Mama Heating Pad in the Brooder (Picture Heavy) - UPDATE

Chicks need access to a heat source till they are mostly feathered in. That usually takes about 4 to 6 weeks, depending on the ambient temp of the brooder. The cooler the brooder is kept, the faster they feather in. I routinely have 4 chicks off heat and outside in temps of 30 to 40 degree weather.
Hope that coop is big. Cochins are considered an extra large breed.

So my coop says it is large enough for 6 chickens. Do you have another suggestion for especially cold hardy chickens? I was also thinking Jersey Giants, Easter Eggers or Wyandotte's. I had planned to order 3 chicks of two different breeds, just for some variation.
 
So my coop says it is large enough for 6 chickens. Do you have another suggestion for especially cold hardy chickens? I was also thinking Jersey Giants, Easter Eggers or Wyandotte's. I had planned to order 3 chicks of two different breeds, just for some variation.
Prefab coops grossly overestimate the capacity. They produce their coops using commercial egg farm guidelines. If they say the coop will hold 6, it's more likely suited to 3 at most. For your chosen breeds, you will need at least 5 sq feet of coop space per bird, and at least 10 sq ft of run space per bird.
 
Prefab coops grossly overestimate the capacity. They produce their coops using commercial egg farm guidelines. If they say the coop will hold 6, it's more likely suited to 3 at most. For your chosen breeds, you will need at least 5 sq feet of coop space per bird, and at least 10 sq ft of run space per bird.
ok thank you! I do plan on letting them free range in a large area of my yard so I think my run will only be for those times they can't be outside. Plus I have already drawn up alterations for the coop and the runs.
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ok thank you!  I do plan on letting them free range in a large area of my yard so I think my run will only be for those times they can't be outside. Plus I have already drawn up alterations for the coop and the runs.:D
You could just build it yourself... We built ours and it was well worth the trouble. It's a simple 4'x8' (a cost efficient size) with a slant roof.
 
Too true ladies, thank you! I'm assuming having the cord go straight up and out of the brooder from the MHP setup will help in reducing risk, as the controller won't be in contact with the pine shavings?

OK next question!
I am getting 9 layers and 10 meat birds in one shipment.... Hindsight is better off course, and I'm now seeing that I shouldn't have done that but I really wanted my layers sooner, lol! I know I will need to separate the groups after the first week or so, which means I may need two heating setups. I know several of you have done meat birds so I hope it's okay to get a few answers here. How soon do the cornishX feather out and not need the added heat anymore? FYI I'm in Kentucky and is anything from 23 to 41 degrees at night outside, and 35 to 62 degrees during the day for the next couple of weeks, but the garage will be about 10 degrees warmer at most. And a visual of the brooder.
last spring I raised 5 CX, 2 barred rocks and 2 BBB turkeys together... after a week everyone was fed 2x a day..... the turkeys were suppose to have heat longer so after 4 weeks the chicks went out and 6 more free chicks went in w/ the bbb.. the cx and br went out together. being with layers the cx were more active.. I kept the smallest cx pullet for breeding.
 
You could just build it yourself... We built ours and it was well worth the trouble. It's a simple 4'x8' (a cost efficient size) with a slant roof.

Your right I could, but hubby said he didn't want to do that. We both work full time and he just isn't up for a project for "my animals". I guess I will see how this one works out and go from there. on another note, how often do the chicks need to be checked on? I have seen some posts that say 5x per day and others less. We both still work so I need to figure this out for our schedules.
 
Oh no! I think I'd pay the $10 more to get one today at Target. Every 2 hours will get really old fast.

We'd looked previously in local stores for the pads that have continuous on feature to no avail. And one 24 hour period is OK for me to keep turning this one on. It's no different than when I foster newborn kittens and puppies who need to be fed every 2-3 hours, so I am OK with it! :D

We also have a ceramic heater we can point at the side of the brooder that will keep them warm through the night if necessary!
 
Your right I could, but hubby said he didn't want to do that. We both work full time and he just isn't up for a project for "my animals". I guess I will see how this one works out and go from there. on another note, how often do the chicks need to be checked on? I have seen some posts that say 5x per day and others less. We both still work so I need to figure this out for our schedules.
The first few days after arrival, they do need to be checked on every few hours to make sure that any pasty butt is cleared promptly (it can be fatal if you don't get the vent cleared ASAP), and to ensure that they are finding the heat source and are eating and drinking. The first 48 to 72 hours post shipping is the most critical period. After that, it's just check their food and water in the morning and make sure the pad is at the right height in the morning and the evening.
 
This is a report on my broody hen. I had asked questions here because I'd come to know folks here, and was asked to update. The photo is when they were 2-3 days old. All is going really well, they are 2.5 weeks old now, unfortunately one chick has gone lethargic, is still eating but I've brought her in to a hospital crate after 2 days of lethargy. No diarrhea, I suspect dehydration. Any thoughts would be welcomed.

I wanted to share something related to MHP. I had done MHP with our own chickens' eggs I hatched last spring, and with purchased guinea eggs, both very successfully. Once the chicks had hatched, the first-time hen seemed a little confused about how to deal with the chicks (first time for a broody hen with our chicken flock, so none of the hens has had experience or watched it being done). It had gotten cold, and on one of my many visits to the coop and her crate, I found chilled chicks sitting alone. So, remembering that with MHP you sometimes have to pick up a chick and place it under MHP and hold it there till it understands that is safety, so I did the same thing with the hen. It only took a few gestures like that and the hen's instinct kicked in. All has been well, she's great and tons of fun to watch.

In terms of when the chicks start exploring out the pop door, which was a question for me with MHP, at exactly 2 weeks of age the hen started bringing the chicks outside the coop for short periods, and now spends hours a day outside with them in sheltered areas, teaching them what chickens do.

Anyway, I wanted to share what I've learned relative to MHP. And I thank all who helped me provide what the hen needed for a very successful hatch (8 of 10 eggs live, 1 partial/failed hatch and 1 quitter).

 

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