Needing advice on a sick duck.

Your so right in your reply...Although many experienced people here...Why it's called Backyard Chickens...But we are dealing in Backyard Ducks....Knowledge comes from experience too...Not always text book....

I completely agree with you!
And I have always asked my duck questions here with no issues in the past?
The knowledge and experience is what makes this place so great.
 
You obviously are taking the word of another person who has posted this. Please continue reading to understand. I am going from the manufacturers recommendations ( which treatment of ducks and chickens etc is off label and not studied thoroughly by the manufacturer) as well as my vet experience. If given at higher doses you can create too toxic an environment and if the bird has an overload of worms it could literally choke the bird to death if all the worms are killed at once. It is much safer to give a lower dose and continue for three days. Besides, I didn't see where the weight of the muscovy was posted at all. I was using an average weight of an adult female muscovy of 6 pounds and adding extra due to the lower body weight of a duck compared to a hooved animal.
In the case of peafowl, however it is usually given in one acute dose on a regular schedule because peafowl are not easily handled or handled often. This is one point of contention that people get confused with. Different rules apply to different birds.
@Miss Lydia is correct in the chance of string or something being ingested could cause a blockage. As well as too much stringy grass especially without a good source of grit.

One other point that should be noted is this: As soon as any bird is placed on soil they can get worms. Or if they are with a parent bird infected with worms they can get them from the parent even in a closed environment. It has nothing to do with age. I worm all my birds once a quarter regardless of the situation or the age of the bird. It's all a practice of good healthy animal management. And some birds can be hatched with worms already in their system.
My only goal here is to help...... not to argue. Some things will never be agreed on. But my years of practice with thousands of birds speaks loudly. I read so much false information on the forum and unfortunately you can find anything you want to find out there for advice. Much of which is old wives tales and totally off the wall. I did notice that @Miss Lydia says she aims for a certain level per pound. Hats off to her for not saying that you MUST worm at that level. She is giving advice in the right way.
May I ask what the mfg recommendations are and what your vet experience is? If you are a vet, where did you get the dosing info from?
 
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No apologies needed... I understand, I just didn't know the conversation got to a point that being defended was needed?

I truely am grateful for all the help.

For what it's worth, I deworm my ducks with Safeguard at those dosages... I have Calls and we have awful gapeworm here... I worked closely with Kathy (casportpony) about deworming dosages and she literally saved my flock... considerable time, effort, research and hands on experience backs up those dosages... underdosing *can be* more detrimental than overdosing (Safeguard is very safe) as worms *could* build resistance to the dewormer if not dosed effectively... just my opinion...
 
Info on crops:
crop_anatomy-png.1090781

http://fsc.fernbank.edu/Birding/digestion.htm source of this picture:
crop_types_1-jpg.1090776

Duck crop on left
 

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