Moody Roo

[shy519]

Hello to all! I've purchased an Ayam Cermani/Easter Egger roo just about a week and a half ago. His name is Trent Reznor, he's just 4 months old, and simply the friendliest rooster I've seen! Though he may be friendly, he's got a bit of an attitude problem I haven't seen in our previous roosters. He comes when called and will happily jabber away with you, but the moment your hand approaches him he perceives it as a threat and will bite and bring your hand down to kick. He's left several blood blisters and scratches on my hands. Note that he doesn't always do this when he's reached for, which I find quite strange I've tried positive reinforcement when he's good, and negative reinforcement when he's bad. It's worked with our others when they got their spring hormone rush, but I can't seem to break this guy. Any tips? I'm concerned he may get worse and I can only imagine the damage when his spurs come in.

 

[EggSighted4Life]

Hi, welcome to BYC!

The friendly cockerels are the ones who are a problem for me and end up escalating.

At 4 months old, with that kind of attitude... just a matter of time before he attacks a dog, a kid, and eventually you when your back is turned. It's not always my answer... but this time sounds like freezer camp might be the best method of behavior modification.

Good luck, this is a passionate topic and I'm sure you will get lots of input from both the dreamers who think it's OK to put up with that kind of stuff and the realist (like me) who think life is too short and there are way too many good roos who could use a home to be fussing with one who will never get it.

I had one boy I really liked and he was so cool until that day he tried to grab a hen off my lap! It finally ended when after months of attacking when my back was turned, crowing at me obsessively, and stocking me through the fence pretending to do busy work when I noticed him. I got fed up and ended it. I wish I hadn't waited so long because I really liked him, he was a rare breed, intended for breeding, and beautiful. By the time I faced the reality, I was so annoyed that it took several months to get over it when other would randomly crow and such. It almost ruined me for roosters. Now I know... The peace that came afterwards could have been mine all along.

That was my first rooster experience and he was treated like friend that I thought could trust me. Turns out what he realized was that I wasn't a threat and he wanted to take me down. I tried all the "training" techniques they talk about. It didn't work that time and I'm not even kidding when I say... the meaner the roo, the sweeter the stew. The soup we had from him was delicious! It was a valuable lesson for me. And discernment comes much quicker now.

Good luck getting your boy to fall in line!

 

[Folly's place]

x2!!! Every word!!! My first rooster was a nasty little beast, and I too learned! He's not 'friendly', he's sizing you up, and deciding that he can take you on and win.
There are so many nice polite cockerels out there, and he's not one of them. Mary

 

[Zoomie]

I will chime in. When a cockerel comes near you he is not being friendly, he's showing domination behavior. It's important that he be able to dominate everything in the flock so that he can pass on his genes... that's what roosters are for. So the young cockerel starts out by getting close, pecking or maybe even biting, to see if he can dominate you. As he gets older and his hormones get stronger (in particular, in spring) he's going to get even worse.

If you keep your chickens in confined runs, where you don't enter, he might be OK to use in a breeding program or something. But if you need to go in with him, my feeling and experience tell me he's going to escalate this behavior and next thing you know he'll be jumping up and flogging you.

Really sorry about that.

 

[Lazy Farmer]

We raise roos for profit & freezer. I have a pack of them currently. Zero of them bites the hand that feeds them. Partially from a no fear of the birds and a zero tolerance for aggressiveness. That would like be asking me to stick him in the freezer first. Don't let the bird believe he is the alpha. The pecking order includes humans.

 

[EggSighted4Life]

If you keep your chickens in confined runs, where you don't enter, he might be OK to use in a breeding program or something.

Never breed a stupid roo, aggression can be hereditary...

The "or something" would be enchiladas!

 

[bobbi-j]

I agree that I would not keep this bird, but if you want to try to train that attitude out of him, here is a good post by a long-time BYC member who's opinion I trust:

I'm going to give you a clue on "rooster speak"....holding him down doesn't mean anything to him. If you'll watch how roosters interact between dominant ones and subordinate ones, there is rarely any, if ever, holding a bird down for a long time when there is an altercation. There is very quick flogging, gripping by the back of the head and flinging him away or getting him down and giving some savage pecking to the back of the head or neck. No holding him down and nothing else. That's a rooster on a hen maneuver, not rooster on rooster.

Because your rooster is attacking you, you are the subordinate in this picture. You are getting dominated by your bird simply because you are walking where a subordinate isn't supposed to be walking when a dominant is in the area. What you never see is a dominant rooster getting attacked by a subordinate rooster unless there is going to be a definite shift in power, at which time the sub will challenge the dom and win...or lose. So far you are losing and not even challenging.

If you want to win this battle, you must go on the offensive, not the defensive. He who attacks first, and is still claiming the area when the other guy leaves it, is the winner. Some people never have to go on the offensive because their movements in the coop are so decisive that they move and act like a dominant and a 2 ft. rooster is smart enough to recognize a dominant attitude and behavior...which is likely why he's never attacked your husband. Most men move more decisively than do women and children and they rarely step around a bird, but walk through them.

Carrying him around also doesn't mean anything to him...it just doesn't translate at all. His environment is that coop and run floor and that's where you need to speak to him, in a language he understands. Because they are quick on their feet and can evade you, you need a training tool like a long, limber, supple rod of some kind...cutting a nice switch from a shrub or tree that will lengthen your reach by 5 ft. really helps in this. Don't use a rake or broom because they are too clumsy and stiff and can put the hurts on the guy when you don't really mean to.

When you enter your coop, walk with decisive movements and walk directly towards your rooster. Move him away from the feeder and the rest of the flock and keep a slow, determined pressure on him until he leaves the coop. The stick will help you guide him. Then...wait patiently while he gets his bird mind around what just happened. He will try to come back in the coop...let him. When he gets a good bit into that coop, take your switch and give him a good smack on the fluffy feathers under his tail if you can aim it well. If you cannot, just smack the floor near him very hard and fast until he hops and runs and keep at it until he leaves the coop once again. Repeat this process until he is too wary to come back in the coop.

Feed your hens. When he tries to come to the feeder, you "attack" him with the switch...smack the wall by the pop door just as he tries to enter. If he makes it inside, pursue him with the stick either smacking the floor or tapping him on the back or the head until he leaves in a hurry. Make him stay outside while you sit there and enjoy watching your hens eat. Use the stick to keep him from the flock..just him. Don't worry about the hens running and getting excited when this is happening...they will get over it. This is for the future of your flock and your management of it.

When the hens have had a good tucker....leave the coop and let him come back in. Go out later and walk through that flock and use your legs to scatter birds if they get in your way...top roosters do not step to one side for any other bird in the flock. You shouldn't either. Take your stick and startle him with a smack on the floor next to him when he is least expecting it...make that bird jump and RUN. Make him so nervous around you that he is always looking over his shoulder and trying to get out of your way. THAT'S how he needs to be from now on in your lives together. Forget about pets or cuddles...this is a language and behavior he understands. You can hand feed him and such later...right now you need to establish that when you move, he moves...away. When you turn your back, he doesn't move towards you...ever.

Then test him...take your stick along, move around in the coop, bend over with your back turned to him, feed, water, etc....but keep one eye on that rooster. If he even makes one tiny step in your direction or in your "zone", go on the attack and run him clear on out of the coop. Then keep him out while everyone else is eating.

THAT'S how a dominant rooster treats a subordinate. They don't let them crow, mate or even eat in their space. If the subordinate knows his place and watches over his shoulder a lot, he may get to come and eat while the other rooster is at the feeder...but he doesn't ever relax if he knows what is good for him. At any given time the dominant will run him off of that feed and he knows it, so he eats with one eye toward the door. If he feels the need to crow, it's not usually where the dom can reach him...maybe across the yard.

If your rooster crows while you are there, move towards him and keep on the pressure until he stops. He doesn't get to crow while you are there. He can crow later...not while you are there.

It all sounds time consuming but it really isn't...shouldn't take more than minutes for each lesson and you can learn a lot as you go along. And it can be fun if you venture into it with the right attitude....this is rooster training that really works if you do it correctly. This can work on strange roosters, multiple roosters and even old roosters...they can all learn. You rule the coop...now act like it. Carrying is for babies...you have a full grown rooster on your hands, not a baby.

Now, keep in mind that when she suggests to "smack his fluffy behind", she is not advocating beating him with a stick. Just enough to startle him without hurting him. If this does not adjust his attitude, I think a long hot bath with some onions, carrots, celery and garlic would do the trick quite nicely.

 

[EggSighted4Life]

I also really enjoyed that clue in that @bobbi-j posted from another member, who I also trust and appreciate even if I don't always agree. @Beekissed is a valued member by many I'm sure. Haven't seen her lately and hope she is well.

That was essentially the technique I tried unsuccessfully. Though I know it works well for some. All birds are individuals for sure.

 

[shy519]

Thank you all for the wisdom! I greatly appreciate it