BuckeyeAmy69
Songster
@EggSighted4Life your profile indicates you live in Redwood Coast CA, do you get snow there?
Moving to Maine; What do I need to know
- Thread starter IamRainey
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IamRainey
Crowing
Ah! A pitched roof makes absolute sense! What do you guys think of a metal roof? I mean to shed snow.
Never been a fan of feathered legs. It probably isn't a fair opinion but they're always struck me as a little too precious and fussy.
We won't move the birds we have. It will be a few years before we actually make our move. When the time comes to sell, I'll offer our coop and flock with our present house. If the buyer isn't interested I'll rehome. Moving 3K miles with a flock of birds doesn't make sense to me. We once moved 3K miles out here with 3 cats in the cab of a rented truck. That was enough adventure for me when we were much younger and more apt to cope with crazy.
When the time comes we'll get settled, build the right coop and then get birds.
I presently live in the Los Angeles area. Our suburb in called Woodland HIlls. Not sure how that came out as "Redwood Coast".
I've only seen snow here twice in 40 years and that didn't last through a day. But my husband is from the Rochester area (MAJOR snow belt) and I'm from the Hudson Valley area of NYS (moderate snow). We've also lived through British Columbia winters (pretty moderate winters from ocean currents but still snowy). I've only known Maine in the summer but we're both pretty comfortable with the idea of real weather. In fact, we've been looking forward to having some again since the 70s.
Never been a fan of feathered legs. It probably isn't a fair opinion but they're always struck me as a little too precious and fussy.
We won't move the birds we have. It will be a few years before we actually make our move. When the time comes to sell, I'll offer our coop and flock with our present house. If the buyer isn't interested I'll rehome. Moving 3K miles with a flock of birds doesn't make sense to me. We once moved 3K miles out here with 3 cats in the cab of a rented truck. That was enough adventure for me when we were much younger and more apt to cope with crazy.
When the time comes we'll get settled, build the right coop and then get birds.
I presently live in the Los Angeles area. Our suburb in called Woodland HIlls. Not sure how that came out as "Redwood Coast".
I've only seen snow here twice in 40 years and that didn't last through a day. But my husband is from the Rochester area (MAJOR snow belt) and I'm from the Hudson Valley area of NYS (moderate snow). We've also lived through British Columbia winters (pretty moderate winters from ocean currents but still snowy). I've only known Maine in the summer but we're both pretty comfortable with the idea of real weather. In fact, we've been looking forward to having some again since the 70s.
BuckeyeAmy69
Songster
I was asking EggSighted4life, sorry to confuse you. His profile indicates the location I asked about.
I’ve never been a fan of feathered legs either, mostly because I have to deal with snow here and icy conditions.
I built my own coop and run. I have a metal roof on my coop and run and it works great. Snow will pile on top. I also have my coop insulated and I have electricity to heat a water base and a heat lamp (as needed on those below 0 degrees days).
You'd need metal roof if you expect snow to slide off....and it would have to be very steep.
Better to build your roof to handle the snow load than try to pitch it enough, IMO.
If you do use metal roofing be sure to install wood or foam board under it to avoid condensation dripping on the birds.
- Thread starter
- #16
IamRainey
Crowing
Valuable tips!!! Exactly the sort of information I'm trying to factor into our planning and our real estate search.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Yep, that location is correct. Surprisingly, I have seen snow, but no it isn't a significant amount and my temps rarely go below freezing at my current location. When I did live in California's version of snow country, I didn't keep poultry. But I did wear down jackets and sleep under down comforters.
Does that disqualify my information? Or discredit my intent to share good information I've learned through my interactions with folks in those type of areas, in order to help someone fully enjoy their adventure?
So many folks said you can't free range Silkies or let them out when it rains, you can't keep more than one rooster or they'll over mate your hens and fight to death, you can't keep bantams with large fowl, etc.. sometimes, wise advice.. other times important to realize we all have different tolerances. And Silkie did just fine with 60+ inches of rain per year and a place to stay dry when they desired. They free ranged just fine.. didn't lose any to predation or illness. People tend to repeat what they read.. Silkies are hardy in my experience. Point being, I guess I'm not sheeple and adventures await.
I don't prefer feather footed myself.. but gave them a fair shake in several breeds. The "possibility" of something happening (like ice forming) doesn't mean it will or that it will be an issue.. And I try and avoid fear mongering people into my preference. That's all, didn't mean to disagree with you on a personal level!
No relevance, but I'm a she. 
@Folly's place, do your d'uccles go out in the snow? Do you have the time or interest in sharing any tips in this thread? TIA
Sweet, extra tips help us all find them easier in fewer threads!
Well, all of our coops have done great through winter and we actually lose less birds in the cold months than we do in our warm months. We have one coop that's an 8x10 metal shed with some 2x4 and 2x3 reinforcements, and cube shelving put in for nesting boxes, as well as 2 chest freezers for our grain storage. The birds in this coop free-range and do just fine, although we set up a heat lamp in their coop for a few hours in the morning and a few hours at night to keep them laying(whatever you do, don't leave it on all night, our birds have a tendency to party all night when we do that). No, the metal roof does not help snow slide off, but it is at a very small slant. Another coop is approximately 8x5, is all wooden with a shingled roof, and plastic siding. The roof is much more sloped than the metal coop, but being shingled it doesn't let snow slide off of it either. This one does not get a heat lamp because it's wooden and rather small. Then we have a wooden coop with a clear plastic roof that covers the run and the coop, and it's built in a lean-to style. The coop is off the ground by about a foot(I don't recommend unless you block off that part of the run, even the little kids are struggling to climb under there to get stray eggs now). There is plenty of ventilation from the top as there are multiple chicken wire covered windows. The next coop is approximately 10x10 and is made entirely of wood, the siding being plywood, the roof made of a layer of plywood covered in a tarp. This is our worst coop, and it has very little ventilation, but it certainly keeps the birds warm in the winter. The only reason we have this one is that we were in a rush to get birds into a coop for winter, a family friend was selling it for $150, gave it to us for $100 and it had close to $80 worth of plastic nesting boxes in it... This is never the way to go though... We all hate that coop and just haven't gotten a new one for those birds yet. For our guinea hens, we have a wooden outhouse, with a metal roof which works great since it allows them to stretch their wings. They aren't allowed out of their pen because they have a tendency to fly off and disappear, or to freeze their feet off in snow banks(we had one named stubs for a while, I'll let you figure out that story on your own...). Then my bantam coop is about 5x5, is all wooden with a slightly sloped roof and shingles. Their run is covered in random boards of wood and is made of chicken wire covered pallets, and they all do great.
We've had a bit of a problem with frostbite in the comb, but never horrible and it always goes away after a few months(don't ask me how... I don't know). We never use insulation since most kinds hide mites and our chickens have proven time and time again that they will eat almost anything you have for insulation one way or another. We have no heated waterers since the only one we ever had lasted about a month before everyone was pissed off with it and someone kicked it and broke it(I don't remember who but that's not important) Instead we use a lot of rubber bowls, which are easy to break the ice out of... also we carry a lot of warm buckets from the shower to the coops.
Really, we lose more birds to summer heat than we do to winter cold, most breeds are built to survive the cold, even my brown leghorns do just fine. If you have any more questions or ever need help with an issue, feel free to message me, I'm glad to help.
We've had a bit of a problem with frostbite in the comb, but never horrible and it always goes away after a few months(don't ask me how... I don't know). We never use insulation since most kinds hide mites and our chickens have proven time and time again that they will eat almost anything you have for insulation one way or another. We have no heated waterers since the only one we ever had lasted about a month before everyone was pissed off with it and someone kicked it and broke it(I don't remember who but that's not important) Instead we use a lot of rubber bowls, which are easy to break the ice out of... also we carry a lot of warm buckets from the shower to the coops.
Really, we lose more birds to summer heat than we do to winter cold, most breeds are built to survive the cold, even my brown leghorns do just fine. If you have any more questions or ever need help with an issue, feel free to message me, I'm glad to help.
Good advice so far!
My coop/ run combination grew over time, on an old concrete building foundation. There's insulation in half of the roof, which helps more with summer heat than winter cold, and we aren't going to insulate the run roof section, it's just not needed.
Yes to electricity out there! For lighting when needed, a heat source for little chicks when they are there before being ready to do without, and especially for the heated bases for water in winter. We do use a rubber bowl outside, but not for the interior waterers.
Ours is built to residential code for snow load, walk-in, on that old concrete slab. The concrete is cracked in places, not ideal, and covered in rubber stall mats for easier shoveling out.
Walls are wood, two layers, and a shingled roof. Exterior doors are from the Restore, exterior grade, with locks to foil those raccoons.
No bears here, or we'd add electric. There's no space for a large fenced run, but fencing for livestock is nearby, and the near lot line is fenced.
In winter, two layers of sheet vinyl attached to the lower six feet of the open run sides, and the window near some roosts. The upper foot or two is left open.
Our birds despise snow, and won't wade through it at all. They may tip-toe over an inch or so of the white stuff, but that's about it. When the horses make paths to their hay and the barn, the birds will use those.
We've had Belgian d"Uccles for decades with no issues except occasionally frozen tips on a rooster's comb. I don't select for huge SQ feathering on the feet, but more moderate amounts.
I prefer breeds noted for cold tolerance, and do have some hens with single combs too, all fine. The single combed roosters did have combs with frost bitten tips.
It can hit -20F in winter, but here in southern Michigan it's milder that Wisconsin where I grew up. We get snow, occasionally 24", but again, not terrible. Shade in summer is essential!
A few of our Belgin d'Uccles are there in the pictures.
Mary
My coop/ run combination grew over time, on an old concrete building foundation. There's insulation in half of the roof, which helps more with summer heat than winter cold, and we aren't going to insulate the run roof section, it's just not needed.
Yes to electricity out there! For lighting when needed, a heat source for little chicks when they are there before being ready to do without, and especially for the heated bases for water in winter. We do use a rubber bowl outside, but not for the interior waterers.
Ours is built to residential code for snow load, walk-in, on that old concrete slab. The concrete is cracked in places, not ideal, and covered in rubber stall mats for easier shoveling out.
Walls are wood, two layers, and a shingled roof. Exterior doors are from the Restore, exterior grade, with locks to foil those raccoons.
No bears here, or we'd add electric. There's no space for a large fenced run, but fencing for livestock is nearby, and the near lot line is fenced.
In winter, two layers of sheet vinyl attached to the lower six feet of the open run sides, and the window near some roosts. The upper foot or two is left open.
Our birds despise snow, and won't wade through it at all. They may tip-toe over an inch or so of the white stuff, but that's about it. When the horses make paths to their hay and the barn, the birds will use those.
We've had Belgian d"Uccles for decades with no issues except occasionally frozen tips on a rooster's comb. I don't select for huge SQ feathering on the feet, but more moderate amounts.
I prefer breeds noted for cold tolerance, and do have some hens with single combs too, all fine. The single combed roosters did have combs with frost bitten tips.
It can hit -20F in winter, but here in southern Michigan it's milder that Wisconsin where I grew up. We get snow, occasionally 24", but again, not terrible. Shade in summer is essential!
A few of our Belgin d'Uccles are there in the pictures.
Mary
I live near Ottawa, Ontario on the Quebec side; depending on where in Maine you move you could be either north or south of my location. Similar weather although Nor'easters tend to bypass us.
I built my 1st coop about a year ago and have a winter with birds under my belt. I spent more than a year reading about coop construction and predators (one needs to build for what one has to protect against) before I decided on a design.
Many (all?) coops that are described on this forum seem to evolve; whether from a new or existing shed or "coop in a box" or "custom builds". I decided early on to build a proven design suitable to my climate and environment. From recommendations of people on this site I found and chose the Woods fresh air style and built a 10' by 16' KD (Knock Down). While applicable to many climates it is particularly suitable to harsh winters such as Maine or where I live.
IMHO one's choice in coop design is critical in allowing focus on the birds rather than annoyances arising from a bad design. However, I am also shifting my flock to include only birds that are tolerant of cold weather (why fight city hall?) initially focusing on White Large Fowl Chanteclers (I now have 15). I also have an interest in both Icelandics and Hungarian Yellows.
I decided to elevate my coop off the ground; my rationale was deterrence of pests and predators and use of the space underneath as an "instant and secure" run. Mine is three feet+ off the ground to make access easy for maintenance.
I used metal roofing over membrane over wood. My slopes do not cause the snow to slide off on it's own but the coop is low enough that I could clear if a particularly bad winter called for it.
I have electricity but NOT TO HEAT! I have lights, heater for water, plugs.
I also heeded the observation that one should be able to stand erect inside the coop. In mine about one third of the floor space allows this while the rest can be easily reached on the occasions where it is needed (I need to bend over to clean my drop boards).
I recommend that one does not short change on the robustness of the build. In the winter I can have several feet of snow on a roof, that snow will be alternating layers of ice and snow and at times will be sopping wet because IT BOTH MELTS AND RAINS IN THE WINTER.
As to runs mine are still a work in process. The run under the coop was a no-brainer: minimal cost/effort as all I needed was 1/2" by 1/2" HC around the perimeter and apron areas; however it does not provide enough space for the number of birds I can hold in my coop. I recently decided to free range in response to feather pecking problems, early stages and I worry about predators but it has impacted how much additional run space I think I need to build out.
FWIW I am building a 2nd smaller 8' by 12' Woods KD, this time on a trailer so it is "easily" moveable and still elevated. While the footprint is smaller I will replicate wall heights of my larger coop. This decision for a second coop is because of a new found interest in heritage breeds and a possible desire to contribute to their preservation.
Which brings me to another consideration. I realized that I needed "pens" in addition to coops/runs. If one wants to hatch chicks one needs to be able to isolate for a period of time for a variety of reasons (broody hen, injured/deficient birds, pre-integration with flock). I will want to segregate "families" of particular breeds in order to control which roo mates with which hens. Initially I have built pens inside my coop and under the drop boards but current thinking is to build six small (4' by 6'?) HC/wood frame pens to be used during the spring breeding periods. These will be separate from both coops and runs but close by.
As you can see space evolution afflicts me as well but in my case it is functional rather than corrective.
Best of luck with both your move as well as your new flocks.
I built my 1st coop about a year ago and have a winter with birds under my belt. I spent more than a year reading about coop construction and predators (one needs to build for what one has to protect against) before I decided on a design.
Many (all?) coops that are described on this forum seem to evolve; whether from a new or existing shed or "coop in a box" or "custom builds". I decided early on to build a proven design suitable to my climate and environment. From recommendations of people on this site I found and chose the Woods fresh air style and built a 10' by 16' KD (Knock Down). While applicable to many climates it is particularly suitable to harsh winters such as Maine or where I live.
IMHO one's choice in coop design is critical in allowing focus on the birds rather than annoyances arising from a bad design. However, I am also shifting my flock to include only birds that are tolerant of cold weather (why fight city hall?) initially focusing on White Large Fowl Chanteclers (I now have 15). I also have an interest in both Icelandics and Hungarian Yellows.
I decided to elevate my coop off the ground; my rationale was deterrence of pests and predators and use of the space underneath as an "instant and secure" run. Mine is three feet+ off the ground to make access easy for maintenance.
I used metal roofing over membrane over wood. My slopes do not cause the snow to slide off on it's own but the coop is low enough that I could clear if a particularly bad winter called for it.
I have electricity but NOT TO HEAT! I have lights, heater for water, plugs.
I also heeded the observation that one should be able to stand erect inside the coop. In mine about one third of the floor space allows this while the rest can be easily reached on the occasions where it is needed (I need to bend over to clean my drop boards).
I recommend that one does not short change on the robustness of the build. In the winter I can have several feet of snow on a roof, that snow will be alternating layers of ice and snow and at times will be sopping wet because IT BOTH MELTS AND RAINS IN THE WINTER.
As to runs mine are still a work in process. The run under the coop was a no-brainer: minimal cost/effort as all I needed was 1/2" by 1/2" HC around the perimeter and apron areas; however it does not provide enough space for the number of birds I can hold in my coop. I recently decided to free range in response to feather pecking problems, early stages and I worry about predators but it has impacted how much additional run space I think I need to build out.
FWIW I am building a 2nd smaller 8' by 12' Woods KD, this time on a trailer so it is "easily" moveable and still elevated. While the footprint is smaller I will replicate wall heights of my larger coop. This decision for a second coop is because of a new found interest in heritage breeds and a possible desire to contribute to their preservation.
Which brings me to another consideration. I realized that I needed "pens" in addition to coops/runs. If one wants to hatch chicks one needs to be able to isolate for a period of time for a variety of reasons (broody hen, injured/deficient birds, pre-integration with flock). I will want to segregate "families" of particular breeds in order to control which roo mates with which hens. Initially I have built pens inside my coop and under the drop boards but current thinking is to build six small (4' by 6'?) HC/wood frame pens to be used during the spring breeding periods. These will be separate from both coops and runs but close by.
As you can see space evolution afflicts me as well but in my case it is functional rather than corrective.
Best of luck with both your move as well as your new flocks.
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