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You do need to vaccinate, depending on your area and if you plan to show, etc. We vaccinate ours once a year with the "C, D,T" shot (clostriduim perf. C & D, with Tetanus- you give cows this too, but you need to read onthe label to make sure you can give it to goats and sheep.) and we deworm them twice a year with injectable Ivermectin (Ivermec)- you can't drink the milk for a week afterward, and we NEVER deworm pregnant does, we do it after kidding and before breeding. Speaking of breeding, we typically do that in November, for April kids. We milk the does until February, dry them up, then they kid (freshen) in April- this works best for us because our winters are VERY harsh.
You do need to trim their hooves, too. We do this by putting them on the milking stand and using a pocket knife, or hoof nippers if the hooves are bad.
Nubians are my least fave dairy breed, as they are extremely athletic (hard to keep contained) and VERY loud. But that's personal taste! LOL They are good milk goats, and produce more butterfat, but they typically produce the least amount of milk compared to other dairy goats. I prefer Saanens and Alpines, both breeds that give the MOST milk of all dairy breeds.
One thing you will want to MAKE SURE of is the goat's udder. No matter what breed, if you intend to milk her, you NEED a good udder with long, comfortable teats- not too big, and DEFINATELY not too small- I would take a goat you have to milk with 2 hands on one teat than the ones that you milk with 2 fingers and your thumb. And DO NOT believe the person that says "Yeah, her teats are little right now, but as soon as you start hand-milking her, the teats will "pop" and get bigger." They RARELY do that. The teats will be bigger when the doe is milking than when they are dry, but not a huge difference. The length will stay relatively the same, milking or dry.
Also, if the goat kicks and will not let you try touching her udder, etc, PASS! Get one that won't kick and fight. You do not want to be nearly done milking with a gallon of milk in your pail and the goat starts kicking!!! And if they kick when you are just trying to touch, they are EXTREMELY hard to train NOT TO KICK!!!! Get one that DOES NOT KICK.
Getone that is already milking if you can- harder to find, but you know what youa re getting and can try milking her, to see if you like the size of her teats and if she kicks. THIS IS IMPORTANT, as you will be milking TWICE a day, every day. Get one you LIKE TO MILK!!!!