***PICS*** Hen Stuck in Molt & Sick (Yellow Skin, Orange Comb and Wattles)

[casportpony]

I'm not familiar with capillary worms. I had planned to worm them tomorrow. Will Ivermectin take care of capillary worms as well? The first twin (in the pictures) doesn't look any better, but she is still ranging with the rest of the flock all day. I don't know that she is eating though. Thanks again!

According to this article, no, it does not.
http://www.peafowl.org/ARTICLES/21/

 

[Colorado'sMamaHen]

Capillary Worms, Gape Worms or Respiratory Infection? Her symptoms:

1.) Labored breathing but not wheezing, (I didn't see any obstructions in her throat and she is still breathing with her beak closed)
2.) Comb and wattles are turning purple
3.) Shakes her head occassionally
4.) Sleeps alot
5.) Crop: I'm not quite sure exactly how it is supposed to feel, but it did feel a bit quite empty but a little squishy - Her breath does not smell bad
6.) Droppings: I have not seen her go yet
7.) Eating and drinking: ACV in all waterers. I have not seen her eat or drink firsthand with the exception of yesterday evening

I have not wormed them yet.

Since Ivermectin does not take care of Capillary Worms, should I use the Rooster Booster Triple Action Multi-Wormer (assuming I can find it) for all of them instead just in case? Should I start her on an antibiotic for Respiratory Infection?

This is not the same hen as the original thread.

Thanks so much.

 

[casportpony]

Capillary Worms, Gape Worms or Respiratory Infection? Her symptoms:

1.) Labored breathing but not wheezing, (I didn't see any obstructions in her throat and she is still breathing with her beak closed)
2.) Comb and wattles are turning purple
3.) Shakes her head occassionally
4.) Sleeps alot
5.) Crop: I'm not quite sure exactly how it is supposed to feel, but it did feel a bit quite empty but a little squishy - Her breath does not smell bad
6.) Droppings: I have not seen her go yet
7.) Eating and drinking: ACV in all waterers. I have not seen her eat or drink firsthand with the exception of yesterday evening

I have not wormed them yet.

Since Ivermectin does not take care of Capillary Worms, should I use the Rooster Booster Triple Action Multi-Wormer (assuming I can find it) for all of them instead just in case? Should I start her on an antibiotic for Respiratory Infection?

This is not the same hen as the original thread.

Thanks so much.

I have not used Rooster Booster Triple Action Multi-Wormer and I couldn't find the "active ingredients", so it's up to you... If she were mine I would:

1. Do thorough exam and check for lumps, cuts bruising etc.
2. Dust for mites/lice even if I couldn't see any.
3. Bring inside a provide a heat source.
4. Place food and water nearby.
5. Worm with Safeguard for goats (fenbendazole) at the rate of .5cc/kg my mouth.
6. Weigh.
7. If not eating/drinking, tube feed and maybe give sub-q fluids.
8. Inspect poop.
9. Weigh daily.
10. I might give an antibiotic like Tylan or Baytril.

I would probably also look more closely at the recommended treatment plans for the various parasites. Some plans might call for multiple days of de-worming. If you get the Safeguard, I can look that up for you in one of my veterinary books.

 

[casportpony]

What happened to the original hen?

 

[Colorado'sMamaHen]

Pics of Twin 1 and Twin 2: (Twin 1 is the one this original thread is regarding)

Twin 1: (still yellow skin, orange comb and wattles, looks sickly but runs around and forages, droppings were normal, stuck in molt and/or liver disease issue, inside for 10 days with heat, food, water, antibiotics for 5 days, dusted and wormed)


Twin 2: the one with the labored breathing, resting nestled in a bush:




2 days ago (Post #53) is when the original post derailed to Twin #2 https://www.backyardchickens.com/t/...t-sick-yellow-skin-orange-comb-and-wattles/50
There have been many wonderful suggestions like treating for Capillary Worms, Gape Worms, Respiratory Infection and a fungal infection of the air sacs (Oxine suggested). The other six hens look healthy and perfectly normal.

 

[casportpony]

Pics of Twin 1 and Twin 2: (Twin 1 is the one this original thread is regarding)

Twin 1: (still yellow skin, orange comb and wattles, looks sickly but runs around and forages, droppings were normal, stuck in molt and/or liver disease issue, inside for 10 days with heat, food, water, antibiotics for 5 days, dusted and wormed)

.....................................snip.................................................
Twin 2: the one with the labored breathing, resting nestled in a bush:


..........................................snip............................................

2 days ago (Post #53) is when the original post derailed to Twin #2 https://www.backyardchickens.com/t/...t-sick-yellow-skin-orange-comb-and-wattles/50
There have been many wonderful suggestions like treating for Capillary Worms, Gape Worms, Respiratory Infection and a fungal infection of the air sacs (Oxine suggested). The other six hens look healthy and perfectly normal.

Thanks, I get confused so easily, lol.

 

[casportpony]

FYI, I have a few that are showing similar symptoms to yours and I'm going to try some experiments with them. I'll be trying an aggressive de-worming with fenbendazole first, then I'm going to try the oxine. If I don't see any improvement, I'll try Baytril. I will post the details when I start.

 

[Colorado'sMamaHen]

Do you have any oxine? My local Co-op didn't have any nor had they ever heard of it. I found it online, but only in gallons. Cannot justify it right now.

 

[ronott1]

FYI, I have a few that are showing similar symptoms to yours and I'm going to try some experiments with them. I'll be trying an aggressive de-worming with fenbendazole first, then I'm going to try the oxine. If I don't see any improvement, I'll try Baytril. I will post the details when I start.

Hi casportpony,

You live in California so if one of yours dies, you get free Necropsy service. They will also perform other tests but charge for those. You can send a manure sample in for a float test. It should cost you about $9.00.

If you are close to a Lab, you can drive a sick one in or culling and Necropsy for free.

You won't have to guess about what is wrong. Every small flock (less than 1000 birds) owner in our State should use this service.

Ron


UC DAVIS

http://www.cahfs.ucdavis.edu/index.cfm

The form is here: http://www.cahfs.ucdavis.edu/local-assets/pdfs/StandardSubmissionFormFeb-2011.pdf

You can send dead birds here for necropsy testing. I hope you don't need it, but Debi/PetRock suggested this addition and it's a good one. Thanks Debi and Ron, for the link.

UC DAVIS FEDEX INFO: Their account # is 364343981. If you use their account number you will get to use UC Davis's discount which is up to 70% off. They said that they will bill you for the shipment after you get the report (or at the same time.) Also, FedEx and UPS both ship to the actual lab every day... the Postal Service doesn't.



CAHFS - Davis Laboratory
University of California
West Health Sciences Drive
Davis, CA 95616
Phone: 530-752-8700
Fax: 530-752-6253
[email protected]

CAHFS - San Bernardino Laboratory
Branch Chief: Dr. Hailu Kinde
105 W. Central Avenue
San Bernardino, CA
92408-2113
Phone: (909) 383-4287
Fax: (909) 884-5980
[email protected]

CAHFS - Tulare Laboratory
Branch Chief: Dr. Patricia Blanchard
18830 Road 112
Tulare, CA
93274-9042
Phone: (559) 688-7543
Fax: (559) 686-4231
[email protected]

CAHFS - Turlock Laboratory
Branch Chief: Dr. Bruce Charlton
1550 Soderquist Rd.
Turlock, CA
95381-2204
Phone: (209) 634-5837
Fax: (209) 667-4261
[email protected]

 

[Colorado'sMamaHen]

No, I don't live in California. I live in Colorado.