Michigan Thread - all are welcome!

[tdhenson86]

Quote:
x2!

 

[tdhenson86]

Quote:
We have those growing wild all over out my way. Never thought to dig one up and put it in my chicken pen to keep hawks away.

 

[RaZ]

Copied from http://mnfi.anr.msu.edu/invasive-species/InvasivePlantsFieldGuide.pdf


Multiflora Rose Rosa multiflora Habit: Deciduous, dense, perennial shrub growing up to 5 m (16 ft) tall and 3-4 m (9-23 ft) wide, with long, slender, arching branches. Leaves: Alternate, pinnately compound with 5-11 leaflets; leaflets 2.5 cm (1 in) long and finely toothed; base of leaf with a finely fringed stipule. Stems/bark: Green-reddish, arching, with stout, recurved thorns. Flowers: Numerous, white or slightly pink, five-petaled; up to 4 cm (1.5 in) wide; arranged in a panicle; bloom May-June. Fruits/seeds: Fruits are small, clustered, hard, smooth, red rose hips that appear in September-October and last into winter; seeds yellowish and dispersed by birds and mammals, remain viable for 10 to 20 years. Habitat: Found along roadsides, pastures, disturbed areas, forests and streambanks; tolerates a variety of soil conditions; prefers open, well-drained sites. Reproduction: By seed; also by horizontal stems that root at the node and shoots that root at the tips. Similar species: Native swamp rose (Rosa palustris) has broadbased recurved thorns but like all native roses, it has pink flowers and does not have fringed stipules. Comments: Introduced from Japan and Korea in the 1800s; later promoted to control soil erosion, as a living fence and for wildlife food and cover until its invasive qualities became apparent; vulnerable to Japanese beetles and a number of other pests and diseases. Monitoring & rapid response: Monitor paths, edges and open areas in late spring while flowering. Dig out small plants and remove all roots; cutting or mowing several times throughout the growing season for several years may reduce populations; treat cut stems with herbicide to prevent resprouting. Basal bark treatment effective—spray bottom 18 inches of all stems. Foliar herbicide treatment effective where few natives are present. In fire-adapted communities where good fuel is present, prescribed fire top kills well and facilitates follow-up with foliar herbicide treatment; repeated late spring fires reduce population if sufficient fuel is present.

You could use raspberry as an alternative. It's fun to watch the chickens jump up for the berries.

 

[snowflake]

wild roses are a pain in the B-hind wild raspberries are almost as bad, the chickens do love them though. and booth work well for hawk protection. I had a bunch cut back in the yard, a hawk landed and a hen and her chick climbed under the briers and that hawk stood there not sure he wanted to venture in. Which gave me time to run out and chase him off

Question about Ivermectin seems to me I used to put it on the bird, behind the neck, rather then in the beak does any one use this on the skin? last 2 times I used fenbendazole so it is time for a change. I have used it before, but the last article I read said to dilute and give in the mouth?? I have the pour on, don't know if that makes a difference

 

[tdhenson86]

wild roses are a pain in the B-hind wild raspberries are almost as bad, the chickens do love them though. and booth work well for hawk protection. I had a bunch cut back in the yard, a hawk landed and a hen and her chick climbed under the briers and that hawk stood there not sure he wanted to venture in. Which gave me time to run out and chase him off

Question about Ivermectin seems to me I used to put it on the bird, behind the neck, rather then in the beak does any one use this on the skin? last 2 times I used fenbendazole so it is time for a change. I have used it before, but the last article I read said to dilute and give in the mouth?? I have the pour on, don't know if that makes a difference

Personally, I drip about 5 drops for an adult large fowl bird on them. I try to do about 2 under each wing and one on the neck. I also try to get it on the skin. That's just what I do, but I don't know about others.

 

[Folly's place]

I use the 1% Ivermectin, and figure about 1 ml. per 80 lbs body weight. I either give it in the mouth, or on the skin over the shoulders. Mary

 

[aart]

Quote:

I use the 1% Ivermectin, and figure about 1 ml. per 80 lbs body weight. I either give it in the mouth, or on the skin over the shoulders. Mary

Y'all following any withdrawal times for eggs and/or meat using Ivermectin and/or Fenbendazole?
Is this OTC or vet suggested? Packaging info?

 

[JackieandChicks]

I use the 1% Ivermectin, and figure about 1 ml. per 80 lbs body weight. I either give it in the mouth, or on the skin over the shoulders. Mary

That's one big chicken!

 

[1muttsfan]

Ivermectin is no longer effective against some of the major internal parasites of chickens. It's use in chickens is extralabel, so there is no established withdrawal time.

Valbazen is a very effective dewormer. Give 1cc to standard form, 1/2 cc to bantams. Repeat in 10 days. Eggs must be discarded for 14 days following treatment.

Thanks Aart corrected withdrawal - fingers have a mind of their own! I do use a higher dose, working alone in the dark I know some gets spit out.

 

[aart]

Ivermectin is no longer effective against some of the major internal parasites of chickens. It's use in chickens is extralabel, so there is no established withdrawal time.

Valbazen is a very effective dewormer. Give 1cc to standard form, 1/2 cc to bantams. Repeat in 10 days. Eggs must be discarded for 10 days following treatment.

Maybe that's why this vet gave this advise:
Ivermectin (any dose) -8 week withdrawal
Fenbendazole (Safe Guard) (10mg/kg x3 days) -17days

Also off label:
Albendazole (Valbazen) -14days

All withdrawals start after the last dose.