New to hatching: down and dirty quick guide

[Heartsopenwide]

What are some great down and dirty dues and don’ts, must knows, hacks, and guides would you give? Settings, when thing need to happen: cooling mode, lock down, humidity and temp control, etc.

 

[aart]

Here's some light reading for you:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/the-beginners-guide-to-incubation.73350/

https://www.backyardchickens.com/ar...incubator-thermometers-and-hygrometers.73634/

https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/incubation-humidity.73386/

https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/guide-to-assisted-hatching-for-all-poultry.72886/

https://www.backyardchickens.com/th...gs-no-problem.1046313/page-5385#post-16540512

 

[ChickenCanoe]

Temperature is the most important thing. To attain that, you need accurate thermometers. Either guaranteed accurate or calibrated. Without being as close to 99.5F as possible, all else makes no difference.
#2 most important IMO is fresh fertile eggs from hens fed a highly nutritious diet. Layer feed isn't nutritious enough to take embryos to term reliably.
#3 While humidity is important, I rely on measuring weight loss rather than a specific RH%.
If your eggs lose 12% weight through incubation, your humidity was correct.

 

[Birdie mom]

Don't: -Get the eggs wet
- Use really dirty eggs
-Use cracked eggs
- Use thin eggs
-Take wet chicks out of the incubator
-Handle chicks too much (I know, its tempting)
- Let the temp drop or soar
- Open incubator for more than a few min
- Let the electricity go out
-Use a big trough of water for chicks, they can drown
-Constantly handle chicks (they need to nap)
- Keep food or water in the incubator (messy)
- Help chicks out of their eggs unless they are obviously struggling or seem weak
- Mix young chicks with bigger birds


Do: -Use clean eggs
-Use eggs from hens you know the roosters like
-99-100 degree F
-50-60 humidity
- Keep newly hatched chicks warm
- Remove rotten eggs (aka stink bombs. Don't drop them)
-Use new eggs that haven't been washed
-Change bedding when it starts to either stink, or get damp
- Make sure the heat lamp is secured (they can start fires if it drops)
- Separate injured chicks
-Keep a thermometer in the incubator (or a incubator that has one built in)
- When in doubt, consult the BYC

 

[Kiki]

Do not trust the reading on the built-in thermometer or humidity gauge.


#1 make sure you know your bator before you set eggs.
Know what the temperature is, at one glace, in a few different spots.
#2. Have multiple calibrated thermometers.
#3 Make sure you have assault tested humidity gauge

 

[Heartsopenwide]

Here's some light reading for you:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/the-beginners-guide-to-incubation.73350/

https://www.backyardchickens.com/ar...incubator-thermometers-and-hygrometers.73634/

https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/incubation-humidity.73386/

https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/guide-to-assisted-hatching-for-all-poultry.72886/

https://www.backyardchickens.com/th...gs-no-problem.1046313/page-5385#post-16540512

Thank you!

 

[Heartsopenwide]

What kinds of chicks are you planning on getting?

I found woman local to sell me OE, Araucana, and BCM. He has Ayam Cemani, but I already feel like I am jumping in both feet trying for Araucana for a first hatch. He claims his are breed to have a higher hatch rate.

 

[ChickenCanoe]

What kind of food should they be eating?

They should be getting enhanced levels of Vitamins A, D, E, B₂, manganese and the amino acids cystine, methionine and lysine over what is in most layer feeds.
16% isn't sufficient for breeders. However, it is complicated as you will discover by reading the following.
Though uncommon, there are companies that manufacture breeder feed and not just layer feed. The first indication is that they are normally about 17% protein or possibly 18%. The indication here is that you don't have to go crazy with the crude protein percentage. Just bringing the essential amino acid percentage up to where it should be, it only raises crude protein by a percentage point or so.
A bit on protein. Crude protein is made up of amino acids. There are 20 plus amino acids, depending on who's counting. Humans and most animals need all 20 but the body can make some (non-essential) amino acids if provided enough essential amino acids. Depending on some conditions there are 8, 9 or 10 essential amino acids for humans. Among those conditions are the blend of amino acids. Some are easily assimilated but if there is a deficiency of others and they are used up making the others, more AAs come into play as needed for health.
As opposed to humans, chickens have 13 or 14 amino acids that are essential.
Given all that, it is plausible that one can make a high protein feed that is devoid of several essential amino acids. That doesn't create a good feed no matter how many non-essential amino acids make up the crude protein. When there is an excess of some amino acids, they need to be processed by the liver and kidneys which are then excreted as nitrogenous waste. The downside of that is two fold. The chickens aren't getting the nutrition they need yet the excess still creates ammonia in the bedding.
What we as consumers rely on when buying feed is that a manufacturer will make sure by assaying ingredients and final product that there is an acceptable blend suitable for adequate chicken nutrition. That is one reason a labeling requirement in the US is to include the percentage of lysine and methionine on the guaranteed analysis tag on all chicken feed.
Not all nutrients are required to be listed on the guaranteed analysis tag.
Most feed mills don't list vitamins A, D and E. Generally speaking those that do are proud of those numbers but not in all cases.
The nutrient levels not listed should be obtainable by calling the manufacturer.
I hope some of that ramble made sense.

 

[Birdie mom]

What kinds of chicks are you planning on getting?

 

[Heartsopenwide]

Temperature is the most important thing. To attain that, you need accurate thermometers. Either guaranteed accurate or calibrated. Without being as close to 99.5F as possible, all else makes no difference.
#2 most important IMO is fresh fertile eggs from hens fed a highly nutritious diet. Layer feed isn't nutritious enough to take embryos to term reliably.
#3 While humidity is important, I rely on measuring weight loss rather than a specific RH%.
If your eggs lose 12% weight through incubation, your humidity was correct.

What kind of food should they be eating?