Need some advise for breeds.

[teaton]

Thanks guys, noone ever tells you that no matter how much you read. Most websites just state what size and how many eggs to expect said breed to produce like the BA for example is supose to have set a record for laying 364 eggs a year I think. The misconception of that is thinking they always do that, year after year. Atleast it was for me being a newbie and all. Lol

 

[Beekissed]

2 years ago I started out with chickens for the first time ever. I had a plan, I wanted a good dual purpose breed that would give me year round eggs and dress out nicely for the table. I did my homework and decided rhode island reds were for me!!! However I didnt do enough homework to know that if you buy them from most feed stores, hatcheries or backyard sellers more than likely your getting a production red. No biggy I had a set of 4 and I was impressed with thier size, feed ration, and egg laying ability. I consistently got an extra large egg everyday all year round. Boy was I happy so happy I decided to expand, purchase more coops, more birds and even started a small business selling eggs.

Well this year weve had a complete turn around. Now we have 14 free loading hens, out of those 14 laying hens Im down to about 3 eggs every other day. Someone has told me the production and hybrid birds were bred to only be good layers for thier first year. That doesnt really do me any good unless I plan on butchering all every year and starting over but even then id have to plan my hatch dates around that and pray Im not in the same situation.

So Im looking at adding another breed to our farm, and maybe potentially one day as a replacement. I want a good year round layer, that has a good laying season(now that I know thats important) I also want a decent size meat bird. At first I thought speckled sussex, but they dont lay through winter at all, Ive considered Orphingtons, and Australorps too.

But I really just want other peoples opinions based on what they have or have had and what has works best for them. Rather than going off what I've read online this time.
Thanks!

I don't know what you consider "dress out nicely", that varies with each person's perceptions. But, for laying longevity, good year round laying and just plain ol' good feed conversion and hardiness, there is one chicken that simply cannot be bested. The simple Black Australorp. Depending upon the strain you get, you may also find they dress out to your standards.

I keep two breeds here for meat and egg needs....the Plymouth White Rock, which is one of the few truly dual purpose breeds I've experienced. They are exceptional layers and they cannot be beat for meat quality and carcass size, but tend to go broody once a year, so not sure if they will suit your egg selling business plans. But the BA rarely goes broody, they lay for years and do it well, they lay extra large eggs, nicely deep brown in color, and they are incredibly hardy. I always have some BA in each flock...when all other breeds want to hunker down for the winter and take a break, even my trusty WRs will sometimes do so...kind of half and half on their winter laying, some will, some won't....the BAs are cranking out the eggs. As they age, they may slow down a tad on winter laying, but they still lay.

Stay away from sex links or production breeds if you want laying longevity...the BA will serve your purpose.

 

[EggSighted4Life]

@teaton

I thought about you all day yesterday because I wanted to get back here and tell you that you don't have to chase your birds down when you need to treat them. Simply go in the coop while it's still dark and you can treat everybody with no chasing while they are roosted!

I two would like some BA, haven't found any local yet...

 

[teaton]

I don't know what you consider "dress out nicely", that varies with each person's perceptions.  But, for laying longevity, good year round laying and just plain ol' good feed conversion and hardiness, there is one chicken that simply cannot be bested.  The simple Black Australorp.   Depending upon the strain you get, you may also find they dress out to your standards. 

I keep two breeds here for meat and egg needs....the Plymouth White Rock, which is one of the few truly dual purpose breeds I've experienced.  They are exceptional layers and they cannot be beat for meat quality and carcass size, but tend to go broody once a year, so not sure if they will suit your egg selling business plans.   But the BA rarely goes broody, they lay for years and do it well, they lay extra large eggs, nicely deep brown in color, and they are incredibly hardy.  I always have some BA in each flock...when all other breeds want to hunker down for the winter and take a break, even my trusty WRs will sometimes do so...kind of half and half on their winter laying, some will, some won't....the BAs are cranking out the eggs.   As they age, they may slow down a tad on winter laying, but they still lay. 

Stay away from sex links or production breeds if you want laying longevity...the BA will serve your purpose. 

Thank you!!!

 

[teaton]

@teaton
 

I thought about you all day yesterday because I wanted to get back here and tell you that you don't have to chase your birds down when you need to treat them. Simply go in the coop while it's still dark and you can treat everybody with no chasing while they are roosted!

I two would like some BA, haven't found any local yet...

I will try that, it would be nice if that works! Chasing all those chickens is not fun lol

 

[Beekissed]

I will try that, it would be nice if that works! Chasing all those chickens is not fun lol

It works. I NEVER chase a chicken...there's just no need for it and I'm too fat and old to even try.

Keep a nice, bright light over a work station in or near your coop for bird exams...you'll be thanking yourself for it as you go along in your flock tending life. If you have to examine a bird's vent area, just grasp the feet and lay it gently on its back on your work station, lift the feet towards the head and use the other hand to part the fluffy feathers.

I don't handle my birds overly much, but twice a year or so I find it necessary, either to examine their skin for any evidence of parasites or to examine them/tag/measure them in preparation for culling. All of this is done at night where they can calmly be collected off the roosts, examined under a bright light and returned just as calmly.

It works best if you leave the roost area as dark as possible and place your light at the other end of your coop or even outside your coop....full light on the roosts will make them more restless and more apt to jump down off the roosts while you are trying to select one for handling.

 

[Ol Grey Mare]

I will try that, it would be nice if that works! Chasing all those chickens is not fun lol

Oh, it works -- and is SOOO much easier than the fruitless effort of trying to chase them down -- less stressful for you AND the birds!

 

[teaton]

It works.  I NEVER chase a chicken...there's just no need for it and I'm too fat and old to even try.     Keep a nice, bright light over a work station in or near your coop for bird exams...you'll be thanking yourself for it as you go along in your flock tending life.  If you have to examine a bird's vent area, just grasp the feet and lay it gently on its back on your work station, lift the feet towards the head and use the other hand to part the fluffy feathers. 

I don't handle my birds overly much, but twice a year or so I find it necessary, either to examine their skin for any evidence of parasites or to examine them/tag/measure them in preparation for culling.  All of this is done at night where they can calmly be collected off the roosts, examined under a bright light and returned just as calmly.  

It works best if you leave the roost area as dark as possible and place your light at the other end of your coop or even outside your coop....full light on the roosts will make them more restless and more apt to jump down off the roosts while you are trying to select one for handling. 

Thank you for all the great advise and tips!

 

[teaton]

Oh, it works -- and is SOOO much easier than the fruitless effort of trying to chase them down -- less stressful for you AND the birds!

Great to know!!

 

[EggSighted4Life]

So I agree they can have a productive 3rd year. That's why I was thinking of selling my second year hens before they molt so new owners could get a good lay season still. And I would disclose true age and such, I'm not trying to rip anybody off like I've seen so many times.