Opinions on fencing for goats

[BaaKaaawk]

Realized having it installed was outta range for me so doing it myself ( hopefully at least 1 person to help)

One easy and inexpensive way to dress it up that I used at my place was to put 3-rail split-rail fence up (if you are ok with the rustic look) and then just attach the 2x4 wire behind it (which makes it visually all but disappear). The split rail is more than enough support for the fence and you can attach it with large staples (with a hammer). Another nice thing is you can use this look where you see it- and then just go to the normal 2x4 fence with posts when you get where you won't see it (like the woods). I've got 1/4 acre fenced for my goats in the woods and I used the split rail along the woodline facing my house and then the normal metal post look in the woods. Looks great.

I also have an amazing tip on how to make your brand new fence posts look like they have been out there for 20 years (that beautiful silver-gray look) if you want it!

 

[oldhenlikesdogs]

We have some metal posts and some wooden. Wooden ones heave just as much as wooden ones. So you will need to pound them back in too on occasion.

 

[Birdsong 82]

One easy and inexpensive way to dress it up that I used at my place was to put 3-rail split-rail fence up (if you are ok with the rustic look) and then just attach the 2x4 wire behind it (which makes it visually all but disappear). The split rail is more than enough support for the fence and you can attach it with large staples (with a hammer). Another nice thing is you can use this look where you see it- and then just go to the normal 2x4 fence with posts when you get where you won't see it (like the woods). I've got 1/4 acre fenced for my goats in the woods and I used the split rail along the woodline facing my house and then the normal metal post look in the woods. Looks great.

I also have an amazing tip on how to make your brand new fence posts look like they have been out there for 20 years (that beautiful silver-gray look) if you want it!

I’ll take any tips I can get! I know the last fence we put up could’ve been put up a lot better. My husband was helping and decided certain things were unnecessary and overkill and now he is finding out that he was wrong. But sadly after 10 years being together we are Getting a divorce and wanted to keep the house and cause I wanted more land. But this enables me to set it up correctly as I intended to the first time

 

[Birdsong 82]

I was thinking about going wooden for the areas facing the house and yard and then Something a little more cost-effective yet durable for what is in the woods line. The one we have now some of it we used trees as fence posts. There is a strongest fence posts yet

 

[Birdsong 82]

We have some metal posts and some wooden. Wooden ones heave just as much as wooden ones. So you will need to pound them back in too on occasion.

I was thinking about using gravel amd concrete with the wooden posts. Would that help prevent that?

 

[BaaKaaawk]

I’ll take any tips I can get! I know the last fence we put up could’ve been put up a lot better. My husband was helping and decided certain things were unnecessary and overkill and now he is finding out that he was wrong. But sadly after 10 years being together we are Getting a divorce and wanted to keep the house and cause I wanted more land. But this enables me to set it up correctly as I intended to the first time

I don't have a lot of advice here since it is just a fence afterall- but definitely put 1/3-1/2 bag of easy-mix concrete in each post hole so they are super stable. You just hose it down mix it up and bury it and leave it. You need to build the fence as you go (including digging your holes)- if you dig all your holes first they will never line up!

As for staining them / making them look old (this works on all "new wood") - here's a super simple trick that works like a charm and is super cheap to boot-

Mix a plain brillo pad (no soap) with 1/2 gallon of cheap old white vinegar for around 8 hours (just overnight is fine, there is no exact science). You can break the brillo pad up however you need to get it into the vinegar container. In the morning, remove the brillo pad and mix 1/2 gallon of water to the vinegar (note that the vinegar may still be mostly clear or have a grey tint to it). Once you mix the water and the vinegar, stir it up good and that solution will looks like dirty water- but whatever wood that touches will turn grey in a matter of 10-15 minutes. It is super thin, so you just brush it on with a normal paintbrush- be generous with it so it goes in all the cracks and crevices. When you're done- the difference is night and day. Here's my barn I did with this before and after, and then my living room.

 

[EggWalrus]

You need to build the fence as you go (including digging your holes)- if you dig all your holes first they will never line up!

As for stain

The ONLY way to get your fence straight is to dig your holes first! First, always determine where your corner posts will be, if you have enough property, remember to leave enough room between the fence and property line so you can walk or mow comfortably. (Weed eating the whole backside of a fence sux) Next install corner posts with concrete making sure they are plumb. Then pull two strings between the corner posts, one just off the ground and the other at the top of the corner posts.
The ground string is used to keep your pole holes in a straight line. The distance between posts will be determined by what kind of fence you are using. The upper string is used to verify hole depth for your posts. Once you get close to add deep as you think you should be, dry fit a post to see if you need to remove more dirt or if you dug too deep. With metal posts, you can be off quite a bit, then pull a string, and then cut off any excess steel pipe.
But it you try to cut off the excess with pressure treated posts, everywhere you cut the post, you will have to reseal with a water treatment. If you don't reseal each cut, it will rot from the inside out beginning at the cut. (Wood sealer is no where as good as original pressure treatment)
With wood fences it is critical to get the post hole depth correct the first time around.

Here is a link on how to install fence professionally. The basic principals all hold true for any kind of fence
http://www.afence.com/ChainlinkInstall/chainlinkinstall.pdf
Good luck !

 

[Birdsong 82]

I will have to check out that link. I planned on setting the corner posts first and then Pulling a string line and marking Out the rest measuring a second time as I go

 

[EggWalrus]

I will have to check out that link. I planned on setting the corner posts first and then Pulling a string line and marking Out the rest measuring a second time as I go

Sounds like a good plan. I usually mark the hole locations with spray paint right over the bottom string, then when I dig, I just put the string behind my heels to get it out of the way. That way you don't have to re-tie it to recheck that the holes aren't all wonky.

 

[oldhenlikesdogs]

I was thinking about using gravel amd concrete with the wooden posts. Would that help prevent that?

We have used concrete. Here winters get bad enough to heave everything every spring as stuff thaws out. Most posts need to be pounded back in. Maybe not every year. It all depends on where they are. You may not have the same problem where you are at.