My run might be too tall.

[Lulu-vt]

^sorry but I would not follow that advice at all. That design is like yours, being supported only by fasteners not designed for shear loads. But then they’ve added even more weight on top with more wood and roof. That’s a potentially dangerous setup in situations like snow loads.



To avoid relocating the side-attached beams like that, to the top of the posts, you can get by with sistering a 2x4 to the post, underneath the horizontal 2x6. It’s like a Trimmer and Jack/King Stud in doorway/window framing.

To OP, since you skinned the structure already in HC, I’d consider sandwiching the hardware cloth in between.

Good luck!

Yes! I will be sandwiching! It’s in the plans. Thanks for the advice. “Sistering” does sound easier than redoing the whole thing but if I decide to lop of the top 2 feet then I’ll do it right.

 

[Sic]

My run might be too tall.​

There is no such thing.

 

[chooki]

I second that, your run is not too tall. My birds love to fly, at least try to, especially the young ones.
Secure a few branches at different heights inside your run, they will be having fun!

 

[Sefirothe]

^sorry but I would not follow that advice at all. That design is like yours, being supported only by fasteners not designed for shear loads. But then they’ve added even more weight on top with more wood and roof. That’s a potentially dangerous setup in situations like snow loads.



To avoid relocating the side-attached beams like that, to the top of the posts, you can get by with sistering a 2x4 to the post, underneath the horizontal 2x6. It’s like a Trimmer and Jack/King Stud in doorway/window framing.

To OP, since you skinned the structure already in HC, I’d consider sandwiching the hardware cloth in between.

Good luck!

The rafter 2x4's going cross ways sit on top of another 2x4 that sits on top of the corner posts. They are not hung from the side. I did omit that detail in my previous post.

You can see a rafter temporarily set up in the top right hand corner of this photo. And you can see the 2x4's framing the top resting on the wall posts. The remaining 2x4's facing long side out around the top are semi weight bearing as they fit into notches cut in the side posts, but are more for area to attach the hardware cloth and eventually furring strips to.

We've had no issues with snow loads and a freak once in a decade storm that blew thru with straight line winds up to 70 mph. It caused a lot of damage on our street from downed trees, including two massive oaks behind the chicken coop that got taken out.

 

[Love Donkeys]

The rafter 2x4's going cross ways sit on top of another 2x4 that sits on top of the corner posts. They are not hung from the side. I did omit that detail in my previous post.

You can see a rafter temporarily set up in the top right hand corner of this photo. And you can see the 2x4's framing the top resting on the wall posts. The remaining 2x4's facing long side out around the top are semi weight bearing as they fit into notches cut in the side posts, but are more for area to attach the hardware cloth and eventually furring strips to.

View attachment 3943681
We've had no issues with snow loads and a freak once in a decade storm that blew thru with straight line winds up to 70 mph. It caused a lot of damage on our street from downed trees, including two massive oaks behind the chicken coop that got taken out.

View attachment 3943688

My husband over builds everything, even our coop. We moved our farm from the snow-belt of Upstate NY to the "deep" south. When Jerry was building the garage, a neighbor stopped and asked why the pitch of the trusses was so high. Jerry said "snow load", which really confused the neighbor.

 

[Sefirothe]

My husband over builds everything, even our coop. We moved our farm from the snow-belt of Upstate NY to the "deep" south. When Jerry was building the garage, a neighbor stopped and asked why the pitch of the trusses was so high. Jerry said "snow load", which really confused the neighbor.

We joked when the next tornado takes out the house, we were going to move into the chicken coop.

 

[Love Donkeys]

We joked when the next tornado takes out the house, we were going to move into the chicken coop.

If you have to move into the coop and have a house warming party, send photos.

 

[Themellowyellows]

It seems like a good run, if you dont like it, either shorten it, or put some camp around it and flowers. You can also put some roosts that are a lil high for ur chooks so they can have fun!

 

[Almosta Farm]

If the main problem is your perception of the asthetics, then ultimately it's just simply up to you. Do what makes you feel happy when you look at it. If it was me though, the higher the better.

 

[Lulu-vt]

No. Don't shorten the posts. But I would cut off the sections protruding over the tops of the beams.

You are supposed to put the beams on top of the posts, not nailed or screwed to the sides of them. Because you did that, I would cut some scrap 2x4s and screw those to the post directly under the beams using 5" long screws for added support.

And there is no way it's too big!

I would run bird-mouth cut rafters on the beams at 2' on center then run some 1x3 purlins 2' OC from the top down and install either metal or polycarbonate roofing.

It’s been a few weeks but I still think the run is too tall. So, I’m going to cut off the tops of the posts and lower the whole thing. Because I’m doing this, I’ll now be able to do the top the right way like you said. I just don’t understand what you mean.
I have 4x4 posts on the corners and 2x6 boards at the top (but nailed in to the side of the posts) How do I put the horizontal 2x6 on top?

I was planning on putting a birds mouth cut 2x4 on top of the 2x6 and running it across the run with purlins. From there I’m going to attach polybicarbonate roofing.