Mites ruin everything!

I don't think mites leave eggs. That is probably lice. Either way you can kill them with seven dust. Also you can dissolve the egg casings with unrefined coconut oil. Liquify it slightly.
sharon
 
Quote:
Mites do leave eggs, they hatch in 7-10 days based on the actual mite responsible. Permethrin leaves an oil on teh feather and helps. the Flea and Tick Shampoo has a residual effect that will help kill anything that might hatch.
They could very well be Lice or both, lice are much larger and will inhabit most of the bird.
Another advantage to the dipping is keeping moisture content higher in teh feather keeping it getting as brittle. here is a nice little article compiled from several reputable sources that will help you identify what you have and how to treat it.

External Parasites:
As with internal parasites, external parasites such as mites, lice, fleas, and ticks can easily infect your poultry whether they are kept inside and well confined or if kept outside. The most common sources of infestations are wild birds, as they often carry mites, lice and fleas. Once again the best course of treatment is attempted prevention. Prevention can be through bathing with a flea, tick, and mite shampoo or dipping and spraying with common insecticides, or treatment with topical agents such as ivermectin or frontline. There are as many solutions as there are individuals who raise poultry.

Poultry Mites
All classes of poultry are susceptible to mites, some of which are blood-suckers, while others burrow into the skin or live on or in the feathers. Others occur in the air passages and in the lungs, liver and other internal organs. Poultry mites often cause retarded growth, reduced egg production, lowered vitality, damaged plumage and even death. Much of the injury, consisting of constant irritation and loss of blood, is not apparent without careful examination.

Northern Fowl Mite (Ornithonyssus sylviarum) which is a frequent and serious pest of chickens. Heavy infestations result in poor condition of the birds and lower egg production, as well as a scabby skin condition. The mite remains on the bird and does more damage than any other species of mite. The mite does not leave the host bird, as do many species of mites, and can be observed on birds in large numbers. It prefers the feathers below the vent and around the tail, but can be found on all parts of the body. The mite is extremely small.
The female northern fowl mite lays eggs on feathers where the young mites complete their development without leaving the host. Since they remain on the fowl most of the time, treatment of the birds is necessary to destroy the mites.

Common Chicken Mite (Dermanyssus gallinae) is the most common mite found on all types of poultry. It is a blood-sucker, and when present in large numbers, loss of blood and irritation may be sufficient to cause anemia. Egg production is seriously reduced.
This mite feeds at night, and usually remains hidden in cracks and crevices during the day. It attacks birds at night while they are on the roost. In heavy infestations, some mites may remain on the birds during the day. About a day after feeding, the female lays eggs in cracks and crevices of the house. The eggs hatch and the mites develop into adults within about a week. During cold weather, the cycle is slower. A poultry house remains infested four to five months after birds are removed.
Since the mite feeds on wild birds, these birds may be responsible for spreading infestations. However, it is more likely that spread of the mite is promoted by using contaminated coops. Human carriers are also important. Since these mites do not stay on the birds during the day, apply treatments to houses and equipment as well as the birds.

Scaly-Leg Mite (Knemidocoptes mutans) lives under the scales on feet and legs of poultry. It also may attach to the comb and wattles. It causes a thickening of scales on the feet and legs that gives the impression that the scales are protruding directly outward, rather that laying flat on the limb. It spends its entire life cycle on the birds and spreads mainly by direct contact.

Depluming Mite (Knemidocoptes laevis, variety gallinae) causes severe irritation by burrowing into the skin near the bases of feathers and frequently causes feathers to be pulled out or broken. The mite is barely visible to the naked eye and can be found in follicles at the base of the feathers. The mites crawl around the birds at times, spreading from bird to bird.

Treatment:
The most effective treatment for all mite species is a regular inspection and spraying program of both the birds and their premises. An appropriate solution of permethrin, when sprayed on the birds, or dipping will eliminate all mites that infest the bird. Bathing a bird with a shampoo containing permethrin is also very effective. The spraying of all facilities will ensure that any mites hiding in cracks and crevices will be destroyed. The treatment should be repeated on a one to two month schedule or whenever populations of the mites are detected.

Poultry Lice
The primary effects of lice on their hosts are the irritations they cause. The birds become restless and do not feed or sleep well. They may injure themselves or damage their feathers by pecking or scratching areas irritated by lice. Body weight and egg production may drop.
All lice infecting poultry and birds are the chewing type. Mites may be confused with lice, but mites suck blood. In general, each species of lice is confined to a particular kind of poultry, although some may pass from one kind to another when birds are closely associated. Chickens usually are infested with one or more of seven different species.
All species of poultry lice have certain common habits. All live continuously on feathered hosts and soon die if removed. The eggs are attached to the feathers. Young lice resemble adults except in color and size. Lice differ in preferred locations on the host, and these preferences have given rise to the common names applied to various species.
In general, the incubation period of lice eggs is four to seven days, and development of the lice between hatching and the adult stage requires about twenty-one days. Mating takes place on the fowl, and egg laying begins two to three days after lice mature. The number of eggs probably ranges from fifty to three-hundred per female louse.

Head Louse (Cuclotogaster heterographa) is found mainly on the head, although it occurs occasionally on the neck and elsewhere. Is usually located near the skin in the down or at the base of the feathers on the top and back of the head and beneath the beak. In fact, the head of the louse often is found so close to the skin that poultrymen may think it is attached to the skin or is sucking blood. Although it does not suck blood, the head louse is very irritating and ranks first among lice as a pest of young chickens. Heavily infested chicks soon become droopy and weak and may die before they are a month old. When the chickens become fairly well feathered, head lice decrease but may increase again when the fowls reach maturity.
This louse is oblong, grayish and about 1/10-inch long. The pearly-white eggs are attached singly to the down or at the base of the small feathers on the head. They hatch within five days into minute, pale, translucent lice resembling adults in shape.

Body Louse (Menacanthus stramineus) of chickens prefers to stay on the skin rather than on the feathers. It chooses parts of the body that are not densely feathered, such as the area below the vent. In heavy infestations, it may be found on the breast, under the wings and on other parts of the body, including the head.
When the feathers are parted, straw-colored body lice may be seen running rapidly on the skin in search of cover. Eggs are deposited in clusters near the base of small feathers, particularly below the vent, or in young fowls, frequently on the head or throat. Eggs hatch in about a week and lice reach maturity within twenty days.
This is the most common louse infesting grown chickens. When present in large numbers, the skin is irritated greatly and scabs may result, especially below the vent.

Shaft Louse or small body louse (Menopon gallinae) is similar in appearance to the body louse, but smaller. It has a habit of resting on the body feather shafts of chickens where it may be seen running rapidly toward the body when feathers are parted suddenly. Sometimes as many as a dozen lice may be seen scurrying down a feather shaft.
Since the shaft louse apparently feeds on parts of the feathers, it is found in limited numbers. It does not infest young birds until they become well feathered.

Treatment:
The same control measures used to eliminate mite populations is effective for treating lice. It is more important to apply the insecticides directly to the bird's body rather than the premises.

Fowl Tick (Blue Bug)
The Fowl Tick (Argas persicus) may be a serious parasite of poultry if it becomes numerous in poultry houses or on poultry ranges. The tick is a blood-sucker, and when present in large numbers it results in weakened birds, reduced egg production, emaciation and even death. The fowl tick is found throughout most of the South and is extremely hardy. Ticks have been kept alive without food for more than three years. The ticks will feed on all fowl.
Fowl ticks spend most of their lives in cracks and hiding places, emerging at night to take a blood meal. Mating takes place in the hiding areas. A few days after feeding, the female lays a batch of eggs. In warm weather the eggs hatch within fourteen days. In cold weather they may take up to three months to hatch. Larvae that hatch from the eggs crawl around until they find a host fowl. They remain attached to the birds for three to ten days. After leaving the birds they find hiding places and molt before seeking another blood meal. This is followed by additional moltings and blood meals.

Treatment:
Ticks are difficult to eradicate and methods employed must be performed carefully. It is not necessary to treat the birds, but houses and surrounding areas must be treated thoroughly.

Chiggers, Red Bugs or Harvest Mites
These pests (Trombicula splendens, Trombicula alfreddugesi, and Neoschongastia americana americana) attack chickens and turkeys, as well as humans. Normally these small mites feed on wild animals, birds, snakes and lizards. Only the larvae of chiggers attack poultry or animals; adult mites feed on plants.
Larvae usually attach to the wings, breasts and necks of poultry. They inject a poisonous substance that sets up local irritation and itching. After a few days, the larvae become engorged and drop off. Injury to grown fowl may not be apparent or noticed until the bird is dressed; then the lesions are readily apparent and greatly reduce the carcass value. Young chickens or turkeys may become droopy, refuse to eat and die. Due to methods of raising poultry, turkeys are more affected than chickens.

Control of External Parasites
There are many insecticides available to help control external poultry parasites. The most effective broad spectrum insecticide is permethrin. Permethrin has a significant residual activity, thus making it ideal for treating facilities and equipment. At reduced concentrations it can be applied to the bird. Follow all manufacturers recommendations when using all insecticides.

Basic Control Plan For All Parasites in Poultry
For all parasites in poultry the most effective method of control is to treat the cause as well as the symptoms. Having a precise plan and establishing a routine is the key to success. Although your area of the country may require some additional steps the following is a basic plan for the control and treatment of all internal and external parasites found to infect poultry.

Environmental Control

• The importance of cleanliness cannot be stressed enough. Establish a regular cleaning routine.
• Consider these things when setting up pens.
• Use wire with small enough mesh to keep wild birds from coming into contact with your poultry, their feed or their water.
• Make door size large enough for you to be able to comfortably reach and clean inside.
• If pens are set up on ground, make them so they are easily movable to fresh ground.
• If indoors all metal cages vs. wood will give mites less places hide.
• Build enough pens to comfortably house the birds so you do not over crowd or mix age groups when growing them out.
• If birds are kept on litter, remove wet spots immediately.
• Spray equipment and pens with an approved insecticide every 6 weeks.
• Control rodent population. Rodent control baits are usually seen in 2 forms. These are pellets and bars. I use a product called Just One Bite. It is in bar form and will cut them about 1 inch long and place them in areas around my pens. They can be placed in a small box with a hole that is small enough for mice and rats to go in but poultry cannot get to it. These can be place in pens if desired.
• Never allow poultry to forage on freshly tilled ground where they may ingest earthworms or other insects that could be carrier hosts.
• Never overcrowd. Change litter when it gets too high of a content of fecal matter or when moving a group of birds out and bringing a new group into the pen.
• Always feed clean fresh feed and give clean fresh water daily. Clean water containers as needed (Usually weekly for me).
• During the molting stages of your birds be sure and remove feathers that your bird have dropped. Leaving these hang around is like putting out a vacancy sign up for mites. They will move in.


Treatment of Birds

• Handle every bird once a week to feel and inspect them for signs of parasite infestations. By knowing what your bird normally feels like, it could tip you off to an otherwise unnoticeable problem.
• My preferred method to remove internal parasites is using a water soluble product in their drinking water. Upon initial treatment repeating it in 10 days will rid them of any parasites that may have hatched from the eggs the first treatment did not get. After this initial treatment I usually set my routine to every 30 days. Upon application, never leave in drinking water more than one day so the next day provide clean fresh drinking water. Some parasites can build up immunity to certain drugs and it would be a good idea to have 2 different products and alternate them from application to application.
• AS mentioned in above section poultry wormers are usually effective for round worms only so by using a product like Ivermectin (either in a pour on or an oral formula) between the worming through their water can serve as a prevention for both internal and external parasites.
• For external parasites I will dip my birds every month, when weather allows, in a 5 gallon bucket with a solution of water and malithion 55%. I mix it 1 tablespoon to 5 gallons of water. Remember, I am using the 55% and it is concentrated so it does not take much and is economical to use. There are other products like permethrin that can be used. The reason I choose malithion is that I keep it around to rid my vegetable garden of pests and see no need to keep an extra chemical around when I can use the same thing. I also use it to spray pens mixing it at the same ratio as I do when I dip. If birds are molting I will dip them once a week. This serves as not only a external parasite control but the extra moisture really helps them put in nice plumage.
• Upon inspection of the bird, if lice or mites are noticed I will apply Adams flea and tick spray. Two pumps at the vent, one under each wing and one behind the neck at the base. I do this early in the day as I have birds that like to sleep with their head tucked under their wing. By doing it early I do not run the risk of birds being harmed by fumes when they go to roost.

Treatment of New Arrivals or Birds Returning From Shows

Most people will provide for a treatment plan or quarantine for new birds that are purchased to be added to a flock, however you should treat any bird returning from a show the same.
While at the show your birds were exposed to the conditions, bacteria, virus, fungus and parasites that may have existed on every bird the judge handled which may be hundreds. The following is a simple and cost effective method I use when either acquiring new brood stock or when returning from shows and has worked well for me.

Prepare two dip solutions; the first is a mix of water and oxine. Oxine is known to kill 99% of all bacteria, virus, and fungus it comes in contact with and will insure you are not introducing a pathogen into your flock.
The second dip I like to use is water and Adams shampoo or dip to bath the bird and rid it of any external parasites. You will want to repeat this treatment 7-10 days later and prior to re-introducing the bird to your flock to insure you have not introduced any external parasites.

Both of the products listed are very cost effective and a critical part in the care of your entire flock. One infected bird can be very costly and time consuming to rectify, prevention is the best cure.
Keep in mind no one treatment works for everyone or for every region and problem but we will all deal with both internal and external parasites to some degree in our dealing with poultry. No one is immune to the effects or infestations of parasites the best we can do is try to minimize the effect.

Education

Contact your local Ag Extension and or college and educate yourself on the more common parasites in your area. It will vary with the section of the country you live in. The internet is also a good source to research these things. Remember that doing all this does not guarantee full time 100% parasite free flock but will keep your birds for the most part from suffering substantial health issues as a result of parasite infestations.
 

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