Michigan Thread - all are welcome!

I would say a box grader and a few loads of driveway gravel. Like my drive yours has sunk below the level of the surrounding ground and needs to be raised up a little. Right now water runs down the drive, instead of off to the sides. Box graders have teeth that dig down and loosen the top layer, but they can be adjusted to depth. It will not damage the base layers, and would turn everything over and loosen the grass so that it could be raked away. Many excavations contractors have that kind of equipment, or if you have a neighbor farmer with a tractor they might. The grader I use belongs to a neighbor who loans it out to me every year or two. Looking at my drive it may be next year.
 
Like my drive yours has sunk below the level of the surrounding ground and needs to be raised up a little.
I think it's mostly just the opposite, the dirt has built up on top of the gravel and stuff is now growing there, catching even more dirt that flows down the drive from the road.
Granted, some gravel has been displaced/compacted and could probably use some addition.....but man, if they don't do it right it'll all wash right down into my garage, there's about an 8 foot drop from road to garage.
Have started actively looking for local recommendations....nervous.:hmm
 
Once you remove the grass roots (it's amazing how much space they take up) and overlying soil you will find that the gravel has been "squished" out to the sides a little each time the tires rolls over it. You can see it on the shot where the drive goes over the hill.
 
I think it's mostly just the opposite, the dirt has built up on top of the gravel and stuff is now growing there, catching even more dirt that flows down the drive from the road.
Granted, some gravel has been displaced/compacted and could probably use some addition.....but man, if they don't do it right it'll all wash right down into my garage, there's about an 8 foot drop from road to garage.
Have started actively looking for local recommendations....nervous.:hmm
The driveway to my garage sloped with about a six foot drop. I used 23A gravel and it hasn't lost a single pebble, It is packed so well that even a loaded cement mixer and the truss truck haven't put a dent in it.
Something to consider when asking for quotes.

Also if you are concerned about water and debris washing down into your garage, think about installing a drain channel or a diverting trench.

Good luck.
 
The driveway to my garage sloped with about a six foot drop. I used 23A gravel and it hasn't lost a single pebble, It is packed so well that even a loaded cement mixer and the truss truck haven't put a dent in it.
Something to consider when asking for quotes.

Also if you are concerned about water and debris washing down into your garage, think about installing a drain channel or a diverting trench.

Good luck.
Good to know about the 23A...did you apply it yourself?
....and didn't you roll it after laying down the gravel?

90% of the 8' drop is in the first 50' of 100' from road the garage. I have dealt with flooding garage for 20 years, have a swale dug off apron that works pretty well unless we get more than a couple inches an hour.

Luckily the garage floor is an inch or so above the apron, and the house(garage is under house-walkout) is a foot above, and the garage doors seal fairly well at bottom, with some (rag rigging), but neither apron or swale has much slope, so...sometimes it is all overcome. I have a good trash pump tho that goes into the drain(that is saturated) in garage..tho garage floor is not well sloped to drain anyway. Everything stored in garage along walls is up on pallets...which need to be remove and replaced after the deluges this year...3 times in a week. BlatheringOver, thanks for 'listening', need lunch now.
 
If you build your driveway up so that there is a crown at the center (it only needs to be slightly above the sides) the water will run off to the sides instead of down the driveway toward the garage. My drive develops little rivulets in the spring on each side where the tire tracks are. This is not ideal.
 
Good to know about the 23A...did you apply it yourself?
....and didn't you roll it after laying down the gravel?

90% of the 8' drop is in the first 50' of 100' from road the garage. I have dealt with flooding garage for 20 years, have a swale dug off apron that works pretty well unless we get more than a couple inches an hour.
They stone guy did the grading with a skid steer on mine. That was before I got the tractor. But I did roll it with the lawn tractor and roller. My roller is only 900 pounds but it did the job pretty well.

My neighbor got the same 23A gravel last week and I did the grading and rolling. I'll have to get a picture of it.
 
If you build your driveway up so that there is a crown at the center (it only needs to be slightly above the sides) the water will run off to the sides instead of down the driveway toward the garage. My drive develops little rivulets in the spring on each side where the tire tracks are. This is not ideal.
Can't crown it as one side is uphill then a retaining wall that ends at house foundation on same side...they might be able to slant it slightly to the lower side.
 
Can't crown it as one side is uphill then a retaining wall that ends at house foundation on same side...they might be able to slant it slightly to the lower side.
That should be no problem for any experienced crew. Heck, if I could do with my rig then "real" crews would have no problem. ;)

I was working the tractor all afternoon. The circular driveway and what will be a paver walkway from the porch to the garage. So many rocks in the way. Some as big as bowling balls. Not to mention the tree roots near the surface. It looks like the walk will have to be higher than grade so as not to disturb the tree roots. It's going to be a challenge for sure.
 

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