New 19 week old pullets - signs of stress/not using roosts?

[aart]

Hatch Update:

First chick broke free about 10am this morning now drying making every effort to stand and chirping away (if one chick makes this much noise it will be noisy as more of the rest burst forth). Sister and friend have documented every step with both pictures and videos, have not seen any of them as the process continues and they are glued to the side of the incubator.

BTDT!!

Do you have your brooder ready and warming up?
Best to leave them in the bator as long as possible, 24-48 hours give or take.
But I like to move out the first hatchers once they start getting too rowdy.
I always move them in groups from 2 to 4-5-6, leave 1-2 in bator to cheer on the stragglers.

 

[Ted Brown]

BTDT!!

Do you have your brooder ready and warming up?
Best to leave them in the bator as long as possible, 24-48 hours give or take.
But I like to move out the first hatchers once they start getting too rowdy.
I always move them in groups from 2 to 4-5-6, leave 1-2 in bator to cheer on the stragglers.

Brooder is imagined and have all materials in hand but have work to do to assemble. We got caught with the 1st early hatch and thinking we had 2-3 days before they should be moved from incubator to brooder. Now of course in pressure mode.

The balance of your post is very useful information, we have done a great deal of reading but that seemed to provide basics, nuances like "move in groups" and "leave 1-2" had not appeared.

Much appreciated!

 

[aart]

nuances like "move in groups" and "leave 1-2" had not appeared.

That's my personal technique and opinion.
Some feel they should be taken and and fed within an hour of hatch,
some feel none should be taken out until all have hatched.

had 2-3 days before they should be moved from incubator to brooder.

The 2-3 days thing is how long it takes for the yolk to be absorbed,
so they don't necessarily need to be fed or watered until after that.
I always dip beaks and tap feed on ground as soon as I move them,
have had several not eat or drink for 2-3 days tho.

Now of course in pressure mode.

Nothin' new there, eh?
It'll be fine.

 

[jthornton]

Now of course in pressure mode.

You can start out with a cardboard box or plastic tubby so long as they have the temperature right you have a bit of time before they explode in size!

JT

 

[Ted Brown]

... you have a bit of time before they explode in size!

JT

Said he adding to the pressure. No biggie we will "get 'er done".

 

[NickyS2512]

I received seven 19 week old ready to lay pullets a week ago Friday. Their coop was not ready so i kept them in a temporary non secured cage until last night when they were moved to their new secure coop. I wrapped the temporary cage with tarps each night to help deter predators, I also worried every night until they were moved.

A couple of questions:

1. A person at the store that supplied the pullets maintains that they would be stressed and would take some time to adjust, longer if they were subjected to multiple changes. She said it could be "up to a year" before they would lay.

We are complete novices so have no experience to guide. @jthornton suggested giving them things to keep them occupied; we have done so: treats (fern leaves, fruits, etc.) multiple times per day; a roost bar with ramp on day two; a dust bath (gravel and ash) a couple of days later. We also feed them morning and night and use the opportunity to touch them, talk to them... After a few days they would come to the end of the cage we approached and wait expectantly for whatever we had to offer. After we moved them to the new coop their behaviors did not seem to change, no sign of apprehension/fear, anxious to see what we have brought them, crowding to the opening at the front when we approach, soft cooing (?), occasional clucks.

We think they are fine and adapting well but do not know what the signs of a stressing bird are.

2. They are not using the roosts I have provided rather stay on the floor and either scratch and fling bits about or settle down into the straw looking like they are nesting or at night cluster together in one front corner.

Normal? How do we train them to use the roost (go in after dark and lift/place them on the roost bars)?

Thoughts and input greatly appreciated.

Your coop looks palatial - you are obviously very caring. Your girls will settle in a short length of time and reward you with eggs as days start to lengthen. A year to lay is a ridiculously long time. Best wishes from the UK.

 

[Ted Brown]

Three nights ago one lady made her way up the ramp and was perched on the roost at the top of the ramp playing gatekeeper when we arrived to relocate; the other six crammed in a heap south east corner with one under, three around and two on top.

Last night two up BUT tonight SIX on the roost bars by themselves and the smaller one that usually is the bottom of the heap left on her own. She got moved but to one end rather than the middle, hopefully she gets the drift but if not tonight we will find a place with others on both sides.

They are not stupid and do learn from simple repetition. Tomorrow we will take a G&T before dusk to watch while they make their way up. I saw a thread the other day that said it was great fun to watch them sort out preferred locations, looking forward.

 

[aart]

I saw a thread the other day that said it was great fun to watch them sort out preferred locations, looking forward.

It's interesting for sure to watch the RoostTimeRumble.
Morning can be the same if you can catch it.

 

[Ted Brown]

@aart and

@jthornton made the comment about "explode in size!". I have read that they need to stay in a controlled heat environment for 6 weeks while they feather out but also that the heat should be reduced gradually to encourage feather/down development and get them acclimatized for the winter weather. With luck our weather will hold through November with temperatures above zero during the day and down overnight perhaps below 0C; once we hit December it is a crap shoot - could be beautiful right up till Xmas or could turn cold and get significant snow starting early November and stay (last year).

We want to get the chicks into the coop for the winter and are wondering:

1. Any rules of thumb about space per newborn chick during initial grow out?
2. Correct approach to reducing temperature?
3. We had an early hatch Sunday @ 10am and no sign of another beginning as yet; today is day 20. How long and until what "events" can we leave "Sunday Blackie" in the incubator?
4. My sister has read in passing (no detail) about a "Wool Hen" to introduce as a substitute for the ceramic heat lamp and then accompany them to the coop at the transition. Any thoughts about utility and use; any directions on how to make?

Many thanks!

 

[aart]

On the run this morning....so will be brief.
No to wool hen.
If your're going to make something other than using a heat lamp:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/pseudo-brooder-heater-plate.67729/
Leave first chick in bator until another hatches.

Here's my notes on chick heat, hope something in there might help:
They need to be pretty warm(~85-90F on the brooder floor right under the lamp and 10-20 degrees cooler at the other end of brooder) for the first day or two, especially if they have been shipped, until they get to eating, drinking and moving around well. But after that it's best to keep them as cool as possible for optimal feather growth and quicker acclimation to outside temps. A lot of chick illnesses are attributed to too warm of a brooder. I do think it's a good idea to use a thermometer on the floor of the brooder to check the temps, especially when new at brooding, later I still use it but more out of curiosity than need.

The best indicator of heat levels is to watch their behavior:
If they are huddled/piled up right under the lamp and cheeping very loudly, they are too cold.
If they are spread out on the absolute edges of the brooder as far from the lamp as possible, panting and/or cheeping very loudly, they are too hot.
If they sleep around the edge of the lamp calmly just next to each other and spend time running all around the brooder they are juuuust right!

The lamp is best at one end of the brooder with food/water at the other cooler end of the brooder, so they can get away from the heat or be under it as needed. Wattage of 'heat' bulb depends on size of brooder and ambient temperature of room brooder is in. Regular incandescent bulbs can be used, you might not need a 'heat bulb'. If you do use a heat bulb make sure it's specifically for poultry, some heat bulbs for food have teflon coatings that can kill birds. You can get red colored incandescent bulbs at a reptile supply source. A dimmer extension cord is an excellent way to adjust the output of the bulb to change the heat without changing the height of the lamp.

Or you could go with a heat plate, commercially made or DIY: http://www.backyardchickens.com/a/pseudo-brooder-heater-plate