Missing Feathers and Not Laying

[ChattyChickens4Life]

We have 6 chickens - 2 Silkies and 4 EEs. We had noticed that all 4 EEs were missing feathers around their vents (some more than others) and also around the base of their tail feathers. Sometimes there was blood, but other than that there didn't seem to be any signs of irritation. We had pretty much ignored it because they all ate, drank, layed, and played around fine. However recently, egg production has severely decreased. When we would usually get 3 or 4 eggs a day from them, we are now only get 1 or maybe 2. Other than that, they all have high energy, eat well and drink plenty. They get treats such as lettuce, mealworms, tomatoes, strawberries, and cracked corn. They usually have access to oyster shells as well. Any ideas? Thanks so much!

 

[EggSighted4Life]

Age of chickens please? And your location...

Molting, mites, or decreased light are possibilities. Can you post pics?

You mention treats and oyster shell... what is their main feed?

 

[ChattyChickens4Life]

Age of chickens please? And your location...

Molting, mites, or dec reased light are possibilities. Can you post pics?

You mention treats and oyster shell... what is their main feed?

They are a little over a year old and we are in GA. I don’t think it’s molting because it’s been a while and I’ve knly noticed feather lost on their butts. I attached some photos of the worst ones. I’m not sure the brand of chicken feed they are on, however I do know it’s layer pellets. I’d love to hear what you think! Thank you!

 

[ChattyChickens4Life]

Here’s one of the worst ones

 

[Flockandfowl46]

I'm going to go with mites or lice...treat with permethrin it won't hurt to try...im on my phone so can't see too well but I think I see eggs

 

[ChattyChickens4Life]

I'm going to go with mites or lice...treat with permethrin it won't hurt to try...im on my phone so can't see too well but I think I see eggs

Thank you!

 

[ChattyChickens4Life]

How do you tre

I'm going to go with mites or lice...treat with permethrin it won't hurt to try...im on my phone so can't see too well but I think I see eggs

at using permethrin?

 

[Flockandfowl46]

Permethrin is often used to treat head lice and scabies in humans and the permethrin 10% spray can be used to treat hen houses, coops, and nest boxes and in extreme cases, chickens and other livestock and pets who may also be infested with mites, lice, ticks, or other parasites It is considered to have low toxicity levels to humans and animals while at the same time it is deadly to insects. One quart of Permethrin 10% makes approximately 25 gallons which makes it more affordable than some other methods. I make a dip for my chickens and it works very well. I use 1/16 cup of permethrin per 5 gallons of lukewarm water (not hot, not cold). I quickly dip each bird into the bucket being careful not to get the permethrin dip on their face. Then I pat the bird dry. I usually do this in the evening when the birds are roosting (that way I do not have to waste time catching them) and I do it on an evening when it is hot in the coop so the birds do not get chilled while drying. I also put some in a spray bottle and spray all areas where the birds reside, walls, floors, roosts, nestboxes, lawn, yard, runs, etc. I repeat this process every 3 to 4 months during warm weather. I do not do it in the winter as the cold keeps the pests away and I do not want the birds to get chilled.

 

[EggSighted4Life]

How do you treat using permethrin?

I also use and recommend a permethrin based spray... it is very effective, affordable, easy to use, safe, and requires no withdrawal time for eggs. It does come in a powder form but I don;t like breathing clouds of dust and think this is easier. I prefer the premixed instead of concentrate... Mixing and getting the solution correct can be a challenge, plus you have to have another application bottle, store the extra product and so on. Also, many suggest a garden type sprayer, which I bought and the concentrate... it puts out WAY too much product for animals IMO. Though that is nice if you are using it as a perimeter type spray. It also comes in other brands such as Martin's and others.

This bottle lasted me 2 years with 82+ birds, 2 large goats, and 3 medium dogs. It works on MANY parasites including mosquitoes. And it costed only $8! Usually located in the equine section... make sure you select something that doesn't have OTHER active ingredients also as they may effect chickens differently.

To treat... if you have to chase anybody, just wait until after dark and use a flashlight to take them off roost and treat. Keeping it dim so others stay in their place on roost. I cannot tell you how much I love my head lamp! A SMALL spritz just below the vent, under each wing pit, and to the back base of the head where it meets the neck... parting feathers so the spray hits skin at each location. Soaking the bird is NOT needed.

Most of these pests stay ON the birds... I will NOT treat my yard and other outdoor areas... I value bees and other things too much and my birds eat the bugs out there. I will spray under roosts and inside lay boxes. MAYBE inside perimeter of coop. It is supposed to have a 30 day residual, but usually suggested you treat again in 7-10 days to make sure you break the life cycle of anything that hatches. I also NEVER just treat, as resistance can become an issue and I want the product to work when I need it. So I treat ONLY as needed... checking monthly and if ANYONE gets treated they ALL do.

It is considered ineffective against scaly leg mites and depluming mites, the later of which is not that common and not likely your issue.

If you wish to try and accurately diagnose your pest see if this link helps...

https://the-chicken-chick.com/poultry-lice-and-mites-identification/

Since your girls are slowing down lay a bit... and may be approaching molt this coming season... in addition to other reasons I will share... I recommend switching to a grower (18% protein) or flock raiser (20% protein) with oyster shell on the side free choice for active layers.

I personally consider EE dual purpose and Silkies are very heavily feathered in addition to being broody often in my experience... (Also, even though bantam they good carcass size much more DP than other bantams I raise). Feathers are made of 90% protein and it's amino acids. Also >3% calcium (most layer is 4%+) fed LONG term to bird NOT in lay such as broody, molting, juveniles, or roosters... *can* (doesn't mean will) cause gout or even kidney failure... it is most likely in those who are predisposed genetically somehow. Also people who show chickens know more protein gives better quality, shinier, fuller feathers. And since I breed/hatch, studies show that 22% protein gave the best hatch rates... which says to me better nutrition in the eggs my family is consuming... otherwise, why the difference? One last thought on this subject... "layer" feed is often just a TAD cheaper than the others. I contend however that they are higher in oyster shell which is cheaper than protein. Since I am now buying oyster shell on the side at a much cheaper rate... I think the cost difference is a wash. In addition... I have also seen that my birds who do molt... seem to get through it easier and return to lay sooner... as they seem to have more reserves built in verses being fed layer which is the MINIMUM amount of protein for light bodied layers like leghorn to keep them in laying condition... I don't aim for minimums... and I never personally switch to layer.... I'm not saying it isn't good enough for those who use it though! It's a personal choice and this is just MY take on it according to my research and experience. By shopping around I can save a whopping $3 per bag on the same exact feed!

Sorry so long... hopefully you are still able to gather the info you need.

 

[ChattyChickens4Life]

I also use and recommend a permethrin based spray... it is very effective, affordable, easy to use, safe, and requires no withdrawal time for eggs. It does come in a powder form but I don;t like breathing clouds of dust and think this is easier. I prefer the premixed instead of concentrate... Mixing and getting the solution correct can be a challenge, plus you have to have another application bottle, store the extra product and so on. Also, many suggest a garden type sprayer, which I bought and the concentrate... it puts out WAY too much product for animals IMO. Though that is nice if you are using it as a perimeter type spray. It also comes in other brands such as Martin's and others.

This bottle lasted me 2 years with 82+ birds, 2 large goats, and 3 medium dogs. It works on MANY parasites including mosquitoes. And it costed only $8! Usually located in the equine section... make sure you select something that doesn't have OTHER active ingredients also as they may effect chickens differently.

To treat... if you have to chase anybody, just wait until after dark and use a flashlight to take them off roost and treat. Keeping it dim so others stay in their place on roost. I cannot tell you how much I love my head lamp! A SMALL spritz just below the vent, under each wing pit, and to the back base of the head where it meets the neck... parting feathers so the spray hits skin at each location. Soaking the bird is NOT needed.

Most of these pests stay ON the birds... I will NOT treat my yard and other outdoor areas... I value bees and other things too much and my birds eat the bugs out there. I will spray under roosts and inside lay boxes. MAYBE inside perimeter of coop. It is supposed to have a 30 day residual, but usually suggested you treat again in 7-10 days to make sure you break the life cycle of anything that hatches. I also NEVER just treat, as resistance can become an issue and I want the product to work when I need it. So I treat ONLY as needed... checking monthly and if ANYONE gets treated they ALL do.

It is considered ineffective against scaly leg mites and depluming mites, the later of which is not that common and not likely your issue.

If you wish to try and accurately diagnose your pest see if this link helps...

https://the-chicken-chick.com/poultry-lice-and-mites-identification/

Since your girls are slowing down lay a bit... and may be approaching molt this coming season... in addition to other reasons I will share... I recommend switching to a grower (18% protein) or flock raiser (20% protein) with oyster shell on the side free choice for active layers.

I personally consider EE dual purpose and Silkies are very heavily feathered in addition to being broody often in my experience... (Also, even though bantam they good carcass size much more DP than other bantams I raise). Feathers are made of 90% protein and it's amino acids. Also >3% calcium (most layer is 4%+) fed LONG term to bird NOT in lay such as broody, molting, juveniles, or roosters... *can* (doesn't mean will) cause gout or even kidney failure... it is most likely in those who are predisposed genetically somehow. Also people who show chickens know more protein gives better quality, shinier, fuller feathers. And since I breed/hatch, studies show that 22% protein gave the best hatch rates... which says to me better nutrition in the eggs my family is consuming... otherwise, why the difference? One last thought on this subject... "layer" feed is often just a TAD cheaper than the others. I contend however that they are higher in oyster shell which is cheaper than protein. Since I am now buying oyster shell on the side at a much cheaper rate... I think the cost difference is a wash. In addition... I have also seen that my birds who do molt... seem to get through it easier and return to lay sooner... as they seem to have more reserves built in verses being fed layer which is the MINIMUM amount of protein for light bodied layers like leghorn to keep them in laying condition... I don't aim for minimums... and I never personally switch to layer.... I'm not saying it isn't good enough for those who use it though! It's a personal choice and this is just MY take on it according to my research and experience. By shopping around I can save a whopping $3 per bag on the same exact feed!

Sorry so long... hopefully you are still able to gather the info you need.

This was so helpful! Thank you! We will definitely go and pick up some of the spray and hopefully this will help. I'll look into the feed situation as well. I will let you know how it goes! Thanks again!