Key Design Pointers

[Ted Brown]

On amazon 1/4" HC is about the same price as 1/2" but 23 gauge as opposed to 19 gauge. Will use 1/4".

 

[Folly's place]

I've used both, and prefer the 1/2" because it's stronger. Only young mice can sometimes get through it.
I agree that predator proofing is very very important!
Mary

 

[Ted Brown]

I thought I read that chickens will sometimes kill/eat small rodents?

I am in the country, think increased wire strength is more consistent with the local animal realities (racoon, martin, otter, coyote, fox, hawks...).

 

[aart]

I thought I read that chickens will sometimes kill/eat small rodents?

I am in the country, think increased wire strength is more consistent with the local animal realities (racoon, martin, otter, coyote, fox, hawks...).

Some will, but they don't 'hunt' at night when rodents are most active, so it's not something you can count on.

I agree the 1/2" HC is stronger...but even it can be breached. Make sure you attach it securely(screws and washers 2nd square in from edges are best IMO) or stapled then edges covered with screwed on trim. Make sure it is taut and flat, no bowing where an animal could get a tooth in, strong jaws can break the welds and even the wire itself. I suppose that is where 1/4" might be better, less tooth purchase possibility with smaller holes, but harder to get taut.

Just some thoughts.

 

[Melky]

New member/1st Post/Complete Novice

I would appreciate any/all input & critiques. I live in the country, have ample space, like eggs, have a cat. Location is Quebec/Ontario border, 4 real seasons, cold snowy winters. Will not free run; thinking a small flock of 4-6 birds; can/will devote sufficient space to allow for more(?) birds.

I am building a open pole shed, three 12' by 12' sections, steel sloped (8' to 12') roof, will devote a portion of one section to a coop with access to a run that will be outside of the roofed area although I am prepared to put both coop and run in the one section and under the roof.

I have thought that an off the ground coop with external access would make cleaning/egg access easier but have read that a walk in coop works best.

I would greatly appreciate suggestions/recommendations as to what I should build.

Thanks

Ted

Hi Ted:
I have the coop up with run underneath and attached without adult height door. My coop and run are attached with predator and weather protection. I am roofed and shingled on both coop/run. I wouldn't not have a roof on both coop/run, otherwise at risk for weather problems and predator problems. You want your space to be clean and dry to prevent risk of pests or diseases to your small flock. I have a small flock as well. I am switching to shed for 1/2 shed, 1/2 coop for storage needs with attached run and adult height doors. Your back will be killing you otherwise.

Consider also using 19g 1/2 inch hardware cloth to enclose run or windows etc. on coop as best predator protection for open areas with a 2 ft apron around the base of coop/run to keep out digging predators. Biggest mistake people make is not to do those things and assume they have no predators much where they live. You do even if in suburban area. You may landscape or replace sod around base of coop/run after HWC placement. Some landscape with landscaping rock additionally.

Another nice feature to prevent chickens from kicking out your dirt/mulch in run is to have a 4-6 inch base for framing to attach hardware cloth to. It sounds like you have a wonderful plan with plenty of space.

Below are some things to think about for a chicken owner and choosing the right breed for you and your area. Do not be afraid to ask questions and be prepared for plenty of advice. Love having you here.

https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/choosing-the-right-breed-for-you.74446/

 

[Hobbits Mommie]

@Ted Brown , chickens go into something like a trance at night. Rats & Mice will feed on them while their on the roost, and the chicken won't even attempt to flee. They might only get one of your birds the first time, then bring all of their buddies the next night and kill an entire flock. You are correct though that once the birds are full grown, in the right circumstances anything is fair game. I recently learned this with my puppy...

 

[imnukensc]

I'm not a fan of HWC. You might want to consider 1/2 X 1, 16 gauge, welded wire. Stronger than HWC and much easier to work with IMO.

 

[Folly's place]

The one inch openings are too big; rats and weasels can get in through this stuff.
I have 1/2" hardware cloth, with 2"x4" woven wire over it on the lower 4' of my open walls. Sturdy!!!
These are old pictures; it's more organized now!
Mary

 

[Ted Brown]

HM: 1/2" will shut out rats yes?; small mice/snakes not so much. Are small mice/snakes a risk for fowl?

Predator Proofs:

• Walls & roof made of 1/2" 19 gauge for the run enclosure & coop windows;
• considering 1/4" for a portion of the lower walls onto apron and windows?
• 24" aprons for enclosure only, "L-ed" and attached with care to the bottom enclosure frame; spiked zigged along outer edge. overlapped at corners.

 

[aart]

I think 1/2" is fine for everything, heavier gauge mesh might be added for larger preds.
There are multiple combos that can work.