Here are my red sex links that hatched yesterday.
November Hatch -- Who's going to have late fall babies?
- Thread starter Rozzie
- Start date
Here are my red sex links that hatched yesterday.
Those sex links are cute!!! I should have some BCM, Leghorn and Jersey Giants hatching today or tomorrow.
Quote:
Right now, I haven't a clue. I've got ONE more coop to use once all these babies need to go outside, which certain hens ONLY use the nest boxes in which to lay their eggs. It's the very first coop, the A-Frame I built. The younger birds hang out in the ground-level pen, sometimes, because there is a feeder in there, and they like the semi-privacy for taking naps.
So, when I put everybody out there to "grow out" it will be locked off to the layers and players.
It's why I've been thinking about making the 8 x 10 foot shed I'm putting together .... as a coop, y'see.... Half storage, half coop. Except that its original purpose is for the ginormous brooder I've bought and need to pick up... and USE! So it may be a Coop/Brooder where I do store some small stuff....
Right now, I haven't a clue. I've got ONE more coop to use once all these babies need to go outside, which certain hens ONLY use the nest boxes in which to lay their eggs. It's the very first coop, the A-Frame I built. The younger birds hang out in the ground-level pen, sometimes, because there is a feeder in there, and they like the semi-privacy for taking naps.
So, when I put everybody out there to "grow out" it will be locked off to the layers and players.
It's why I've been thinking about making the 8 x 10 foot shed I'm putting together .... as a coop, y'see.... Half storage, half coop. Except that its original purpose is for the ginormous brooder I've bought and need to pick up... and USE! So it may be a Coop/Brooder where I do store some small stuff....
Tanichca
Sparkle Magnet
help out a bit... please?
https://www.backyardchickens.com/forum/viewtopic.php?pid=5151773#p5151773
https://www.backyardchickens.com/forum/viewtopic.php?pid=5151773#p5151773
Quote:
Right now, I haven't a clue. I've got ONE more coop to use once all these babies need to go outside, which certain hens ONLY use the nest boxes in which to lay their eggs. It's the very first coop, the A-Frame I built. The younger birds hang out in the ground-level pen, sometimes, because there is a feeder in there, and they like the semi-privacy for taking naps.
So, when I put everybody out there to "grow out" it will be locked off to the layers and players.
It's why I've been thinking about making the 8 x 10 foot shed I'm putting together .... as a coop, y'see.... Half storage, half coop. Except that its original purpose is for the ginormous brooder I've bought and need to pick up... and USE! So it may be a Coop/Brooder where I do store some small stuff....
Your yard is going to be taken up with chicken coops and huts
Right now, I haven't a clue. I've got ONE more coop to use once all these babies need to go outside, which certain hens ONLY use the nest boxes in which to lay their eggs. It's the very first coop, the A-Frame I built. The younger birds hang out in the ground-level pen, sometimes, because there is a feeder in there, and they like the semi-privacy for taking naps.
So, when I put everybody out there to "grow out" it will be locked off to the layers and players.
It's why I've been thinking about making the 8 x 10 foot shed I'm putting together .... as a coop, y'see.... Half storage, half coop. Except that its original purpose is for the ginormous brooder I've bought and need to pick up... and USE! So it may be a Coop/Brooder where I do store some small stuff....
Your yard is going to be taken up with chicken coops and huts
- Thread starter
- #256
- Jul 14, 2010
- 3,577
- 29
- 181
3:30 Yesterday afternoon:
Same chick, last night when I took him out to put him in the brooder:
By 9:30 or so this morning:
I had to take them out in three batches. Quail babies can't wait 24 hours + like chicken babies. They need to eat and drink sooner. They don't have the same reserves.
Problem: Taking out the first one I was hit with an odor. Second & third times into the incubator it was getting much worse.
Obviously, a bad egg. It was getting bad enough it made the hatch more difficult for the next four chicks. They were no longer cheeping or trying to hatch.
So, I made the executive decision to help enlarge pips - and more, if necessary. (Don't berate me for it. I knew the risks.)
Tiny & Boots:
Tiny is, tiny. He had a rough time hatching (though he hatched with only minimal help - enlarged pip). He was very weak and is from a smaller egg.
Boots needed a lot of help. He was the last & was exposed to the stench of the gas longest (I didn't know what egg it was until the very end).
Boots had horrible feet. It was either cull or make boots. I was not about to cull without trying podiatry. So, Boots is now able to walk. He couldn't even get up on his feet before he got his little Pokemon bandaids. (Yes. My son is 16 and I still have Pokeman bandaids that have been in the first aid kit for 9 or 10 years. Figured it was a good time to use some of them. Plus, they are small & the rest of mine are the waterproof type. I don't want to use those as they'd be too hard to remove.)
Everyone except Tiny & Boots (they were still in the "Hospital." I had just moved the other three late hatchers over to the main brooder.)
Tiny & Boots were very upset that their three buddies went away to the main brooder. Tiny wouldn't stop screaming. So, Tiny got moved to the main brooder. Then, Boots was by himself & didn't like that much. So, I moved him over too since he was walking better. I have been watching that they don't pick on him. I moved the hospital brooder light over to warm a larger area after this picture. They are spread out better now but I haven't taken another picture.
Here they are now that I gave them a second light to help warm them more:
Same chick, last night when I took him out to put him in the brooder:
By 9:30 or so this morning:
I had to take them out in three batches. Quail babies can't wait 24 hours + like chicken babies. They need to eat and drink sooner. They don't have the same reserves.
Problem: Taking out the first one I was hit with an odor. Second & third times into the incubator it was getting much worse.
Obviously, a bad egg. It was getting bad enough it made the hatch more difficult for the next four chicks. They were no longer cheeping or trying to hatch.
So, I made the executive decision to help enlarge pips - and more, if necessary. (Don't berate me for it. I knew the risks.)
Tiny & Boots:
Tiny is, tiny. He had a rough time hatching (though he hatched with only minimal help - enlarged pip). He was very weak and is from a smaller egg.
Boots needed a lot of help. He was the last & was exposed to the stench of the gas longest (I didn't know what egg it was until the very end).
Boots had horrible feet. It was either cull or make boots. I was not about to cull without trying podiatry. So, Boots is now able to walk. He couldn't even get up on his feet before he got his little Pokemon bandaids. (Yes. My son is 16 and I still have Pokeman bandaids that have been in the first aid kit for 9 or 10 years. Figured it was a good time to use some of them. Plus, they are small & the rest of mine are the waterproof type. I don't want to use those as they'd be too hard to remove.)
Everyone except Tiny & Boots (they were still in the "Hospital." I had just moved the other three late hatchers over to the main brooder.)
Tiny & Boots were very upset that their three buddies went away to the main brooder. Tiny wouldn't stop screaming. So, Tiny got moved to the main brooder. Then, Boots was by himself & didn't like that much. So, I moved him over too since he was walking better. I have been watching that they don't pick on him. I moved the hospital brooder light over to warm a larger area after this picture. They are spread out better now but I haven't taken another picture.
Here they are now that I gave them a second light to help warm them more:
Last edited:
Babies from my first hatch are due on the 23rd! I'm so excited!
so, during lockdown, I can't open it up to get out any babies? What if one hatches on the 20th? Do i just leave them all in there until the 23rd?
That will be tough!
so, during lockdown, I can't open it up to get out any babies? What if one hatches on the 20th? Do i just leave them all in there until the 23rd?
That will be tough!
Quote:
I'm surprised nobody has helped you out. I'll give it a shot.
1: will i need a thermometer or something to check the temp at?
2: what is the "ideal" temperature?
3: Humidity? How much? how to make it humid?
4: Will i need something to keep the eggs propped up?
5: How often do i turn the eggs?
6: How many eggs do you think this incubator will hold?
You will need a thermomet and a hydrometer and Walmart sells one that I use. It's small and white and digital and does both. I just lay it in the bators under a window. They cost about $7 at Walmart.
Chickens should be 99.5 degrees but myself and others keep it at different temperatures. What works best for you. I like mine between 100.2 and 100.6. Some times it climbs or falls but I just make adjustments like i'll cover it with a towel or two or i'll turn on the very small fan that's in the room but not pointing at the bator. Just to circulate the air. I also have my bator sitting up off the table a tad bit for better circulation. I have a domino under each corner. I adjust the humidity by either closing off the the big vent holes or opening them up. If it gets too high i'll open a window briefly to let some out. If the temps hit 102 i'll open the top for about 5 seconds to let some of the heat out and shut it back. Different things to avoid touching the thermostat control. The humidity should stay around 50% for chickens and raise it to 60% during hatch. I don't. I leave mine around 45% to 55%. If it goes below that i'll close up the vent holes or add water, higher and i open the vent holes or open the window for a few seconds to let some out. When they pip, zip and hatch the humidity will go up anyway. If it's too high the chick will drown in the shell before it ever hatches. I would rather have to help out out if it gets stuck than have it drown.
You don't need to keep the eggs propped up, you can lay them on their side. just give them a little roll about 3 times a day. It would be good to put an X on one side and an O on the other so you know they have all been turned right. You can put them in an egg carton with the bottom of the cups cut out for air circulation and prop one side up then the other instead of thurning them. I did that last year and it worked out just fine. You can leave the egg in the carton dring the last 3 days and just don't prop it up anymore or take them out and lay them on the floor. They don't need to be turned at all the last 3 days. I've read the last week is save to stop turning. To get the humidity in the bator you want to use a low dish and put a sponge or a wash cloth in it and fill it with water. You want to get the right temps and humidity before you put in your eggs. You can use a wider dish and/or more sponges. What ever works to get the humidity right. I have a LG and it has water wells and I cut sponges and lay them in each well and a whole sponge outside the well in case I need to get it raised more. I also found that using one of those large syringes for putting juices inside of meat works very well for adding water. You can get the water where you need it without having to move any eggs.
I have no idea how many eggs will fit in your bator. But I suggest that you don't do staggard hatches unless you make another bator to use as a hatcher so you can take the eggs out that are to go in lock down. You want to leave room so you can turn them quickly which if you lined them up so you could just give them a roll the whole row will get turned. The less you have your bator open the better.
When you first put your eggs in the bator after you have stabilized it, the temp and humidity will change. You want to give them time to warm up. Usually 14 hours but not always. The temp may spike after the eggs have warmed up and you will want to get that down to a safe temp. The humidity may also drop so having an extra sponge in there will benefit you then. Just add water to the sponge. I have charts I used to keep track of the temps and humidity everyday and when they got turned, etc. If you pm me with your email address i'll send you a copy. I make a chart for every hatch but I have a turner now and more of a set up than when I first started. I mostly worry about lock down dates and of course i'm a slave to the temps and humidity.
We're working on collecting the parts to make a cabinet incubator and hopefully we will have that for the spring hatches. There are always lots of chicks then and i'll get the quail going again by then also.
I hope I helped. And always keep in mind what works for somebody else doesn't necessarily mean it will work for you. Give advice a shot. IF it don't work don't stick with it. Adjust and combine other opinions to fit your needs.
Good luck
I'm surprised nobody has helped you out. I'll give it a shot.
1: will i need a thermometer or something to check the temp at?
2: what is the "ideal" temperature?
3: Humidity? How much? how to make it humid?
4: Will i need something to keep the eggs propped up?
5: How often do i turn the eggs?
6: How many eggs do you think this incubator will hold?
You will need a thermomet and a hydrometer and Walmart sells one that I use. It's small and white and digital and does both. I just lay it in the bators under a window. They cost about $7 at Walmart.
Chickens should be 99.5 degrees but myself and others keep it at different temperatures. What works best for you. I like mine between 100.2 and 100.6. Some times it climbs or falls but I just make adjustments like i'll cover it with a towel or two or i'll turn on the very small fan that's in the room but not pointing at the bator. Just to circulate the air. I also have my bator sitting up off the table a tad bit for better circulation. I have a domino under each corner. I adjust the humidity by either closing off the the big vent holes or opening them up. If it gets too high i'll open a window briefly to let some out. If the temps hit 102 i'll open the top for about 5 seconds to let some of the heat out and shut it back. Different things to avoid touching the thermostat control. The humidity should stay around 50% for chickens and raise it to 60% during hatch. I don't. I leave mine around 45% to 55%. If it goes below that i'll close up the vent holes or add water, higher and i open the vent holes or open the window for a few seconds to let some out. When they pip, zip and hatch the humidity will go up anyway. If it's too high the chick will drown in the shell before it ever hatches. I would rather have to help out out if it gets stuck than have it drown.
You don't need to keep the eggs propped up, you can lay them on their side. just give them a little roll about 3 times a day. It would be good to put an X on one side and an O on the other so you know they have all been turned right. You can put them in an egg carton with the bottom of the cups cut out for air circulation and prop one side up then the other instead of thurning them. I did that last year and it worked out just fine. You can leave the egg in the carton dring the last 3 days and just don't prop it up anymore or take them out and lay them on the floor. They don't need to be turned at all the last 3 days. I've read the last week is save to stop turning. To get the humidity in the bator you want to use a low dish and put a sponge or a wash cloth in it and fill it with water. You want to get the right temps and humidity before you put in your eggs. You can use a wider dish and/or more sponges. What ever works to get the humidity right. I have a LG and it has water wells and I cut sponges and lay them in each well and a whole sponge outside the well in case I need to get it raised more. I also found that using one of those large syringes for putting juices inside of meat works very well for adding water. You can get the water where you need it without having to move any eggs.
I have no idea how many eggs will fit in your bator. But I suggest that you don't do staggard hatches unless you make another bator to use as a hatcher so you can take the eggs out that are to go in lock down. You want to leave room so you can turn them quickly which if you lined them up so you could just give them a roll the whole row will get turned. The less you have your bator open the better.
When you first put your eggs in the bator after you have stabilized it, the temp and humidity will change. You want to give them time to warm up. Usually 14 hours but not always. The temp may spike after the eggs have warmed up and you will want to get that down to a safe temp. The humidity may also drop so having an extra sponge in there will benefit you then. Just add water to the sponge. I have charts I used to keep track of the temps and humidity everyday and when they got turned, etc. If you pm me with your email address i'll send you a copy. I make a chart for every hatch but I have a turner now and more of a set up than when I first started. I mostly worry about lock down dates and of course i'm a slave to the temps and humidity.
We're working on collecting the parts to make a cabinet incubator and hopefully we will have that for the spring hatches. There are always lots of chicks then and i'll get the quail going again by then also.
I hope I helped. And always keep in mind what works for somebody else doesn't necessarily mean it will work for you. Give advice a shot. IF it don't work don't stick with it. Adjust and combine other opinions to fit your needs.
Good luck
Quote:
I leave mine for at least a day or let them dry. I open my bator to get chicks out. I don't like them walking all over the other eggs and rolling them around. When I have quail hatching I usually wait till about half has hatched and I remove them then let the other half hatch. Although I put them all in at the same time it usually takes a few days for them all to hatch.
I leave mine for at least a day or let them dry. I open my bator to get chicks out. I don't like them walking all over the other eggs and rolling them around. When I have quail hatching I usually wait till about half has hatched and I remove them then let the other half hatch. Although I put them all in at the same time it usually takes a few days for them all to hatch.
Quote:
Cute babies and aren't you glad you helped them out. They may have died without it. I help also. I've found with quail if they pip but don't zip they have leg problems and it's either know you have work to do on them to try to keep them alive or let nature takes it's course. I will open the egg if I have to and if there is nothing I can do to help it I cull it right away. I figure it's better than letting it just die inside the eggs. I've helped out more that survived than didn't. Chickens too. I've had some pretty bloody hatchings and they survived are are living healthy and strong. It just takes a little longer for them to recover and a drop of vitamins helps. I try to give them all a fighting chance.
Cute babies and aren't you glad you helped them out. They may have died without it. I help also. I've found with quail if they pip but don't zip they have leg problems and it's either know you have work to do on them to try to keep them alive or let nature takes it's course. I will open the egg if I have to and if there is nothing I can do to help it I cull it right away. I figure it's better than letting it just die inside the eggs. I've helped out more that survived than didn't. Chickens too. I've had some pretty bloody hatchings and they survived are are living healthy and strong. It just takes a little longer for them to recover and a drop of vitamins helps. I try to give them all a fighting chance.
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