Peafowl Worming

[KsKingBee]

Gerald, we have to have a talk. The first year I had my peas I was told to worm my birds exactly the way you described here. Two weeks later I had to do a necropsy and here is what we found.



Here is the correct amount of fenbendazole to give, and it is given by weight of the bird, not diluted in water and tossed out.

 

[Bailey1204]

Wow, I don't really have that much space. I'll see if I can figure something out. Maybe expand a bit outwards. I was considering moving the ducks, as we get more this summer, to another building. Maybe I can move the pea's there after the ducks move. That'll end up being 216 square feet if I move them.

 

[Bailey1204]

I'll take your advice and have them outside the run as much as possible. Then once we move the ducks to the other building the pea's can have all the room they want. Also, will they be okay in Winter. How do I care for them in Winter. I live in the middle of Wisconsin right near lake Michigan.

 

[Birdrain92]

I'll take your advice and have them outside the run as much as possible. Then once we move the ducks to the other building the pea's can have all the room they want. Also, will they be okay in Winter. How do I care for them in Winter. I live in the middle of Wisconsin right near lake Michigan.

Indian peafowl are hardy birds. So long as they have somewhere to get out of the elements they usually do fine.

 

[KsKingBee]

Bailey, look at the top of the Peafowl Forum page nd look for the word 'Stickies'. There are three threads there all about basic care of peafowl. It is really good reading, sk al the questions you like, but there is a real treasure trove of info there.

 

[barkerg]

Gerald, we have to have a talk. The first year I had my peas I was told to worm my birds exactly the way you described here. Two weeks later I had to do a necropsy and here is what we found. Here is the correct amount of fenbendazole to give, and it is given by weight of the bird, not diluted in water and tossed out.

Kingbee, Ouch! Ouch! That did not look good at all. You are correct and that is the absolute sure way to treat them. I however use the method I use because it has worked for me so far... (Fingers crossed) and I probably should use that method but, the bulk of my peas are greens that are either high % spauldings or pure as "American" greens can be, in fact Rocking BAB is sending me a pair of their imported bloodline Muticus' tomorrow I only have a few IB varieties that I keep and most of them are free range. Having said all that, they are housed in large pens that are 800sq ft each and my birds are extremely wild especially right now. It would be like an MMA match if I tried to catch them and I am afraid of injuries, not only to the birds but to myself as well, they have long sharp spurs that have put a hurtin' on me in the past due to aggression. In fact, I lost 1ea of my best roosters 1 Jan of this year due to it flying up and breaking his neck and that really hurt me. Im not trying to be stubborn or old school its just the way that works for me so far... I hope I didn't just jinx myself. Thank you for showing me that and I will have to ponder it more in the future. Very good info for all to read, thanks again Kingbee

. Gerald Barker

 

[barkerg]

I'll take your advice and have them outside the run as much as possible. Then once we move the ducks to the other building the pea's can have all the room they want. Also, will they be okay in Winter. How do I care for them in Winter. I live in the middle of Wisconsin right near lake Michigan.

As Birdrain92 just mentioned IB's will be fine in the cold, its the wind they need a break from.

Gerald Barker

 

[DylansMom]

Gerald, we have to have a talk. The first year I had my peas I was told to worm my birds exactly the way you described here. Two weeks later I had to do a necropsy and here is what we found.



Here is the correct amount of fenbendazole to give, and it is given by weight of the bird, not diluted in water and tossed out.

Kingbee,
Ouch! Ouch! That did not look good at all. You are correct and that is the absolute sure way to treat them. I however use the method I use because it has worked for me so far... (Fingers crossed) and I probably should use that method but, the bulk of my peas are greens that are either high % spauldings or pure as "American" greens can be, in fact Rocking BAB is sending me a pair of their imported bloodline Muticus' tomorrow I only have a few IB varieties that I keep and most of them are free range. Having said all that, they are housed in large pens that are 800sq ft each and my birds are extremely wild especially right now. It would be like an MMA match if I tried to catch them and I am afraid of injuries, not only to the birds but to myself as well, they have long sharp spurs that have put a hurtin' on me in the past due to aggression. In fact, I lost 1ea of my best roosters 1 Jan of this year due to it flying up and breaking his neck and that really hurt me. Im not trying to be stubborn or old school its just the way that works for me so far... I hope I didn't just jinx myself. Thank you for showing me that and I will have to ponder it more in the future. Very good info for all to read, thanks again Kingbee

.

Gerald Barker

I fully expect to get yelled at here, but in Gerald's defense, I have a similar philosophy when it comes to worming my Peas. "If it ain't broke.......don't fix it", in my defense please remember I have a hen that is coming 22, and a lot of my main breeders are 10+ to 15+ years now, and I've had these birds since they were young/chicks so I'm not just letting birds die and replacing them. If the birds look healthy, act healthy, and are eating, drinking and pooping normally I put the wormer in the water. I do use double the dose Gerald mentioned for Safeguard in water. I see no reason to stress a healthy bird. Now... if I see any sign that a bird is acting "off", the first thing I do is catch it and start the oral worming for 5 days. Also, anytime I have to catch one for any reason, nail trimming, tail brushing, changing pens, first aid, etc.... they also get an oral shot of safeguard. Fecal samples here have come up positive for small amounts of capillaria, coccidia, and round worm, and we are very diligent about oral dosing all young birds under a year old, but the adults seem to be able to handle it with this routine. Doesn't mean it will work for everyone, but again, I think a lot of Pea keeping involves finding what works for YOU, and watching your birds diligently. With my cancer treatment last summer, I wasn't able to keep as close an eye on them as I like and as a result I lost 2 hens.

 

[KsKingBee]

I fully expect to get yelled at here, but in Gerald's defense, I have a similar philosophy when it comes to worming my Peas. "If it ain't broke.......don't fix it", in my defense please remember I have a hen that is coming 22, and a lot of my main breeders are 10+ to 15+ years now, and I've had these birds since they were young/chicks so I'm not just letting birds die and replacing them. If the birds look healthy, act healthy, and are eating, drinking and pooping normally I put the wormer in the water. I do use double the dose Gerald mentioned for Safeguard in water. I see no reason to stress a healthy bird. Now... if I see any sign that a bird is acting "off", the first thing I do is catch it and start the oral worming for 5 days. Also, anytime I have to catch one for any reason, nail trimming, tail brushing, changing pens, first aid, etc.... they also get an oral shot of safeguard. Fecal samples here have come up positive for small amounts of capillaria, coccidia, and round worm, and we are very diligent about oral dosing all young birds under a year old, but the adults seem to be able to handle it with this routine. Doesn't mean it will work for everyone, but again, I think a lot of Pea keeping involves finding what works for YOU, and watching your birds diligently. With my cancer treatment last summer, I wasn't able to keep as close an eye on them as I like and as a result I lost 2 hens.

I could NEVER EVER yell at you!

Well, except for just now.

 

[casportpony]

Google the MSDS (material safety data sheet) for Safeguard and you will probably see that is says "not soluble in water". I just confirmed this by placing some in water and it settled out fairly quickly.

-Kathy