Pecking order is a pain

[KIMEng]

I'm a new member Hello All!!
Pecking order:
Recently I have noticed our Barred Rock has been picking on our Buff Orpington. essentially pecking at her and pushing her away at morning eating she then goes and lays her egg. This is especially evident at the first morning feed. Although, my Buff is definitely hesitant to go to the feeder when she is around - or even be alone with her.

The girls started laying at 16 wks, end of June, Goldie more regular than the other 2, but the BR is now laying in the morning too and is very grumpy prior to laying the egg.

Retrospectively I have noticed Goldie (my Buff Orpington) was not getting bigger, gaining weight as much as Teriyaki (my Barred Rock) and Sue Ellen (my Silver Laced Wyandotte) were. I think this has been going on longer than I thought. I went and got a bigger feeder at Tractor supply and thought with more spaced between them Teriyaki would not literally peck at her, well that did not last long. I do put Goldie out in the coop first so she can have a good minute or two at the feed before the other girls come in. As Goldie is my favorite bird and I really do not like her getting picked on and I have 4 more 9 wk old (a Lavender Orpington, Blk Jersey Giant, Barred Rock and Buff Polish) I will be introducing to the flock in about 2-3 wks with an established bossy bird-now what to do. Interestingly enough Teriyaki (BR) does not peck at Sue Ellen (SLW) , she is a big girl and I think would not tolerate it. Teriyaki is pretty friendly with us.

First off, I really do not limit their feed, they get the laying pellets-about a cup each , a handful of some dried corn, blk sunflower seeds, raw grain, oyster shell and some grit thrown in. In the afternoon they get what ever leftover veggies or fruit of the day. there is always a bit left over. I don't know if this is because the BR is not letting the Buff eat

Options:
1. Go ahead and get another feeder, but I think this encourages Teriyaki's bad behavior and secludes Goldie more.
2. Quarantine Teriyaki for a day and see if I can reestablish the pecking order-I really don't want pecking order at all but i know that is unrealistic Sue Ellen the (SLW) is really the biggest bird, not sure why she did not take the lead, and while a bit ornery, that is mostly at us.
3. Not sure if I should wait this out?

Any thoughts?
Thanks Kim

 

[21hens-incharge]

Multiple feeders actually really help.

The best way to have multiple feeders is to have a divider where the bossy one can be eating at one but not directly see the other.

When I add new birds I set up the feeders so one is behind a wall of hay bales, plywood or even a pallet on end so that any birds eating there are never trapped. Basically open on both ends.

Some breeds like barred rocks and Wyandotte are more dominant. Your buff Orpington is a more docile breed. That is likely why the barred rock is able to push her around.

I would add a feeder asap and set up "blind spots" where the buff has food and water available but is not in direct sight of the others.

 

[KIMEng]

The girls...........

 

[azygous]

The one thing that encourages a bully chicken's behavior is the bully victim's behavior. As long as the BO allows herself to be bullied away from the feeder and generally be picked on, the bully will be encouraged to continue.

Chicken psychology is a lot like human psychology. Picture a school recess where the small kid is bullied until the moment she realizes she can stand up to the bully. Then the bullying magically stops.

There's a process where you can do this with your chicken victim and she will gain the self confidence to stand up to her bully. It can take anywhere from a day or two to three weeks, but I've never seen this technique fail to change a victim into a chicken that will stand up for herself. https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/chicken-bully-chicken-victim-a-two-sided-issue.73923/

 

[21hens-incharge]

Nice looking birds.

Your Orpington is actually a red sex link. Sometimes sold as a golden comet among many other names.

That would explain her being smaller than expected.

 

[KIMEng]

Multiple feeders actually really help.

The best way to have multiple feeders is to have a divider where the bossy one can be eating at one but not directly see the other.

When I add new birds I set up the feeders so one is behind a wall of hay bales, plywood or even a pallet on end so that any birds eating there are never trapped. Basically open on both ends.

Some breeds like barred rocks and Wyandotte are more dominant. Your buff Orpington is a more docile breed. That is likely why the barred rock is able to push her around.

I would add a feeder asap and set up "blind spots" where the buff has food and water available but is not in direct sight of the others.

Thank you, great ideas. now just to implement! The run of the coop is a bit narrow right now, but we are enlarging from 50 sqft to 200 sqft so I plan on putting some of those blind spots in for our Buff and the new girls along with some elevated perches.

 

[KIMEng]

The one thing that encourages a bully chicken's behavior is the bully victim's behavior. As long as the BO allows herself to be bullied away from the feeder and generally be picked on, the bully will be encouraged to continue.

Chicken psychology is a lot like human psychology. Picture a school recess where the small kid is bullied until the moment she realizes she can stand up to the bully. Then the bullying magically stops.

There's a process where you can do this with your chicken victim and she will gain the self confidence to stand up to her bully. It can take anywhere from a day or two to three weeks, but I've never seen this technique fail to change a victim into a chicken that will stand up for herself. https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/chicken-bully-chicken-victim-a-two-sided-issue.73923/

That is a great article, may have to use this if it does not improve, soon. I do have the ability for a "jail" for Goldie to build her confidence. Thank you

 

[KIMEng]

Nice looking birds.

Your Orpington is actually a red sex link. Sometimes sold as a golden comet among many other names.

That would explain her being smaller than expected.

Just google that and she does favor the red sex link, A LOT! I have a 9 wk Lavender Orpington which I thought must of had massive parents as she is much bigger than Goldie was at that age. Well, regardless she is a sweetheart of a bird and I hate seeing her bullied by my BR.

 

[21hens-incharge]

Just google that and she does favor the red sex link, A LOT! I have a 9 wk Lavender Orpington which I thought must of had massive parents as she is much bigger than Goldie was at that age. Well, regardless she is a sweetheart of a bird and I hate seeing her bullied by my BR.

Nothing wrong with her being a sex link at all. Just good to know so you can know what to expect growth and laying wise.

 

[rosemarythyme]

Pecking order is a normal thing so even though you don't like that your favorite bird is the victim, I wouldn't separate them unless actual damage is being done.

Multiple feeders are recommended... I only have 7 chickens right now but first thing in the morning I put out 3 feed bowls in the run and a dry feeder in the coop. There's a lot of movement as birds go from one to another to be with/avoid certain other birds. By the time the bowls are empty they're pretty full so no reason to fight over food, and after that the dry feeder is fine for the rest of the day.