Modified Hoop Coop Design Development

[Mixed flock enthusiast]

I bought a Grinding disk for metal.... If yours has teeth be very careful...

deb

Thanks - I know almost nothing about working with metal!!! This is what I bought? Next to my primitive drawing of the end pieces...

 

[aart]

I know almost nothing about working with metal!!! This is what I bought?

That's a typical cut off disc(never seen one with teeth).
Just be careful, start slowly, setup where the sparks won't set anything on fire.
Safety ...gloves shoes glasses pants.

 

[perchie.girl]

@Mixed flock enthusiast

baseball cap too incase a spark lands on your head... LOL... learned the hard way when I was working in the machine shop...

The sparks are pretty benign usually they immediately cool off. But err on the side of caution. Till you get familiar with the process. Its terribly dry here and mostly vegetation only grows where there are water sources... IF i had a concrete floor thats where I would work. The cooled sparks sweep up like sand

Good drawing by the way.. I am Like Aart.... a mechanical designer in CAD...

Many of my designs were handed to me from Engineers who had drawn it on a Napkin or post it note...

I am very impressed with you Coop design I have a span of about twenty four feet I need to cover with either netting or shade cloth for my chickens eventual run.

deb

 

[Mixed flock enthusiast]

Update on coop build: Cutting hog panels went well despite the mounds of sparks - thanks for the help! I’m finished enough to put keets inside, but it’s still a work in progress. I wanted a solid N wall due to cold winter storms, but I left the top open. Any ideas for a removable, clear window? Plexiglass? Attached how? Even with the S wall open, it’s hotter than I’d like, so I may put additional windows in that S wall as well. I also added two doors in case I want to split the coop for integration. Unfortunately, the N door is too wide, so it’s boarded up until I can plane it smaller, probably 1/4 inch. Any power tools that will make this job easier?

We used hog panels instead of cattle panels, and the resulting roosts were not quite the right height. However, I did indeed pick the maximum height (about 8.5-9 ft) that I’d want to work at. I’m including detail of T post and roost connections for comparison with @Victoria-nola method. I liked the rigidity of the T post connectors, but there was still considerable sway until the end panels were attached to the 4x4 posts set in concrete.

 

[perchie.girl]

Looking AAwesome....

My friend used to build horse housing out of Carports...

She used polycaronate panels for windows

https://www.greenhousemegastore.com/coverings/plastic-sheets/polycarbonate-sheets/

shop around but the ones that are honey combed are insulative and easy to install just a screw with a washer... Strong too

deb

 

[Mixed flock enthusiast]

Looking AAwesome....

My friend used to build horse housing out of Carports...

She used polycaronate panels for windows

https://www.greenhousemegastore.com/coverings/plastic-sheets/polycarbonate-sheets/

shop around but the ones that are honey combed are insulative and easy to install just a screw with a washer... Strong too

View attachment 1907087

deb

Great website - thanks! Any thoughts on how to make a window at the arch face that could be opened or removed? Also, looking for something to cover the jagged edge where hardwares cloth joins at the end wall so the tarp won’t be torn by the jagged wire?

 

[Molpet]

Great website - thanks! Any thoughts on how to make a window at the arch face that could be opened or removed? Also, looking for something to cover the jagged edge where hardwares cloth joins at the end wall so the tarp won’t be torn by the jagged wire?

Pipe insulation over the jagged wire. In my coop article is a Link to a permanent Hoop coop that used it

 

[perchie.girl]

Great website - thanks! Any thoughts on how to make a window at the arch face that could be opened or removed? Also, looking for something to cover the jagged edge where hardwares cloth joins at the end wall so the tarp won’t be torn by the jagged wire?

bend the wires back if you havent already... You can also use sheet metal edging trim...

Or a piece of old garden hose split then zip tied on...

If you get any wind there will be holes made by the wire. But my Tarps have lasted me on average two years. Pretty ratty when I take em down but mostly keep the birds cool and dry.

My coop was flat having an arch is awesome. Id have to sweep underneath and push the tarps up to get the water to run off.

deb

 

[aart]

That looks awesome!!

Unfortunately, the N door is too wide, so it’s boarded up until I can plane it smaller, probably 1/4 inch. Any power tools that will make this job easier?

If there aren't any screws in the way, circular saw might do the trick....would be tricky setting it up stable tho. Jig saw would be safer but take longer and might leave a wavy edge.

 

[Mixed flock enthusiast]

Pipe insulation over the jagged wire. In my coop article is a Link to a permanent Hoop coop that used it

Thanks! I like your hoop coops! The ridgeboard is nice too. Do you find them necessary for snow load? I though about adding one but in the end decided I’d sweep off snow... Bot that Oklahoma gets much but every once in a blue moon we do get a blizzard. I figured I’d have to be out their sweeping the other poultry houses anyway...