Mama Heating Pad in the Brooder (Picture Heavy) - UPDATE

[aart]

Quote: The source of heat really doesn't matter....it's the ambient temperatures they are exposed when outside the heat source that triggers faster feather growth and shortens the time they need the heat source. I keep the heat as low as possible, based on behavior, for them to remain healthy and active.
They are usually fully feathered, head are last to grow in by 3-4 weeks.

 

[COChix]

The source of heat really doesn't matter....it's the ambient temperatures they are exposed when outside the heat source that triggers faster feather growth and shortens the time they need the heat source.  I keep the heat as low as possible, based on behavior, for them to remain healthy and active.
They are usually fully feathered, head are last to grow in by 3-4 weeks.

Great to know the why behind the feathering out faster. Makes since if they were with mama they would be out and about right away. I noticed this group feathered out quickly right after switching them to the MHP, compared to our their parents we had a year ago. The laying flock was raised with a heat lamp. I didn't know as much as I know about natural chicken keeping thanks to many folks on here and threads like this one.

 

[katbriar]

Blooie- I seem to recall your waterer is a bucket with horizontal water nipples. I'm switching from vertical to horizontal nipples and trying to figure out how high to put it.

My search for instructions keeps leading me to heights for vertical nipple waterers and I'm thinking that would be too high since they drink with their head up under the vertical nipple but would need to approach the horizontal ones more "straight on" at beak to eye height.

What do you think? What worked best for your birds?

BTW - I have a mixed flock. Easter eggers, delawares, barred rocks, and, welsummers.

Thanks!

 

[aart]

Blooie- I seem to recall your waterer is a bucket with horizontal water nipples. I'm switching from vertical to horizontal nipples and trying to figure out how high to put it.

My search for instructions keeps leading me to heights for vertical nipple waterers and I'm thinking that would be too high since they drink with their head up under the vertical nipple but would need to approach the horizontal ones more "straight on" at beak to eye height.

What do you think? What worked best for your birds?

BTW - I have a mixed flock. Easter eggers, delawares, barred rocks, and, welsummers.

Thanks!

I'm not Blooie...but...I use HN's too and put them head high, better a little lower than too high.

This is my new favorite, hanger makes for easy location and have 2 bottles for swap out if needed:

https://www.backyardchickens.com/a/2-nipple-quart-water-bottle-holder

This worked great too...for the real broody mama and her hatchlings:
Put jar caps under bottle adjust height, had 2 bottles to swap out cause it was freezing temps.

 

[katbriar]

Nice set up aart. I like how stable the waterers look but also how easy it is to swap out. Thanks for the advice!

 

[COChix]

I'm not Blooie...but...I use HN's too and put them head high, better a little lower than too high. This is my new favorite, hanger makes for easy location and have 2 bottles for swap out if needed: https://www.backyardchickens.com/a/2-nipple-quart-water-bottle-holder This worked great too...for the real broody mama and her hatchlings: Put jar caps under bottle adjust height, had 2 bottles to swap out cause it was freezing temps.

Thanks for a few ideas, I have our littles on the HN system already, but was wanting to set up a nice water station for the broody and chicks. I have a few ideas now.

 

[aart]

Nice set up aart. I like how stable the waterers look but also how easy it is to swap out. Thanks for the advice!

Thanks for a few ideas, I have our littles on the HN system already, but was wanting to set up a nice water station for the broody and chicks. I have a few ideas now.

One key thing I do with the HN's is use a smaller drill bit (5/16 instead of 3/8" diameter) for a hole then only thread it in about halfway,
this leaves it able to slide into the other container with the slot on the broody nest and also to have the nipple hold up the bottle on a wire cage.
I'll take some pics of that and post them later.

ETA: HN only partially threaded in, is water tight and strong enough to hold weight of 32oz of water.


Slips over wire on crate


Small wire wrapped around bottle and crate wire holds it near top.
And a feeder held with a piece of unistrap.
Both these can be filled from outside crate with out removing bottles.
Have used these from various confinement reasons from chicks to pre-slaughter.

 

[BarredCometLaced]

How many chicks are coming? You might consider placing your system directly in the coop or run after the first week. Your chicks will quickly become very active and will require a lot more space.

You can achieve more useable space by hanging your water and feeder. This tells you how. https://www.backyardchickens.com/t/957712/how-to-hang-a-chick-water-bottle

We are expecting 7 little ones on Thursday! They will hopefully be out into their run as soon as possible. Nifty post about the waterer, thanks!

Quote:

We are planning on moving the crate out as soon as they are comfortable

This is the frame, made out of recycled greenhouse shelving.


The heating pad is draped on top, with the end coming off the back. Would it be better if the heating pad were completaly on the frame? I figured it would be nice to allow the chicks to contact the pad if they need that extra heat. Is that a no-no? If it is, it is an easy enough fix.


Towel draped on top, we have some Glad press-seal that I will cover it with.



Any suggestions? I am open to any and all as I am new to this method!
Thank you

 

[Blooie]

Well, I think I would turn the pad so that it drapes down over the sides of the frame. (Neat frame, by the way!) That way heat is kept inside the cave and they have more places to come into contact with it, especially during those first critical days when they like that heat right at their bodies. You will likely find that changing it that way gives a space in the front where there is no heating pad - a gap in coverage, as it were. That's fine - they like having that "cool zone" so they can peek out if they get a little warm, and if they get curious but don't want to leave the cave completely. If you look at the pictures of mine on the first page, you can see that cool zone right at the front. It's hard to tell from your photos - is the frame a little lower in the back than in front? If it is that's perfect!

So looking forward to seeing your chicks!!! Can't ever get enough of "baby pictures"!

 

[COChix]

One key thing I do with the HN's is use a smaller drill bit (5/16 instead of 3/8" diameter) for a hole then only thread it in about halfway, this leaves it able to slide into the other container with the slot on the broody nest and also to have the nipple hold up the bottle on a wire cage. I'll take some pics of that and post them later. ETA: HN only partially threaded in, is water tight and strong enough to hold weight of 32oz of water. Slips over wire on crate Small wire wrapped around bottle and crate wire holds it near top. And a feeder held with a piece of unistrap. Both these can be filled from outside crate with out removing bottles. Have used these from various confinement reasons from chicks to pre-slaughter.

All great ideas and thanks on the tips, here is what I made originally for the babies in their tub brooder which last about 1 1/2 weeks then they exploded on growth. I now have them in a small coop with nest boxes boarded up and on a two gallon bucket.

I was thinking of coming with a way to fasten about a coke bottle size water container maybe a couple to the sides of her brooding spot. I was thinking with a hose clamp attached to wood siding. Still need to figure out. Oh and thanks for the tips on the drill bits. I have definitely been varying the thickness of drill bit based on which plastic I am using.

We are planning on moving the crate out as soon as they are comfortable This is the frame, made out of recycled greenhouse shelving. [COLOR=B42000] [/COLOR] The heating pad is draped on top, with the end coming off the back. Would it be better if the heating pad were completaly on the frame? I figured it would be nice to allow the chicks to contact the pad if they need that extra heat. Is that a no-no? If it is, it is an easy enough fix. [COLOR=B42000] [/COLOR] Towel draped on top, we have some Glad press-seal that I will cover it with. [COLOR=B42000] [/COLOR] Any suggestions? I am open to any and all as I am new to this method! Thank you

Nice shelf, love how it slants. I still messing with mine, they keep knocking it around and it gets knocked off its risers. I am bound to find what I need in the property that can make it work.