***OKIES in the BYC III ***

[jcatblum]

Quote:
First off like to say wow on the rooster last night, He was awesome. Didnt get to see the hen you got from Michael but bet she was nice also. OK now the hoop house question. When the temps get down about freezing with the water barrels how warm does it stay and at what point do you cover and turn on heater. Also what type heater do you use. Sorry for all the questions

The temperature is a tuff one. The house gets hotter on a sunny 60 degree day than a cloudy windy 60 degree day. I just use a regular space heater overnight-if we are dropping below 30- I use a propane heater if I am in there working on things at night. But don't want to leave the propane going all night since it doesn't have a thermostat. If we are only dropping below freezing for a few hours I don't cover the plants, but if it is going to be several days where we stay below freezing then I cover the plants & keep the heater going. It is really trail & error. Some tomato plants (like the beef steak) don't seem to mind the cold as much. Others I have had big losses with temperature swings. I know a lady that buys those cheap portable greenhouses that have the cheap metal shelves on both sides (they sell them @ atwoods for about $80 but are about half the price on amazon or eBay) She keeps her plants in the portable greenhouse inside her hoop house. Cold nights she zips up the portable house & puts her space heater in the center of the house-- if that makes sense... Normal days she has the plastic unzipped & pulled back off the portable greenhouse.

 

[NanaKat]

From what I have read and have been told by knowledgeable breeders here on BYC...worming is just a part of raising chickens. All birds will have worms/lice/mites if they are exposed to ground, free-range or have wild bird visitors to their coop.

Some wormers are better for some worms. Almost all poultry will have round worms at one time or another.
I have used Wazine 17 in water or Ivomec administered on the shoulder for worms. Treatment with Wazine followed by one treatment two weeks later of the other. I've also given a drop of Ivomec down the throat if I suspected gapeworm.

Poultry dust with wood ash in a dust box available in the hen house for mites and lice.

In the summer, I have locked the birds out and sprayed and scrubbed all surfaces in the coop and hen house with a good insecticide. Then followed up with a spray of oxine.

 

[Poco Pollo]

Looks like most of the photos are too blurry to bother with. The couple paid for everything, so they prepared all the food, did the flowers, and the bride may even have made her own gown. Everything was beautiful. If you've never been to the cathedral in Tulsa, here's a peek at the altar.

 

[mefordz]

i found this guy's picture on the internet, and thought he looked familiar.

not sure if i have seen him on americas most wanted, or in the litle "convicted" magazine they sell arond here.

if you see him, call someone to help. he is not a nice person, and do not let him babysit your children.

do not let him near birds of any sort, he will not let you keep all your birds if you do!


scary lookin isnt he!

 

[Kassaundra]

Looks like most of the photos are too blurry to bother with. The couple paid for everything, so they prepared all the food, did the flowers, and the bride may even have made her own gown. Everything was beautiful. If you've never been to the cathedral in Tulsa, here's a peek at the altar.

Very ornate, sorry your pics didn't turn out well. Looks like a very cool place for some artsy achitectural photography.

 

[old*cowboy]

Always assume they have worms.If their feet have ever touched dirt, they've been exposed to worms & it's nothing to fool around with. There's no real way to tell except by having a vet do a fecal. I worm & re-worm everyone while they're in quarantine. You can use Safeguard paste or Valbazen, Safeguard's a ton easier to find. A 1/2" ribbon to each bird and repeat 10 days later. Also-there's a 99% chance they've got lice also. It's common like fleas on dogs. You can use 5 drops of Ivomec Eprinex or Frontline (like for dogs) for that and it'll take care of it for months. The people who swear their birds don't have lice, mites or worms are the ones who've either treated them for it or didn't check well enough to see them. DE does *not work to get rid of lice or mites. At most it *may* prevent them but usually not even that. I worked for a vet for a lot of years and I suppose that's why I'm so OCD about the whole debugging/deworming thing.

You are absolutely right on the assume they have worms.
I use zimectrin gold to worm individual birds with. It is a horse wormer that comes in a tube. I put just a real small piece on my finger and then stick it into the birds mouth. I have found it also helps with the external parasites

 

[Cjarvis]

From what I have read and have been told by knowledgeable breeders here on BYC...worming is just a part of raising chickens. All birds will have worms/lice/mites if they are exposed to ground, free-range or have wild bird visitors to their coop.

Some wormers are better for some worms. Almost all poultry will have round worms at one time or another.
I have used Wazine 17 in water or Ivomec administered on the shoulder for worms. Treatment with Wazine followed by one treatment two weeks later of the other. I've also given a drop of Ivomec down the throat if I suspected gapeworm.

Poultry dust with wood ash in a dust box available in the hen house for mites and lice.

In the summer, I have locked the birds out and sprayed and scrubbed all surfaces in the coop and hen house with a good insecticide. Then followed up with a spray of oxine.

wazine for Round worms follow directions based on which wazine you get. Follow up 10 days later with a second round of wormer.
Wazine will only treat round worms, ivermectin pour on injectable or oral will treat all worms and external parasites.
here is an article a friend I co-authored that should be helpfull for everyone with birds.

Poultry Parasites Internal and external:
Index:
Internal Parasites:
Types of worms, Identification, symptoms, and treatment
External Parasites:
Types of external Parasites, Identification, Symptoms, Treatment
Parasite Control Plan

The following pages will discuss internal and external parasites, identification of these parasites, symptoms, and treatments or preventative measures that can be taken.

Internal Parasites: Worms

Common sources of internal parasites within poultry include insects, earthworms, grubs, water, fecal matter, and dirt. No poultry is immune to internal parasite infestations, including those maintained inside and on wire bottom cages. The following pages will detail common internal parasites, symptoms, and treatment options.
The most successful method of treating internal parasite infestations in preventative treatment with commercially available wormers. Common poultry wormers only treat round worms and most individuals use horse, goat, sheep, hog or cattle wormers to treat a broad range of parasites. Treatment is best completed on a regular schedule and at minimum twice per year.

Ascarids (Large Intestinal Roundworms)

Symptoms:
Loss of egg production and pale yolk color and anemia are the biggest signs of a large roundworm infection as well as a loss in weight gain for growing birds. Birds can look depressed and eventually if the infestation is heavy, they can die.

These worms are 5 to 8cm long and live in the middle part of a bird’s intestine. Bad infestations of large roundworms in poultry usually occur when birds are kept in intensive conditions on dirty litter or in runs that have been used for many years. Large roundworm infestations occur directly by birds eating eggs that have been passed out in droppings. These eggs have to be infective which takes 10 days. Once eaten, eggs hatch in the bird’s proventriculus and the larvae move on to part of the intestine called the lumen. A week later, the larvae get into the mucosa, part of the intestine wall and start to cause damage. Occasionally, large roundworms worms crawl up the oviduct and can appear inside eggs.
One of the most common parasitic roundworms of poultry (Ascaridia galli) occurs in chickens. Adult worms are about one and a half to three inches long and about the size of an ordinary pencil lead. Thus, they can be seen easily with the naked eye. Heavily infected birds may show droopiness, emaciation and diarrhea. The primary damage is reduced efficiency of feed utilization, but death has been observed in severe infections.

Specimens of this parasite are occasionally found in eggs. The worm apparently wanders from the intestine up the oviduct and is included in the egg contents as the egg in being formed.

The life cycle of this parasite is simple and direct. Females lay thick heavy-shelled eggs in the intestine that pass in the feces. A small embryo develops in the egg but does not hatch immediately. The larva in the egg reaches infective stage within two to three weeks. Embrocated eggs are very hardy and under laboratory conditions may live for two years. Under ordinary conditions, however, few probably live more than one year. Disinfectants and other cleaning agents do not kill eggs under farm conditions. Birds become infected by eating eggs that have reached the infective stage.
Available drugs remove only the adult parasite. The immature form probably produces the most severe damage. The treatment of choice is peperazine. Many forms of peperazine are produced, and all are effective if administered properly. Peperazine is only effective for treating this parasite. It has no effect on other internal parasites of fowl. Follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully.
Treatment:
The parasite can be controlled by strict sanitation. If the birds are confined, clean the house thoroughly and completely before a new group is brought in. Segregate birds by age groups, with particular care applied to sanitation of young birds. If birds are on range, use a clean range for each group of birds.

Cecal Worms

Symptoms: None

Cecal Worms are very common but don't do much damage however blackhead organisms can live in the worms eggs and cause blackhead many months later. Cecal worms infestations occurs directly by birds eating eggs that have been passed out in droppings following what is known as a direct life cycle.

This parasite apparently does not seriously affect the health of the bird. At least no marked symptoms or pathology can be blamed on its presence. Its main importance is that it has been incriminated as a vector of Histomonas meleagridis, the agent that causes blackhead. This protozoan parasite apparently is carried in the cecal worm egg and is transmitted from bird to bird through this egg.
The life cycle of this parasite is similar to that of the common roundworm. The eggs are produced in the ceca and pass in the feces. They reach the infective form in about two weeks. In cool weather, this may take longer. The eggs are very resistant to environmental conditions and will remain viable for long periods.

Treatment:
The cecal worm can be effectively treated with fenbendazole. Since the worm itself produces no observable damage and the eggs live for long periods, it is advisable and necessary to keep chickens and turkeys separated to prevent spread of blackhead.

Capillaria (Capillary or Thread Worms)

Symptoms: Diarrhea (usually green), pale yolks, anemia and birds looking hunched, wings sagging. Death with large infestations.

There are several species of Capillaria that occur in poultry. Capillaria annulata and Capillaria contorta occur in the crop and esophagus. These may cause thickening and inflammation of the mucosa, and occasionally severe losses are sustained.
In the lower intestinal tract there may be several different species but usually Capillaria obsignata is the most prevalent. The life cycle of this parasite is direct. The adult worms may be embedded in the lining of the intestine. The eggs are laid and passed in the droppings. Following embryonation that takes six to eight days, the eggs are infective to any other poultry that may eat them. The most severe damage occurs within two weeks of infection. The parasites frequently produce severe inflammation and sometimes cause hemorrhage. Erosion of the intestinal lining may be extensive and result in death. These parasites may become a severe problem in deep litter houses. Reduced growth, egg production and infertility may result from heavy infections.
If present in large numbers, these parasites are usually easy to find at necropsy. Eggs may be difficult to find in droppings, due to the small size and time of infection.

Treatment:
Since treatment for capillaria is often lacking, control is best achieved by preventive measures. Some drugs, fed at low levels, may be of value in reducing the level of infection on problem farms. Game birds should be raised on wire to remove the threat of infection. As some species of capillaria have an indirect life cycle, control measures may have to be directed toward the intermediate host. Hygromycin and meldane may be used for control. Additional vitamin A may be of value. Effective treatments that are not approved by the Food and Drug Administration are fenbendazole and leviamisole.

Tapeworms:

Symptoms: weight loss, diarrhea

Tapeworms or cestodes are flattened, ribbon-shaped worms composed of numerous segments or division. Tapeworms vary in size from very small to several inches in length. The head or anterior end is much smaller than the rest of the body. Since tapeworms may be very small, careful examination often is necessary to find them. A portion of the intestine may be opened and placed in water to assist in finding the tapeworms.
The pathology or damage tapeworms produce in poultry is controversial. In young birds, heavy infections result in reduced efficiency and slower growth. Young birds are more severely affected than older birds.
All poultry tapeworms apparently spend part of their lives in intermediate hosts, and birds become infected by eating the intermediate hosts. These hosts include snails, slugs, beetles, ants, grasshoppers, earthworms, houseflies and others. The intermediate host becomes infected by eating the eggs of tapeworms that are passed in the bird feces.

Treatment:
Although several drugs are used to remove tapeworms from poultry, most are of doubtful efficacy. In general, tapeworms are most readily controlled by preventing the birds from eating the infected intermediate host. Tapeworm infections can be controlled by regular treatment of the bird with fenbendazole or leviamisole.

Gapeworms:

Symptoms: Infestation causes respiratory distress. Gasping for breath or 'gaping' as it is known is the biggest sign of gape worm. Shaking of the head and neck stretching are common. When birds are held, gurgling or a 'tracheal rattle' can often be heard. This can often be confused with respiratory infection, if in doubt, check for other signs of respiratory disease. If a heavy infestation occurs, death by suffocation will occur.

The gapeworm (Syngamus trachea) is a round red worm that attach to the trachea (windpipe) of birds and causes the disease referred to as "gapes". The term describes the open-mouth breathing characteristic of gapeworm-infected birds. Heavily infected birds usually emit a grunting sound because of the difficulty in breathing and many die from suffocation. The worms can easily block the trachea, so they are particularly harmful to young birds.

The gapeworm is sometimes designated as the "red-worm"; or "forked-worm" because of its red color and because the male and female are joined in permanent copulation. They appear like the letter Y. The female is the larger of the two and is one-fourth to one inch in length. The male gapeworm may attain a length of one-fourth inch. Both sexes attach to the lining of the trachea with their mouthparts. Sufficient numbers may accumulate in the trachea to hinder air passage.
The life cycle of the gapeworm is similar to that of the cecal worm; the parasite can be transmitted when birds eat embrocated worm eggs or earthworms containing the gapeworm larvae. The female worm lays eggs in the trachea, the eggs are coughed up, swallowed, and pass out in the droppings. Within eight to fourteen days the eggs embrocate and are infective when eaten by birds or earthworms. The earthworm, snails and slugs serve as primary intermediate hosts for the gapeworm. Gapeworms in infected earthworms remain viable for four and a half years while those in snails and slugs remain infective for one year. After being consumed by the bird, gapeworm larvae hatch in the intestine and migrate from the intestine to the trachea and lungs.

Gapeworms infect chickens, turkeys, guinea fowl, pheasants, chukar partridge, and probably other birds. Young birds reared on soil of infected range pens are at high risk (pen-raised game birds). Some control or reduction in infection density (worms/bird) is achieved by alternating the use of range pens every other year and/or using a pen for only one brood each year. Tilling the soil in the pens at the end of the growing season helps to reduce the residual infection. Treating the soil to eliminate earthworms, snails and slugs is possible but the cost is usually prohibitive.

Treatment:
Gapeworms are best prevented by administering a wormer at fifteen to thirty day intervals or including a drug at low levels continuously beginning fifteen days after birds are placed in the infected pens. One drug that is effective for eliminating gapeworms is fenbendazole, however, its use is not presently approved for use in birds by the Food and Drug Administration.

External Parasites:
As with internal parasites, external parasites such as mites, lice, fleas, and ticks can easily infect your poultry whether they are kept inside and well confined or if kept outside. The most common sources of infestations are wild birds, as they often carry mites, lice and fleas. Once again the best course of treatment is attempted prevention. Prevention can be through bathing with a flea, tick, and mite shampoo or dipping and spraying with common insecticides, or treatment with topical agents such as ivermectin or frontline. There are as many solutions as there are individuals who raise poultry.

Poultry Mites
All classes of poultry are susceptible to mites, some of which are blood-suckers, while others burrow into the skin or live on or in the feathers. Others occur in the air passages and in the lungs, liver and other internal organs. Poultry mites often cause retarded growth, reduced egg production, lowered vitality, damaged plumage and even death. Much of the injury, consisting of constant irritation and loss of blood, is not apparent without careful examination.

Northern Fowl Mite (Ornithonyssus sylviarum) which is a frequent and serious pest of chickens. Heavy infestations result in poor condition of the birds and lower egg production, as well as a scabby skin condition. The mite remains on the bird and does more damage than any other species of mite. The mite does not leave the host bird, as do many species of mites, and can be observed on birds in large numbers. It prefers the feathers below the vent and around the tail, but can be found on all parts of the body. The mite is extremely small.
The female northern fowl mite lays eggs on feathers where the young mites complete their development without leaving the host. Since they remain on the fowl most of the time, treatment of the birds is necessary to destroy the mites.

Common Chicken Mite (Dermanyssus gallinae) is the most common mite found on all types of poultry. It is a blood-sucker, and when present in large numbers, loss of blood and irritation may be sufficient to cause anemia. Egg production is seriously reduced.
This mite feeds at night, and usually remains hidden in cracks and crevices during the day. It attacks birds at night while they are on the roost. In heavy infestations, some mites may remain on the birds during the day. About a day after feeding, the female lays eggs in cracks and crevices of the house. The eggs hatch and the mites develop into adults within about a week. During cold weather, the cycle is slower. A poultry house remains infested four to five months after birds are removed.
Since the mite feeds on wild birds, these birds may be responsible for spreading infestations. However, it is more likely that spread of the mite is promoted by using contaminated coops. Human carriers are also important. Since these mites do not stay on the birds during the day, apply treatments to houses and equipment as well as the birds.

Scaly-Leg Mite (Knemidocoptes mutans) lives under the scales on feet and legs of poultry. It also may attach to the comb and wattles. It causes a thickening of scales on the feet and legs that gives the impression that the scales are protruding directly outward, rather that laying flat on the limb. It spends its entire life cycle on the birds and spreads mainly by direct contact.

Depluming Mite (Knemidocoptes laevis, variety gallinae) causes severe irritation by burrowing into the skin near the bases of feathers and frequently causes feathers to be pulled out or broken. The mite is barely visible to the naked eye and can be found in follicles at the base of the feathers. The mites crawl around the birds at times, spreading from bird to bird.

Treatment:
The most effective treatment for all mite species is a regular inspection and spraying program of both the birds and their premises. An appropriate solution of permethrin, when sprayed on the birds, or dipping will eliminate all mites that infest the bird. Bathing a bird with a shampoo containing permethrin is also very effective. The spraying of all facilities will ensure that any mites hiding in cracks and crevices will be destroyed. The treatment should be repeated on a one to two month schedule or whenever populations of the mites are detected.

Poultry Lice
The primary effects of lice on their hosts are the irritations they cause. The birds become restless and do not feed or sleep well. They may injure themselves or damage their feathers by pecking or scratching areas irritated by lice. Body weight and egg production may drop.
All lice infecting poultry and birds are the chewing type. Mites may be confused with lice, but mites suck blood. In general, each species of lice is confined to a particular kind of poultry, although some may pass from one kind to another when birds are closely associated. Chickens usually are infested with one or more of seven different species.
All species of poultry lice have certain common habits. All live continuously on feathered hosts and soon die if removed. The eggs are attached to the feathers. Young lice resemble adults except in color and size. Lice differ in preferred locations on the host, and these preferences have given rise to the common names applied to various species.
In general, the incubation period of lice eggs is four to seven days, and development of the lice between hatching and the adult stage requires about twenty-one days. Mating takes place on the fowl, and egg laying begins two to three days after lice mature. The number of eggs probably ranges from fifty to three-hundred per female louse.

Head Louse (Cuclotogaster heterographa) is found mainly on the head, although it occurs occasionally on the neck and elsewhere. Is usually located near the skin in the down or at the base of the feathers on the top and back of the head and beneath the beak. In fact, the head of the louse often is found so close to the skin that poultrymen may think it is attached to the skin or is sucking blood. Although it does not suck blood, the head louse is very irritating and ranks first among lice as a pest of young chickens. Heavily infested chicks soon become droopy and weak and may die before they are a month old. When the chickens become fairly well feathered, head lice decrease but may increase again when the fowls reach maturity.
This louse is oblong, grayish and about 1/10-inch long. The pearly-white eggs are attached singly to the down or at the base of the small feathers on the head. They hatch within five days into minute, pale, translucent lice resembling adults in shape.

Body Louse (Menacanthus stramineus) of chickens prefers to stay on the skin rather than on the feathers. It chooses parts of the body that are not densely feathered, such as the area below the vent. In heavy infestations, it may be found on the breast, under the wings and on other parts of the body, including the head.
When the feathers are parted, straw-colored body lice may be seen running rapidly on the skin in search of cover. Eggs are deposited in clusters near the base of small feathers, particularly below the vent, or in young fowls, frequently on the head or throat. Eggs hatch in about a week and lice reach maturity within twenty days.
This is the most common louse infesting grown chickens. When present in large numbers, the skin is irritated greatly and scabs may result, especially below the vent.

Shaft Louse or small body louse (Menopon gallinae) is similar in appearance to the body louse, but smaller. It has a habit of resting on the body feather shafts of chickens where it may be seen running rapidly toward the body when feathers are parted suddenly. Sometimes as many as a dozen lice may be seen scurrying down a feather shaft.
Since the shaft louse apparently feeds on parts of the feathers, it is found in limited numbers. It does not infest young birds until they become well feathered.

Treatment:
The same control measures used to eliminate mite populations is effective for treating lice. It is more important to apply the insecticides directly to the bird's body rather than the premises.

Fowl Tick (Blue Bug)
The Fowl Tick (Argas persicus) may be a serious parasite of poultry if it becomes numerous in poultry houses or on poultry ranges. The tick is a blood-sucker, and when present in large numbers it results in weakened birds, reduced egg production, emaciation and even death. The fowl tick is found throughout most of the South and is extremely hardy. Ticks have been kept alive without food for more than three years. The ticks will feed on all fowl.
Fowl ticks spend most of their lives in cracks and hiding places, emerging at night to take a blood meal. Mating takes place in the hiding areas. A few days after feeding, the female lays a batch of eggs. In warm weather the eggs hatch within fourteen days. In cold weather they may take up to three months to hatch. Larvae that hatch from the eggs crawl around until they find a host fowl. They remain attached to the birds for three to ten days. After leaving the birds they find hiding places and molt before seeking another blood meal. This is followed by additional moltings and blood meals.

Treatment:
Ticks are difficult to eradicate and methods employed must be performed carefully. It is not necessary to treat the birds, but houses and surrounding areas must be treated thoroughly.

Chiggers, Red Bugs or Harvest Mites
These pests (Trombicula splendens, Trombicula alfreddugesi, and Neoschongastia americana americana) attack chickens and turkeys, as well as humans. Normally these small mites feed on wild animals, birds, snakes and lizards. Only the larvae of chiggers attack poultry or animals; adult mites feed on plants.
Larvae usually attach to the wings, breasts and necks of poultry. They inject a poisonous substance that sets up local irritation and itching. After a few days, the larvae become engorged and drop off. Injury to grown fowl may not be apparent or noticed until the bird is dressed; then the lesions are readily apparent and greatly reduce the carcass value. Young chickens or turkeys may become droopy, refuse to eat and die. Due to methods of raising poultry, turkeys are more affected than chickens.

Control of External Parasites
There are many insecticides available to help control external poultry parasites. The most effective broad spectrum insecticide is permethrin. Permethrin has a significant residual activity, thus making it ideal for treating facilities and equipment. At reduced concentrations it can be applied to the bird. Follow all manufacturers recommendations when using all insecticides.

Basic Control Plan For All Parasites in Poultry
For all parasites in poultry the most effective method of control is to treat the cause as well as the symptoms. Having a precise plan and establishing a routine is the key to success. Although your area of the country may require some additional steps the following is a basic plan for the control and treatment of all internal and external parasites found to infect poultry.

Environmental Control

• The importance of cleanliness cannot be stressed enough. Establish a regular cleaning routine.
• Consider these things when setting up pens.
• Use wire with small enough mesh to keep wild birds from coming into contact with your poultry, their feed or their water.
• Make door size large enough for you to be able to comfortably reach and clean inside.
• If pens are set up on ground, make them so they are easily movable to fresh ground.
• If indoors all metal cages vs. wood will give mites less places hide.
• Build enough pens to comfortably house the birds so you do not over crowd or mix age groups when growing them out.
• If birds are kept on litter, remove wet spots immediately.
• Spray equipment and pens with an approved insecticide every 6 weeks.
• Control rodent population. Rodent control baits are usually seen in 2 forms. These are pellets and bars. I use a product called Just One Bite. It is in bar form and will cut them about 1 inch long and place them in areas around my pens. They can be placed in a small box with a hole that is small enough for mice and rats to go in but poultry cannot get to it. These can be place in pens if desired.
• Never allow poultry to forage on freshly tilled ground where they may ingest earthworms or other insects that could be carrier hosts.
• Never overcrowd. Change litter when it gets too high of a content of fecal matter or when moving a group of birds out and bringing a new group into the pen.
• Always feed clean fresh feed and give clean fresh water daily. Clean water containers as needed (Usually weekly for me).
• During the molting stages of your birds be sure and remove feathers that your bird have dropped. Leaving these hang around is like putting out a vacancy sign up for mites. They will move in.

Treatment of Birds

• Handle every bird once a week to feel and inspect them for signs of parasite infestations. By knowing what your bird normally feels like, it could tip you off to an otherwise unnoticeable problem.
• My preferred method to remove internal parasites is using a water soluble product in their drinking water. Upon initial treatment repeating it in 10 days will rid them of any parasites that may have hatched from the eggs the first treatment did not get. After this initial treatment I usually set my routine to every 30 days. Upon application, never leave in drinking water more than one day so the next day provide clean fresh drinking water. Some parasites can build up immunity to certain drugs and it would be a good idea to have 2 different products and alternate them from application to application.
• AS mentioned in above section poultry wormers are usually effective for round worms only so by using a product like Ivermectin (either in a pour on or an oral formula) between the worming through their water can serve as a prevention for both internal and external parasites.
• For external parasites I will dip my birds every month, when weather allows, in a 5 gallon bucket with a solution of water and malithion 55%. I mix it 1 tablespoon to 5 gallons of water. Remember, I am using the 55% and it is concentrated so it does not take much and is economical to use. There are other products like permethrin that can be used. The reason I choose malithion is that I keep it around to rid my vegetable garden of pests and see no need to keep an extra chemical around when I can use the same thing. I also use it to spray pens mixing it at the same ratio as I do when I dip. If birds are molting I will dip them once a week. This serves as not only a external parasite control but the extra moisture really helps them put in nice plumage.
• Upon inspection of the bird, if lice or mites are noticed I will apply Adams flea and tick spray. Two pumps at the vent, one under each wing and one behind the neck at the base. I do this early in the day as I have birds that like to sleep with their head tucked under their wing. By doing it early I do not run the risk of birds being harmed by fumes when they go to roost.

Treatment of New Arrivals or Birds Returning From Shows

Most people will provide for a treatment plan or quarantine for new birds that are purchased to be added to a flock, however you should treat any bird returning from a show the same.
While at the show your birds were exposed to the conditions, bacteria, virus, fungus and parasites that may have existed on every bird the judge handled which may be hundreds. The following is a simple and cost effective method I use when either acquiring new brood stock or when returning from shows and has worked well for me.

Prepare two dip solutions; the first is a mix of water and oxine. Oxine is known to kill 99% of all bacteria, virus, and fungus it comes in contact with and will insure you are not introducing a pathogen into your flock.
The second dip I like to use is water and Adams shampoo or dip to bath the bird and rid it of any external parasites. You will want to repeat this treatment 7-10 days later and prior to re-introducing the bird to your flock to insure you have not introduced any external parasites.

Both of the products listed are very cost effective and a critical part in the care of your entire flock. One infected bird can be very costly and time consuming to rectify, prevention is the best cure.
Keep in mind no one treatment works for everyone or for every region and problem but we will all deal with both internal and external parasites to some degree in our dealing with poultry. No one is immune to the effects or infestations of parasites the best we can do is try to minimize the effect.

Education

Contact your local Ag Extension and or college and educate yourself on the more common parasites in your area. It will vary with the section of the country you live in. The internet is also a good source to research these things. Remember that doing all this does not guarantee full time 100% parasite free flock but will keep your birds for the most part from suffering substantial health issues as a result of parasite infestations.

 

[Kassaundra]

For those who are or are about to raise feeder roaches that is the perfect opportunity to give the birds their worm meds. just put the paste on the roach they will gladly eat their meds that way.

 

[Cjarvis]

Thanks, Carl. I only need a few. What do you want for them?

What ever you feel they are worth, I can't use them for dog food bowls, my dogs will play tug with them and break them or eat them. I have no ducks and will not have any ducks, and I do not intend to use them for anything.

 

[Cjarvis]

i found this guy's picture on the internet, and thought he looked familiar.

not sure if i have seen him on americas most wanted, or in the litle "convicted" magazine they sell arond here.

if you see him, call someone to help. he is not a nice person, and do not let him babysit your children.

do not let him near birds of any sort, he will not let you keep all your birds if you do!


scary lookin isnt he!

he looks familiar, I can't quite place where I have seen him. If you are concerned about kids being around him we can test that theory, I have 2 boys I will donate for 2 weeks and if everyone survives then it must be ok.