Need help with this puppy.

[SourRoses]

Just a fellow pet owner here.. but I do agree with you on keeping the commitments we make to our pets when we get them

One thing you should do first and foremost (next comes the trainer) is get a proper crate. I would do it today. Make sure she can stand, turn around, and lay comfortably in the size you get, but not so big she would think she can potty on one end and lay in the other. When you get it home, put a pillow or something in it for her to lie in, and cover the rear 2/3rds and back and sides with some towels or a blanket. So if she wants to make the back of it her safe little "cave" it will feel like one for her.
Then leave the door open, don't make her go in.. but keep putting treats, food, and her toys in the crate until she is going in on her own. Just let her know that the crate is her own place and optional. A lot of dogs really appreciate having a private, safe feeling place that is all their own. No one bothers her while she's in the crate, don't reach in for her... it's her place to call a "time out" when she's had enough human interaction. I kinda suspect part of the issue for her is just too much human interaction for her personality in the way of kids wanting to play and cuddle, and not enough privacy. Look at her like a teenage girl

If she's in the crate and you want her to come out, tease her out with treats and calling to her.

Then you can work on shutting her in. You can let her out as often as you like (though never during a whining or barking session), but never use it as a punishment spot. This way you can close her up if need be.

Our 4 month BC really LOVES her crate. She takes her naps in there with the door open and always runs for her crate when she's feeling a little unsure of herself. Shes a really good girl but she does think she can herd the 2 little Pee-Shi-Poo puppies all over, and she makes some attempts at herding us before we herd her back

As for other options should you need them.... it might not be what you wanted for her, but if you cannot correct the issue completely, and seeing as a house full of children and her feeling the deep instinct to "herd" and thus correct them all, might be the problem... you could think about letting her be more of an outside dog. Maybe you as an older kid or mom or dad could bring her inside when the smaller kids are asleep and designate a sleeping area for her, like her crate, or the kitchen or something (with a baby gate closing it off?) so she can sleep in comfort but not be part of the higher house activity during the day?


Do of course get the trainer asap too! But I would get the crate while I waited to find one!

 

[watchdogps]

I agree with everything said by redeyre and dainerra. Disagree with doing any kind of harsh, physical correction. Agree with looking up cesar milan - to learn what NOT to do!

This does sound like he's got some deep seated problems stemming from leaving mom young. He needs his little doggie butt whooped by a DOG. If you have any friends who have dogs with really good dog manners who will put him in his place but not brutalize him, maybe he can spend some time there? Doggie daycares run by intelligent people can be helpful too, but you really have to screen them. I know around here some of the trainers will take these kind of dogs home with their dogs for this reason.

 

[NYboy]

Quote:
2x If you lived alone it would be diffrent, But you have children in your home.There are many good dogs needing homes. Sorry

 

[dainerra]

this dog isn't showing "real" aggression. He is showing normal puppy behavior, esp for a herding breed dog. Unless the training aspect is taken care of, any dog brought into the family is going to have the exact same problems.

Don't give up on her.

 

[mama24]

I haven't read all the replies, but like human children, puppies need a lot of structure. I would start walking him on a leash and teaching him to heel several times a day, and also take him out in the yard to chase a ball or some other type of active play at least once a day, more if you can. Sounds like he needs more structure and training than he's getting. He needs to know that he gets fed at this time, walked at this time, and be put on a schedule. Dogs that know what to expect and when to expect it tend to be better behaved and actually handle new situations better.

 

[Beekissed]

Quote:
When last I checked, lunging/snapping at a two year old child wouldn't be considered normal puppy or herd dog behavior. Biting or mouthing in play is normal puppy behavior. Nipping at livestock's heels is normal herd dog behavior.

I've never had any of my Labs growl, snap, or lunge aggressively at any human being~ puppy or adult age~so I doubt that ANY dog brought into a family situation would have those EXACT same problems. That's pretty specific wording.

 

[ProudNewChickenMommy86]

ive always flicked my pups in the nose and when they broke skin i would grab their nose look them straight in the eye nose to nose with them and stare at them and tell them NO! and that's always worked, had to be done a few times, but it worked. or you could always bite him back i mean hey? he did it to you first

 

[pinkfoxfarm]

im 100% with redeyre, dainerra and watchdogs on this one...

firstly dogs KNOW your not a dog so the ever popular alpha roll is a great way to get yourself potentially BADLY bitten...even milan himself the big GO TO for the alpha roll has, (im told since i cant stand watching the man) STOPPED using the rol and is now evern warning people against it...

ive worked with some pretty wild canines (wolves, coyotes ect) and can tel you canines are not stupid, they know were not dogs so trying to correct him like another dog "might" is ridiculous thinking...
also wolves and other dogs NEVER alpha roll, a dog will roll over on its own as a submittal behaviour...but any dog forced to roll is one who wont be getting up alive typically...if an alpha wolf FORCES a dog onto its back its for the sole intent of killing it...

doesnt that sound like a GREAT way to bond with your dog...shove it on its bak and let it think you want to kill it...sound good to you?!

a mother will NEVER shake her puppies either...i dont know where this barbaric treamtnet got started but a shake is once again a death threat! plain and simple, a mother will growl and snap, and in extreem cases put her teeth on the back of a pups neck, but she NEVER bites down and she NEVER EVER shakes, once again a great way to make an already unstable dog even more unstable.

i personally dont agree with leash pops ect either...there completly unessicary and increidbly dangerous. the trechea is delicate, and if youve ever had naythign tight around your throat youd know that...choking is not fun, and teaches nothing but fear...

the dog doesnt LEARN from these methods, instead it either becomes so afraid of doign something wrong that its a frightend shell, or it acts out even more... a shut down dog is a danerous dog...because you correct the WARNING not the probelm...and without the warning youve got a truly dangerous animal.

first things first, a HEALTHY dog is not constantly itchy...
and a miserable dog with tender skin is going to be touch shy.
what food are you feeding!?
get puppy off grains...
if your willing to do the extra work (and it sounds like your increidbly dedicated) id be putting some serious reserch into getting this puppy on a Raw diet, preferably true prey model.
constant itchyness is either a skin problem like mange or mites...or an allergy, of which the most common are fleas, corn and corn fed meat (i also find soy is a big issue in allergy prne dogs)

at minimum id be putting this dog on a completly corn and chicken free diet, (i personlly dont think dogs are llergic to chicken but instead the horrible stuff the chicken in comercial dog food was fed...) try lamb and rice...
the better choice would be to go completly grain free
and the best choice would be to go raw...
you might find getting down to the route of the skin problem to be a big part of the battle, if hes itchy and scratching himself alot his skin will be tender, and combs (flea combs especially) pull the hair, if his skin is tender combing brushing and even petting could be quite painfull.

did the vet do any kind of skin scraping? might be worth asking for a skin scraping too just to rule out mange, ringworm and parisites, which while typically come with hairloss, on a heavy coated breed all can go in the early stages with few visual clues beyond being very itchy.

id also be getting him neutered ASAP, he doesnt need those extra hormones and while it may not cure the issue...it certainly wont hurt.

but ontop of all the good training advice i definalty think youve got something going on with this dogs skin thats potentially making him incredibly miserable at the thought of being touched and along with PROFESIONAL positive reinforcment,getting this skin problem figured out and under control might be a small key that helps with the bigger issue.

it sounds like you are serious about making this work, and that in itself is going to be a HUGE part of if this is going to work out for this dog.
personally i dont belive any PUPPY is born bad or any young dog is beyond saving...this puppy is suffering from a combination of gentics/bad breeding, being removed from his mother and littermates much too young, lack of structure (and id put money lack of physical and mental stimulation) and theres something going on with his skin to boot...youd be pretty messed up with all that going on too!
id pay close attention to redeyre, dainerra and watchdogs suggestions because theyve covered all the training suggestions id offer myself...

and try and get the skin issue sorted...if your vet just brushed it off it might be worth a second opinion because healthy dogs arnt constantly itchy.

good luck and please keep us updated.

 

[Nimby Chickens]

X2 on the crate. Dogs need a spot they can be alone and have a place that is theirs. Do not punish the dog in it or pull the dog out - they need to know that the kennel/crate is a safe zone and associate good things with it. Put him in it and treat him until he goes in and out easily - Aussies like to investigate new things and are wary of them initially.

Neuter him ASAP, that will usually help curve aggression.

These two words will change your life - HEAD COLLAR. I cannot stress it enough. It is a great tool for obedience and to stop dogs from pulling. I walk my dogs often with them and the instant they do something I don't like, quick gentle tug on the head collar and a firm 'NO' and the behavior is corrected. It lets them know the instant you dislike something they do, similar to a clicker but only used for correction, not reward. Dogs won't be able to pull you either.

Gentle leader website (my personal fave) http://www.gentleleader.com/View.aspx?page=dogs/products/behavior/gentleleader/description

And the most important part of training - CONSISTENCY. Everyone in your household needs to be aware of the rules you set forth for training and needs to follow them without fail. Letting him get away with anything will set you back in training and confuse the dog. He needs to know exactly what you want and what is expected of him.

I agree also that you have a dog allergic to something in the food, and often it is grain. Try a grain-free food and see if that helps his itching. My dog is allergic to grain, fleas, corn, etc. and he is also an Aussie. I feed him Taste of the Wild salmon and sweet potato dog food - excellent for sensitive skin and it's human grade food.

Taste of the Wild - http://www.tasteofthewildpetfood.com/

 

[Willowsong69]

Quote:
Beautifully said Muggs!

Being the leader isn't about being mean or abusive. And a firm hand IS what is needed. This does not mean hitting!!! It means taking the dominant role and following through in an affirmative way so the dog knows he is not leader of the pack. About being in charge.

You should have your vet run a blood test and have a skin scrape done. It seems there might be something underlying, besides fleas.