Need Information on feed/shelter mini horse through winter

where told he would be fine going 6 months between trims, since we do not work him.

--I am not sure who told you that, or why someone would say that. The photo above shows why it does not work. Ours are trimmed every six weeks, in work or not. It is far cheaper than vet bills. Even in large pastures, many or most will not 'wear their feet down' or wear them down evenly enough that 'au naturel' works. The other thing to keep in mind is that while wild horse life sounds great, if a wild horse can't walk due to sore feet, no one notices or cares if he can't walk, except the predators.

--We got a pony that had been treated to trims once every six months or so. It was agonizing to watch him try to limp around, his feet were worse than the picture above. He was in terrible pain. Think about it.

He is the friendliest little guy, If we are out feeding the ducks, rabbits, and call for him "Hey Ed, Hey Eddie!" He will lift up his head and whinny then comes running over to the fence to be petted and loved on.
My questions are thus, Will he need to be inside for the winter?

-- Iowa can have very, very bitter, wet windy and changeable winters. The temperature can pop up and down and the wind can be amazing. Snow can be so deep the grass is covered. Some animals will paw through, but it can run them down something awful, and some just can't learn to paw through to the grass; in other cases there just isn't any grass left to eat.

--I would recommend you plan on buying some hay to get your mini through the winter even if you have a pasture. There is no guarantee that it will be a mild winter and there will be any grass at all through that entire time; winter goes a long time in Iowa, from about November to end of April, that is almost half the year, very, very few people that far north winter over stock without having to buy some hay. That said, a mini probably doesn't go through much hay, perhaps as little as two flakes a day depending on HOW mini it is (LOL), or one bale lasting several days or more.

--I'll also say this - there are a good many minis and small ponies that can't have any pasture grass at all without getting very, very sick.

--As much as the mini looks like a perfectly beautiful replica of a horse (instead of just looking like a smaller pony), breeds like Shetland Pony WERE used to get the size down, and they are very prone to overweight, and to founder, especially if they eat too much grass or grain. ANY comments you hear about your mini getting unlimited grazing or larger amounts of concentrated feeds, need to be considered in light of this inescapable fact.

-- The explanation usually is that the lands where the Shetland developed were some of the sparsest pastures outside if deserts...and the animals just aren't set up for a lot of rich feed. They can get terribly fat - fat alone can cause problems, and over eating can cause the bane of the horseman's existence: founder (inflammation of the feet).

--If they have foundered already, or if they have certain other conditions, fresh growing grass can make them very sick (so can grass clippings, especially if they sit for a little while). Yes, there are indeed equines that can't be let out on pasture at all. Ask the previous owner if this is the case with your mini. It is not unusual. I'd find that out before making too many decisions. Some minis and ponies need to be kept strictly out of pasture and always fed hay - all of their turnout is in a dirt pen and not a pasture. Some can't even be pastured after a good hard frost makes the grass stop growing!

We are considering puttting him into the garage (use to be the chicken coop) along with the rabbit cages.

--Normally, a horse would spend part of the time in the barn and part of the time outdoors. In the barn at night, when everyone is gone off the property, and during the worst weather, storms, lightning, ice, etc. Out in the pasture as much as possible, just to be moving around, even if the grass is all gone.

--Very few horses have 'the sense to come in out of the rain'. They may use a 3 sided shelter, or you may come out in the worst storm to find your mini standing out in the blasting wind and snow, whether he is suffering with the cold or not. Horses just don't really think that through like a person would, you may have to come out and put him in the shelter if it is really bad. If a 3 sided shelter is used, be sure the open side is out of the wind(the direction it blows in the winter might be different than in summer), and make it so you can close it off with a gate to keep him in there if he doesn't go in there when the weather is at its worst.

-- In a barn, even mini horses need very sturdy stalls without anything they can get hung up on when they roll, lie down or goof around. Stall walls need to be anchored and braced very firmly, even for small equines. Mini stall size recommendations vary - the bigger it is, the better, even for a small equine. Cherry Hill has a nice book about keeping a horse on small acreage that show ideas for sensible, simple shelters.

--Indoors, they need ventilation as well as getting out of the drafts and wind. A coop or garage type building might work, or not. If it's closed up very tight, it might be too stuffy. If it lets in too much wind and wet it would be a problem too. What we do is keep the barn open enough to keep the air fresh all day, and close it up more at night when it really gets cold, and put blankets on the horses or take them off as the temperature changes. If they aren't blanketed, they need extra feed to stay warm, and they might just need some blanketing say, during the worst weather, anyway.

If we did this we would use pine bedding for the floor. (this is a large area a one stall Very deep garage) Would this be the best option or would he be happier outside with a 3 sided lean too for shelter?

--How was he kept before? He's probably best off kept similar to the way he's used to, at least the first year. It can take a blanketed, hot barn horse a year or two to get his coat going properly for a colder barn/turnout or no blankets. The first fall he might not grow much coat at all, then gradually start growing more coat. The new owner can usually reduce blanketing as the hair coat starts to grow more in the fall. Or he can stick with a blanket. Blankets are not 'unhealthy' or 'bad', it's just a matter of opinion(and it's horse people so the opinions are very, very strong) and what a person likes and what their situation is. For us, we blanket, as the horses get worked every evening after I come home, and if we did not blanket, the coat would be very heavy and sopping wet with sweat for hours at night.


Also how much feed and of what kind would we need?
--People will tell you a lot of different things, from they should just have a vitamin-mineral-fat-protein product to 'balance' their grass/hay diet(such as a handful of Grow N Win), or that they MUST have lots of grain. The grain and feed salesman will tell you you MUST buy it and feed a LOT of it. You will hear every opinion and they will all be different. My own take on it is that smaller equines need more than anything, to not get overweight, and quite a few of them are going to run into problems if they are fed any grain/pellet or anything like that at ALL. Overweight and overfeeding grain to any equine can cause a lot of problems, such as founder, which can even be to the point where it cripples or ruins the animal. Many smaller equines are like this and it's very important to respect that. Ours gets nothing other than good hay (NO pasture or grass) and a handful of grow and win (a TINY handful) per vet's orders. One more founder and he's finished. My friend's mini is a show horse and is kept very fit and in work 5x a week, slick coated, fat and sassy with a handful of grain, a controlled/restricted amount of grazing and hay in winter.

I noticed that our local thiesens has horse feed 50lbs for $7. That is cheaper then layer feed! How much would I need to feed him a day? Also the small square bails of hay are around $3.50 here. How many of those would I need per week? or Month?
If someone could help me to find out the monthly or weekley cost of keeping ed through the winter that would be wonderful.

--It really depends on the individual animal. But 50 lbs of feed for 7 dollars is a cheap price for feed.

-- Feeds vary in quality. Cheaper is as cheaper does. Cheaper ones tend to have a lot of corn and molasses, just what you don't want to have a small equine get a lot of. I don't think a mini needs a lot of 'concentrates' (pellets, ration balancer, 'grain' (plain corn, oats), or 'sweet feed' (molasses, corn and etc)).

--You can look at feed tables at Merck's online website and read their vet manuals (horse section) online for free. Minis weigh from 180-250 lbs and you can calculate about what yours should eat based on those feed tables. Weigh yours, then calculate about what he should be eating based on his weight.

-- I gave some sort of ballpark idea up there on hay, of a bale of hay might last 5 days, depending in the individual animal.

--The eye of the master fatteneth the cattle, as the Bible says. What it means is that within the general guidelines, the owner has to make little adjustments to make sure his animal is not too fat or thin, and is thriving and healthy with all the minerals, vitamins, protein fat and carbs it needs.

--I'm worried that you seem so concerned about the cost. Keeping any equine, even a small one, is a big financial responsibility. Even small equines need frequent foot trims, vaccinations twice yearly, worming every two months, fecal tests, and good housing. Because it's small, may reduce some costs but it doesn't really make it a cheap pet to keep. And one always needs to have an emergency amount of cash at hand for emergency vet care if the animal gets hurt or sick.
 
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I would also get a handle on this behavior. Don't let him come at you with his ears pinned and back you up. Get a halter and lead on him when you come out and insist on good behavior. Make him stand quietly before he gets any attention, petting, treats, whatever. They may be small but they can quickly turn into little terrors when they decide they can push you around when you don't do what they want, when they want it. Teach him to lead properly, back up, step to the side etc. In other words, manners. Even though they are small they still need at least basic training just like full size horses if they are to be pleasant to have around! You don't want even a mini who progresses to biting or whirling around and letting fly with those back feet when he get's mad!

Also, as someone else mentioned, be prepared for medical emergencies. You mentioned finances are a problem which I understand but when (when, not if) horses get sick or have an emergency, even little horses, the bill can quickly run into the hundreds and sometimes thousands of dollars.

Not trying to be negative, I hope he works out for you and you are able to keep him. Just food for thought.
 
If a horse of any size came at me with ears back I'd have smacked them on the neck and sent them the other way. Horses don't order people around. You have to be boss horse and the boss horse would put any horse that threatens them in their place real quick. He only gets what he wants if he approaches with proper manners. Horses kept with other horses also learn how to threaten without actually making contact. If you watch horses that grew up in herds they will kick at each other but rarely make contact. The winner is whoever can get closer without making contact, react faster, and not lose ground while doing it. The only horses I see actually beat on each other have generally been stalled a lot or kept with very few other horses particularly when a colt is kept only with it's mother or other older broodmares. All that means you don't have to actually make contact with a horse majority of the time to get your point across. Showing them you can get close quickly is generally enough. A rope or riding crop is handy for that since you can flick it out and touch them very lightly. All it has to do is brush down their side to get your point across aside from really spoiled horses that might need a few repetitions to get it.
 
First of all I know they cost alot of money, like I said I was at a small animal auction and DH who grew up around cattle was on the other side (hoofed animal auction) he bought the pony because he honestly thought he would be outbid, after we got him home, we worked with him night and day for weeks to get him to the pony he is now. He use to run from you and would try to bite at you when you walked or brushed him. He has lead well since the beginning has no problems being on a lead, We watch his ears carefully, he uses them to let us know what kind of mood he is in. We do not accept bad behavior, When he is on the lead now he walks nicely, biggest problem is he wants to stop and eat every two feet, I am working on that , not sure how to correct it other then continually pulling his head up and moving on. He hasn't tried to bite since the second week we had him, has never kicked at anyone even when he got shaved, and has only reared up once, when a car went by and we where on the road checking the mail, I quickly calmed him down and as soon as he was calm lead him back to his pen and put him away for the day. He knows if he doesn't act properly he won't get to come out again.
Anyway The reason I started this is because we don't have a lot of money and much as I want to keep Ed if you all think it would be better to try to find him another home, then try to keep him that is what I will do. I want to do what is best for him. He is to awesome of a pony to not be treated right.
Thanks again
Melissa
 
You could always do like I do, and eat a lot of Ramen noodles...LOL.

Having horses really is a choice. We horse owners are a strange club - we are just nuts enough to choose to give up other things in order to have horses (or ponies or minis). And maybe our children turn out to like horses too, and maybe that's their entertainment too, and it works out. A lot of it is about life style. Barn chores are healthy work and riding out in nature is relaxing and healthy. Spending time with a horse can be a real nice change of pace from the stress of work.

I've often had friends get after me for 'spending so much money' on horses(they assumed I did, anyway, evil cackle). But when I add up what they spend on getting a new car by payments as often as they do, what extra they have to pay in mortgage payments, and what they spend on beer, cigarettes, going to bars, eating out and going on expensive vacations, it's a WHOLE lot more than what I spend on my horses. A WHOLE lot.

Most of us horse owners, we aren't rich. We choose to give up other things to have horses, and depending on what our income is it might be a really big sacrifice or not so much. We buy tack on sale or used, we may go without lessons or showing in years that our work hours are cut back and we bring in less income, or we might stick to showing at the little shows around the corner. We make choices.

That emergency fund just sits there waiting for a vet emergency, and like yesterday, when I drooled over that pretty dinner dress at the mall(DROOL!!!!), I KNEW all I was going to do was look, lol.
 
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I totally understand what you are saying, I grew up a city kid but have always loved animals, When I was a kid I raised rabbits, and always had two dogs and two cats that lived in our house. When all my friends where buying toys, or candy, I was buying dog toys and pet treats, As teenagers they would spend hours in JC Penny or VonMours just looking at clothes they wanted to buy, I would head straight for the petshop and check out all the animals, and buy toys and stuff for the hamsters, rabbits, guinea pigs, dogs and cats i had.

Now the amount we spend on frivalties for ourselves or the animals is close to nothing. Our frivoties are two 12pks of Sams Choice Cola $2.50 a 12pk for me a month and 4 packs of Cheap cigars $2.15 for a- 20pk. Most of our money goes to feeding our 3 dogs, 20 some chickens, and 15 ducks, (a lot of which we would of sold by now but can't because of the disease that has gone around) Alot of our money this year was lost with the chickens that died. We usually make between 300 and 400 a year selling chicks, pullets and ducklings in the spring and summer. So its not like we will always be this broke. Its just that right now we are, and I want to keep Ed through the winter. Hopefully we avoid all vet costs if that should arise I can always borrow money (we have no debt at the moment Thank GOD) That being said. Once he is wormed and feet trimed. Will I be able to pay for his feed with $25-$30 a month? I want to be able to provide him good hay. I am thinking that the horse feed will not be necessary unless he starts to look to thin. I am not counting the cost of bedding as that is something we will have to buy anyway. If we don't keep Ed in the garage on Cold nights we will probably keep the rabbits in there anyway and will need the bedding on the floor. The "garage" has cement floor and cement walls 3' up on all side but the side we made to seperate my "chicken half" from his garage half.
I got Ed at an auction and don't have a clue where he was housed last year.In the spring we kept him on hubbys side of garage in a pen about 5' by 6' made out of cattle panels with no problems. The side of the garage we will be keeping him in on cold nights and storms is 12' wide by 18' long. We have a seperate 4' by 12' area for the chickens this year.

Anyway I hope this will work, if anyone thinks not let me know and I will start trying to find someone who can take proper care of Edward.
 
I have my 2 minis done every 8 wks. I feed hay and 1/4 cup of grain in the winter time only ..salt block they get and fresh water everyday. I have heated buckets for winter only ..I also worm them every three months mine are doing very well.. love those minis,,,
 
I don't think horse feed is either necessary or desirable for this little chap. By far the best feed in winter is hay. It is very warming and eaten slowly over a long period of time which is the way horses are designed to work. there are many ways you can make economies. A rug/horse blanket, waterproof and padded is one way. It will make his feed go further because he will not just be eating to keep warm. These can be an expense but look around for second hand. Remember it will last for years and save you hay money every winter. A three sided shelter, even made out of second hand materials is sufficient, but I see absolutely no harm in giving him the use of a garage as long as it is safe to do so. Bedding, well traditionally straw, or shavings, but I have known people use shredded newspapers both absorbent, warm and free!

When it comes to worming, look around for offers. The pastes that you squirt into their mouths is not expensive and you can buy it on offer and keep it by you. I would not try to save on farriery care though. To me those toes look a little long, not drastically so, but a little. Having regular trims keeps them in good shape, and prevents chips and cracks. Foot health is essential in equines. Also, a good farrier checks on the overall health of the foot, spots developing problems early, for example thrush or abscesses, and this can save considerable vets fees down the line. Our miniature Shetlands have the farrier every 8-10 weeks, longer in winter when hoof growth slows down. I am intrigued that some people have been shown how to file down a horses hoof. This is illegal here, the only thing you can do is remove a lose shoe. only a qualified farrier can trim/file a horses feet. He looks a lovely little chap, good luck with him.
 
I have 3 minis and they would rather be outside than in. If you could put up a 3 sided shed facing south then he would be fine. They get very thick winter coats. I use about 1 to 1 1/2 bales of grass hay a month in the winter, but I live in Georgia. If you live where it gets really cold you might use more. I feed my minis Purina Omolene 100. It's a good sweet feed. My 4 year old mini gets about 1/2 quart twice a day and 1 bag will last him about a month. Your mini may not need feed at all if he is maintaining his weight on grass and hay. If you live where its very cold I would feed him some feed if he starts to drop weight. As to how much go by his body weight, start with 1/2 quart and if he starts getting fat give him less and if he gets thin up the amount. I worry more about them getting overweight than getting skinny. Most minis are easy keepers.
How much hay are they eating per week?
 

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