Nutritional Needs for Goslings

slatronx

In the Brooder
May 3, 2023
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Hey all! I'm about a week in to raising two adorable little goslings, and I just wanted to be prepared for the coming weeks regarding their feed. Right now, they're being fed Purina flock raiser crumbles (they're being brooded with a group of chicks). It contains 20% protein and 55mg/kg niacin. I've read that too high of a protein percentage as they get older can cause joint problems. At what age do I need to look at giving them a feed with less protein?

Also, if anyone has any advice on how I can get them to stop chewing my chicks' tail feathers, that would be lovely 😅 I try to provide them with clovers and greens to keep them occupied, but they seem intent on trying to eat anything and everything in their path. Fortunately, the chicks don't seem bothered at all, so I know it's not hurting them, I just don't want this to become a habit if I can avoid it.
 

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i believe it is after 4 weeks then you drop to 16% protein finisher (been some time since ive had geese). and the only way to stop them messing with the chicks you'll have to separate them. not all gosling and chicks grow up well together and I've had some issues with the goslings (and even ducks) smothering the chicks by accident
 
I’ve never heard about joint problems due to 20% feed so it may or may not be a thing. Joint problems can occur with high calcium content do to gout from kidney problems, or if there’s another organ health issue going on. For this reason non laying females, males, and juveniles shouldn’t be fed layer feed long term because the added calcium can create problems.
Liver problems can develop from really high protein/ long term obesity.

Another issue is angel wing which has been attributed to too much protein and carbs in their diet while growing. Others argue that it’s genetics and has nothing to do with diet. In my opinion it’s a mixture of both. Differing metabolisms among individuals can process their feed differently, what’s fine for some may not be enough or too much for others.
In a gaggle of 4 goslings I had one start developing, none of the others did, and of all of my 20 geese I’ve had shes been the only one to get it so far, and I feed them 20% Purina flock raiser more or less year round at every age.

Angel wing isn’t really something that can be predicted, if you have a gosling get it but the others seem fine I’d say you probably don’t need to adjust their feed. If you have multiple goslings develop it some adjustment is probably necessary. If angel wing does appear it’s easily fixed by wrapping the wing in the correct position for 3 days “if caught early.” If left alone the twist becomes permanent.
Angel wing itself is actually the twisting of the wrist bones when the first blood feathers are coming in. The weight of the new feathers is sometimes too much for the gosling to hold their wing in a normal position and as the bones are growing they can be warped.
I’ve wondered if not enough protein and calcium can also cause angel wing due to poor weak bone development.


Large breed geese also have higher nutritional needs, so for my Toulouse and for embdens or super Africans 20% is just right, for smaller breeds like Chinese or Romans 20% might be a little too hot. My Roman has never had issues though.
Medium breeds like smaller Toulouse, Buffs and Africans need to be monitored more.

You can also follow Metzer’s guide https://www.metzerfarms.com/nutritional-requirements.html

Personally I think they must keep their large breeds too slim if they follow their own guide. 14% maintenance feed hasn’t been enough to keep my medium to big boys at a healthy weight but different geese do have different metabolisms.

I have two feeding methods, the monitored method and the hands on method.

monitored method.
20% - 22% feed from 0 to 4 weeks.
18% finisher or 18% mixed with 20% from 4 weeks until fully feathered.
20% feed once freezing weather and laying begins. Added oyster shell free choice.
16% to 17% as a maintenance feed when no one’s laying or molting.
20% feed when molting.

hands off method
20% all year, at every stage. Added oyster shell free choice when laying.
With this method you do need to monitor them for obesity and make sure that they get plenty of foraging time and exercise, especially for medium to smaller breeds. If you can’t feel their keel they’re too fat. For “keel-less” breeds thats a little trickier, so you’ll have to weigh them every few weeks or at least monthly.


30% game bird or meat bird feed for when underweight or severely ill, Do not feed this otherwise.
 
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Just wanted to add this if it helps also, a comparison of how 20% feed affects some of my adults based on individual metabolism and personality, which also factors in.


Helios “my biggest French Toulouse gander” averages 17 to 20 lbs. Big eater. Perfect condition, not too thin, not to fat.

Dandelion, medium to large build female “buff x Toulouse” averages 14 to 15 lbs. average eater, perfect condition.

Tuesday, small build female, averages 10 to 12 lbs. “Roman x Toulouse“ bounces between being perfect in warmer months to overweight in winter when she doesn’t get around as much. Average eater.

Apricot, medium to small build female, averages 12 lbs. “American Buff” same as Tuesday in every regard.

Delphi, small build female, averages 10 pounds “Classic Roman.” Perfect condition year round, she‘s a delicate eater.

Friday, large build female, “French Toulouse” Weight ? Definitely Obese. Friday is a big fan of eating but doesn’t care for movement.

Darby, medium build gander “Buff x Toulouse” perfect condition year round.
 
Just wanted to add this if it helps also, a comparison of how 20% feed affects some of my adults based on individual metabolism and personality, which also factors in.


Helios “my biggest French Toulouse gander” averages 17 to 20 lbs. Big eater. Perfect condition, not too thin, not to fat.

Dandelion, medium to large build female “buff x Toulouse” averages 14 to 15 lbs. average eater, perfect condition.

Tuesday, small build female, averages 10 to 12 lbs. “Roman x Toulouse“ bounces between being perfect in warmer months to overweight in winter when she doesn’t get around as much. Average eater.

Apricot, medium to small build female, averages 12 lbs. “American Buff” same as Tuesday in every regard.

Delphi, small build female, averages 10 pounds “Classic Roman.” Perfect condition year round, she‘s a delicate eater.

Friday, large build female, “French Toulouse” Weight ? Definitely Obese. Friday is a big fan of eating but doesn’t care for movement.

Darby, medium build gander “Buff x Toulouse” perfect condition year round.
:goodpost:Really interesting and helpful info - thanks for posting!
 
I've raised geese for more than a few years now, and have never had one develop angel wing - assuming that this is the joint issue OP mentioned - and I feed 21% protein with nutritional yeast. I did have a very fast-growing Muscovy drake develop it, but he was fed a waterfowl-specific feed that I frankly think he liked too much (and his wings corrected with wrapping).

The debate on this will undoubtedly continue, but based on my own experience with waterfowl, I lean toward excessive carbs and genetics being the more likely causes of angel wing, rather than protein %. Goslings are extremely fast-growing animals, and they need an adequate protein intake to support that explosive growth, so I would be cautious about reducing the protein level in gosling feed.
 
Hey all! I'm about a week in to raising two adorable little goslings, and I just wanted to be prepared for the coming weeks regarding their feed. Right now, they're being fed Purina flock raiser crumbles (they're being brooded with a group of chicks). It contains 20% protein and 55mg/kg niacin. I've read that too high of a protein percentage as they get older can cause joint problems. At what age do I need to look at giving them a feed with less protein?

Also, if anyone has any advice on how I can get them to stop chewing my chicks' tail feathers, that would be lovely 😅 I try to provide them with clovers and greens to keep them occupied, but they seem intent on trying to eat anything and everything in their path. Fortunately, the chicks don't seem bothered at all, so I know it's not hurting them, I just don't want this to become a habit if I can avoid it.
I love my grandgeese! :) You'll know when their blood feathers are coming in because they are very heavy and the gosling repeatedly keeps picking thier wings back up so help them to strengthen thier muscles and tendons by running away from them with your arms stretched out and doo zoomies with them :) Once they get into a routine with their zoomies, they will come to you and turn around ready for you to say 'go'!
Also, regardless if your food contains niacin, like people, some need more than others so it they get wobbly legs, sit down more often than usual or loose their balance and fall over, hit them with a niacin suppliment :) It's easier to deal with in the early stages :)
 

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