion of the walls. Here its common to use all wire or all chainlink. But I have found that if you can build a short wall say three or four feet tall Most predators wont see the activity inside too well.
So a major redesign for the exterior of the coop is in order. My neighbor Tom used to raise golden pheasants up here and he said the three foot sight barrier is very helpful and that his birds were safe and healty without a coop but a large aviary structure. Which is what I want to do in additon to the Poultry house.
So a little rethink is in order. I intend on expanding the Littluns living space to 12 x 12 soon that should hold them till I get the big house build.
I like the solid wood wall, part way up idea, that should definitely help with predator issues (plus your aviary panels are just about BEAR proof too I think, lol). A little electric fence wire here and there never hurt either
Ouch, down to 23, dang predators anyway... but don't worry, come early spring 2012 you'll be getting eggs by the dozen every day and you can either let one (or three lol) Hens go broody on a pile of eggs, or I can give you some incubating tips to get you started
You'll have to sign a release form first tho... I refuse to be held responsible for another hatching addict
You'll be back up to 40+ Guineas in no time
Ouch, down to 23, dang predators anyway... but don't worry, come early spring 2012 you'll be getting eggs by the dozen every day and you can either let one (or three lol) Hens go broody on a pile of eggs, or I can give you some incubating tips to get you started
- Thread starter
- #99
Quote:
LOL.... I have a Hovabator 1588 still in the box.... With egg turner.....
Bought it before I started on this adventure....
LOL.... I have a Hovabator 1588 still in the box.... With egg turner.....
- Thread starter
- #100
Quote:
I can do half and half wall across the front that will allow me to build real pop doors. I still want to do four breed enclosures. The wire is tough to cut and when you do you expose the edges to rusting. The sharp edges are something to consider too.
I also have swimming pool walls left over from a couple of above ground swimming pools. They are UV Stabilized plastic and you can drill holes and fasten with lag screws and washers. Just one is over fifty feet long. People thought I was nuts bringing those up to the house.... ""Why dont you just throw them away"" they were heavy but I knew they could be used for walls or roofing at the very least.
I can do half and half wall across the front that will allow me to build real pop doors. I still want to do four breed enclosures. The wire is tough to cut and when you do you expose the edges to rusting. The sharp edges are something to consider too.
I also have swimming pool walls left over from a couple of above ground swimming pools. They are UV Stabilized plastic and you can drill holes and fasten with lag screws and washers. Just one is over fifty feet long. People thought I was nuts bringing those up to the house.... ""Why dont you just throw them away"" they were heavy but I knew they could be used for walls or roofing at the very least.
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