Nigerian Dwarf Wether - YOGI is home...PICS on pg 3

[monarc23]

Quote:
atleast about the above part, 1. if the goat looks sick when you go to get it , i wouldnt get it (runny nose, sneezing, over bloated belly etc). However if it looks good and is acting perky and sweet take that bugger home!

I dont' normally do this, but it would be smart to for atleast a week or two keep your newbie away from the other two just to monitor your new goats health maybe get the vet out for some blood tests and what not...make sure theres no lice on the goat, and ask if the goats been wormed if not, worm it ofcourse.

Just remember too even though goats are herd animals, theres normally a dominant goat...and you may have one or both bully your newbie so always keep that in mind...we've never had any goats severely hurt one another but they are rude esp in bad weather and wont let the other goats come into the nice shelter....we dont have goats anymore but those were my experiences

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[helmstead]

I usually quarentine my new goats until I get them UTD on everything and through a cocci treatment. That said, I do this to protect my younger goats (who are more likely to become ill due to immature immune systems). If he's coming from a healthy herd, and you don't see any runny noses or eyes, hear any coughing, etc...you could be okay just introducing him in. If he's coming with health records, you should know where you stand on vaccines and cocci treatments with him.

Still, regardless of the records, when you get him home:

Dose with ProBios daily for a week or so.
Deworm twice at a 10 day interval.
Do your own cocci treatment.

The stress of moving can make rumen upset, can cause a worm load increase, and can also cause a cocci bloom which can still be deadly in a 3 month old.

For safety's sake, you should allow them to all meet through a fence for awhile. Perhaps, if you can, introduce them to each other one at a time, starting with your less dominant goat. He'll be at the bottom of the pecking order, and could be injured.

I gotta know...what's the difference between 'normal' goat feed and Pygmy feed?

All of my goaties are on a 16% medicated pellet. He shouldn't need anything different from what yours are already getting.

 

[MissPrissy]

How cute!!! As sweet as they are I can only do 1 or 2. I want to down size my herd and introduce some angora and cashmere goats into my herd for fiber resources.

 

[ThreeBoysChicks]

Thanks for the advice. I will do my best.

The goat feed that I feed is 16%. The feed that they sell for Pygmy and Dwarf has no cooper in it. The other goat feed does.

What do you think? Should I feed my Nigi (btw - the owner said his name is Yogi like the bear) the regular goat feed?

 

[helmstead]

No copper is a very, very bad thing. Weird. Sheep - they can't have copper, but goats need it.

Yeah, stick with what you have.

 

[ThreeBoysChicks]

Well we went to look at him. Yeah right! Like he was not coming home with us. The lady (Barb) had a beautiful farm, very healthy goats and Delaware chickens. I told her about BYC and told her she should check it out.

I introduced Yogi to the others this afternoon and into the evening. It went very well. Kate you are correct, what he lacks in size, he makes up for in attitude. Here are a few pictures of him. Sorry it was dark when I took them. I don't think his eyes are really blue, but they look that way in the photos. I need to check again tomorrow.

This little guy is definately more of a climber than my other two.

Here you can see that he jumped right in on the feed bucket which had goat food in it.

 

[MissPrissy]

Awww! Toot sweet!

 

[hcammack]

must have goats did barb have an doelings for sale

? I don't think I have $300 to kill but we might just find out LOL

 

[ThreeBoysChicks]

Quote:
She did not, but a breeder that I had found who led me to Barb has a doeling for sale and your right $300 and up.

 

[hcammack]

LOL well I knew some one had to have one my parents said no unless we get rid of the TV and I called their bluff and said throw it out the door