Lots of chick questions

[rosemarythyme]

Do they still need the heat lamp?

When can they go outside?

You're going to need to provide the info on this - what are you lows at outside? What are your current brooder temps at (high and low)? Have you begun weaning them off heat at all?

At what age do they start needing grit?

I give my chicks grit from the start. As far as when they "must" have it, by the time they go outside or are given anything other than milled feed to eat (i.e. treats).

 

[3KillerBs]

Welcome to BYC. Where in general are you? Climate matters so if you put your location into your profile people can give you better targeted advice.

For a first timer with chickens it's probably better to have no males at all. You *might* get a good one, but it's more likely that they'll make your first chicken experience a stressful and unhappy one.

If you have young children or grandchildren I double the recommendation. A cockerel can turn aggressive without warning and when they attack they jump head height on a child and go for the eyes.

If you don't want to eat them yourself, give them away by word of mouth or on Craigslist and understand that most likely they will be eaten. Alternately, contact zoos, raptor rescues, and such places to see if they need feeder birds.

IF they are a desirable breed you *might* be able to sell them. I managed to sell 4 out of 5 this past winter but only because one was a Blue Cuckoo Marans and the others were Blue Australorps -- blue chickens being in fashion right now.

I would just get a couple of extra Pullets. They can can also go outside now if it’s warm enough

I do not recommend "just getting a couple extra pullets". Even 1 to 4 is a high rooster-to-hen ratio that *can* be successful but is more likely to result in a lot of bare backs and stress for the hens.

I have 2 males with 21 hens and have no guarantee that, as the junior cockerel continues to grow, he won't decide to fight the senior cockerel. Also, even with that many hens I have two who are getting barebacked and who may need saddles.

Where do you get pullets? I only know how to find chicks!

If you decide to go that route you can often find people selling sexed pullets on Craigslist or here in the sales part of the forum (if you happen to be in central NC I have some available).

However, I'm concerned about your coop.

The measurements you gave and the number of nests suggest that it's one of those "Amish" style coops, maybe an OverEZ? While *generally* better-built than the average bought coop, they certainly claimed that it holds FAR MORE chickens than it really should and it's undoubtedly very short on ventilation.

Do you have photos of it? We can help you adapt it to be the healthiest possible home for your girls.

The Usual Guidelines

For each adult, standard-sized hen you need:

• 4 square feet in the coop (.37 square meters)
• 10 square feet in the run (.93 square meters),
• 1 linear foot of roost (.3 meters),
• 1/4 of a nest box,
• And 1 square foot (.09 square meters) of permanent, 24/7/365 ventilation, preferably located over the birds' heads when they're sitting on the roost.

4 hens

• 16 square feet in the coop. 4'x4' is the only really practical build for this given the common dimensions of lumber.
• 4 feet of roost
• 40 square feet in the run. 4'x10' or 5'x8'. 6'x6' is a bit too small, 6'x8' is more generous and easier to build than 5'x8'.
• 4 square feet of ventilation. A 2'x2' window is theoretically enough, but in practice doesn't create any air FLOW so better to spread the venting around (and even better to exceed the minimums, especially in warm climates).
• 2 nest boxes, to give the hens a choice

6 hens

• 24 square feet in the coop. 4'x6' is the only really practical build for this given the common dimensions of lumber. If you can't walk into it, put the access door in the middle of the long side to make sure you can reach all areas of the coop because a stubborn chicken WILL press itself into/lay an egg in the back corner where you can't reach.
• 6 feet of roost
• 60 square feet in the run. 6'x10' or 8'x8'.
• 6 square feet of ventilation.
• 2 nest boxes, to give the hens a choice

 

[whispurr]

Those of you saying the coop is wrong for whatever reason, there's nothing we can do about that. It's a Leonard building (like Tough shed but with better customer service.). It will have to work. On the other hand the run isn't built yet and we have a lot less space concerns for that part.

I really wanted 6 hens and a rooster. If we get rid of one rooster and add 2 Easter eggers we should be good on space?

I live in Knightdale, near Raleigh.

I've taken the chicks off the heat lamp. It's still dipping in to the 30s at night.

My chicks (chickens?) are almost 4 weeks old. And stinky! Lol

I think they're ok in their box for a little while longer. Our coop won't be here for another 3-5 weeks. We kind of got the cat before the horse on this one. Not really our fault, we had ordered one from tractor supply but they wouldn't bring it down our dirt road. After talking to y'all here, I'm glad we didn't get that one!

I'm not really new to chickens. I had a flock of Buff Orpingtons about 20-25 years ago. I'm just a rusty chicken owner!

Thanks

 

[3KillerBs]

I live in Knightdale, near Raleigh.

from Moore County.

Here in the Steamy Southeast you'll do best with the most open structure possible so it's likely you'll need to add ventilation -- which is usually one of the easier alterations.

My experience is that I need double or triple the suggested 1 square foot per adult hen minimum to keep a coop under 100F on a 90F day. Or DEEP shade. Top ventilation is necessary to provide airflow, because heat and ammonia both rise.

 

[rosemarythyme]

I've taken the chicks off the heat lamp. It's still dipping in to the 30s at night.

My chicks (chickens?) are almost 4 weeks old. And stinky! Lol

If the brooding area is getting down to the 30s, I'd probably continue to provide some heat for another week or so, unless the chicks proved to me that they were done with it, don't want it.

But sounds like the chicks are indoors (in the house?) so at 4 weeks they wouldn't need it at any temperature that you'd be comfortable at.

 

[whispurr]

If the brooding area is getting down to the 30s, I'd probably continue to provide some heat for another week or so, unless the chicks proved to me that they were done with it, don't want it.

But sounds like the chicks are indoors (in the house?) so at 4 weeks they wouldn't need it at any temperature that you'd be comfortable at.

 

[whispurr]

Yes, they're in the house being socialized. . I think I'll likely have to move them outside before the coop arrives though!

 

[whispurr]

If the brooding area is getting down to the 30s, I'd probably continue to provide some heat for another week or so, unless the chicks proved to me that they were done with it, don't want it.

But sounds like the chicks are indoors (in the house?) so at 4 weeks they wouldn't need it at any temperature that you'd be comfortable at.

Yes, chickens are smelling up the house! lol

 

[whispurr]

My coop is at https://www.leonardusa.com/chicken-coops. Scroll down, it's the second one down, it's unpainted in the picture and it's tall. The Mayberry. Since it's so tall, is there a way to utilize a second level and give them more space? Y'all have been very helpful! Thank you!

 

[3KillerBs]

My coop is at https://www.leonardusa.com/chicken-coops. Scroll down, it's the second one down, it's unpainted in the picture and it's tall. The Mayberry. Since it's so tall, is there a way to utilize a second level and give them more space? Y'all have been very helpful! Thank you!

This one?

That coop has no meaningful ventilation since the only windows are right at roost level. You'll need to open it up at the roof level to create airFLOW.

Height is good, if only to avoid such things as I experienced last summer: https://www.backyardchickens.com/posts/24739256 but only the square footage of the floor space really counts (though carefully-designed poop board setups *can* make the space more useful.

Chickens don't stack for storage.