Mixed ages... mixed feed?

[fishheadken]

Okay.... so I can’t use the layer feed for like another 4-5 months. I was so excited of the thought of eggs I bought it already. . The chicks won’t get into the oyster shells if I put it in a hanging feeder on the side of the run? I’m not sure if there gruel a different from organic feed or not but I thought it wouldn’t hurt to try it out with our first go at raising chicks. I’m really don’t think you ever get you $$$ back but it fun to watch the chicks grow and the kids seem to love them!

 

[newchickenmom33]

Breed is important to feeding needs.

You have commercial layers, although the Orpington, being dual purpose, will mature more slowly than the production reds (your feed store RIR) and production Barred Rocks, you still have feed store varieties which have been bred and selected for egg production.

I personally would not give any feed over 18% to at most 20% protein chick starter. 22% is for meat birds, and above that game birds or turkeys. You can harm growth by adding too much protein. The muscles can outstrip joints and bones causing malformations. 22% is meant for fast growing meat birds who need to add a lot of meat quickly. Game bird feed fed continually is not healthy for most commercial layer types, which you have. Show birds and heritage types may do better with higher protein, but I do not recommend that for commercial layer breeds.

Medicated is amprolium based which slows the uptake of vitamin B. It literally starves the coccidia protozoa by not allowing it to metabolize B. Medicated feed has its place in areas with feed store chicks who have not developed an immunity to coccidia or transplants who do not have an immunity to your coccidia strain. It is meant to be fed for about 10 weeks until the bird is mature enough for their own immune system to take over. Medicated feed merely slows the development of coccidia in the gut to allow that to happen.

Medicated feed will not hurt older hens, and you do not need to pull eggs. In time, though, steady consumption of the medicated may cause declined levels of B in your hens.

Since your older birds are commercial layers types, they will need calcium sooner as their genetics are geared for egg production sooner. You can actually delay the start of laying by having low calcium for the production breeds.

Chicks won't eat the oyster shell, so that is one method of accommodating all ages. Put out 18% chick start and leave oyster shell out for free feed. The older birds will begin to eat the oyster shell while the younger birds will not. You will know when point of lay is around the corner as the young pullets will begin to guzzle the oyster shell.

When your younger birds (shall I assume they are commercial laying types too, similar to your older birds?), become about 14 weeks of age, you can switch everyone onto a good layer. Studies have shown that the commercial laying breeds do best for production when switched at about 14 to 16 weeks of age rather than waiting for actual laying.

My experiences.
LofMc

Thanks. That’s interesting I really thought I should wait until they lay to switch to layer feed. I picked up little feed bowls to leave grit and the oyster shells always available. I was concerned the chicks would eat it and get sick. The new baby chicks are all supposed to be RIR but one is not feathering as quickly as the other two so it may be a roo. When I was looking for chickens I just wanted consistent layers that would be friendly since we have children. I didn’t realize these were “commercial production chickens” Hmmm.

 

[Folly's place]

For eye candy and variety, look at 'feathersite' and check out Henderson's Chicken chart. There are so many interesting breeds of chickens! Don't confine your flock to production reds only; branch out and try other breeds.
For my flock of babies, pullets, hens, and roosters, I feed Flock Raiser, a 20% protein all-flock feed, with oyster shell on the side. It's always fresh where I shop (check the mill date on each bag of feed) and works for everyone. Much easier than having chick feed, layer, and grower.
Mary

 

[newchickenmom33]

Thanks! There are a TON of different breeds on that site. I’ll check it out more. We are at 8 birds and can only have up to 10 hens. I sometimes wonder why we added more chicks so early. Maybe next year we can add two more if all goes well.

 

[Folly's place]

"so many chickens, so little space!" That's my story! Plan to order different birds next spring, and enjoy!
Production reds tend to be feather picking overly 'pushy' birds, which can be a problem with some of the gentler breed types (like Salmon Favorelles). I no longer have production reds of any sort in my flock for that reason.
Still, do some dreaming, and order some others next year.
Mary

 

[newchickenmom33]

So far they are all friendly. There is only 1 15 week old RIR and the rest other 3 are 3 weeks old. We thought it would be good to have a more even number of like breeds. Our Orpington is the largest and seems to be the alpha but she’s the sweetest to us.

 

[Folly's place]

Speckled Sussex hens are very interactive; love them! EEs and French Marans for interesting egg colors, and various bird color patterns too. Wyandottes come in so many colors, and are very nice! Just a start...
Mary

 

[Shezadandy]

We've always got a mix of broody hens with chicks, weaned chicks of various ages, layers and then the aging ladies and the rooster(s)-- so we went with Flock Raiser with oyster shell offered separately. We also tend to feed treats (which generally are very low in protein) - so starting with the base feed at 20% gives me some latitude when adding scratch or things like watermelon to keep cool in the summer and so on. 16% is the bare minimum hens need to lay eggs, so if you're starting off with 16% layer feed - anything you add that's lower in protein can start to cost you in egg production, especially as the girls get older.

 

[bigz1983]

I was giving my hens a 18% protein egg layer feed with free choice oyster shells on the side in a dish. I was getting a lot of bubbles on my eggs and I read that the added calcium in egg layer feed 3.5-4.5% can cause egg bubbles. The added calcium in the egg layer feed also caused kidney failure in my rooster and he died recently.

So I switched them over to a 20% protein broiler finisher feed that's for actually meant for meat cornish cross broilers before slaughter. It has 2% more protein than egg layer and less calcium 1.5-2.5%. Its called "Armada Poultry feed" I get it from family farm and home. I just keep the dish of oyster shells out for the laying hens and this works great.

Well my eggs look much better now and I can give it my entire flock of mixed ages young chickens, roosters, old retired non laying hens and adult laying hens. Everyone gets one feed.

 

[newchickenmom33]

I was giving my hens a 18% protein egg layer feed with free choice oyster shells on the side in a dish. I was getting a lot of bubbles on my eggs and I read that the added calcium in egg layer feed 3.5-4.5% can cause egg bubbles. The added calcium in the egg layer feed also caused kidney failure in my rooster and he died recently.

So I switched them over to a 20% protein broiler finisher feed that's for actually meant for meat cornish cross broilers before slaughter. It has 2% more protein than egg layer and less calcium 1.5-2.5%. Its called "Armada Poultry feed" I get it from family farm and home. I just keep the dish of oyster shells out for the laying hens and this works great.

Well my eggs look much better now and I can give it my entire flock of mixed ages young chickens, roosters, old retired non laying hens and adult laying hens. Everyone gets one feed.

Sorry about the loss of your rooster. Do you mean the actual shells of the eggs had bubbles?

I’m getting mixed advice about when to switch to layer feed since my girls aren’t actually laying yet but it should be soon. The are currently eating organic grower feed and I just offered grit in a separate container which they don’t seem interested in yet.