post your chicken coop pictures here!

You are probably right. I know I was looking at different coops before I went with the shed and the prices were shocking. I definitely wanted a coop I could walk into. I wanted room to keep supplies like food and shavings. I think the shed will work out great. I'll probably end up spending as much as those pricey coops but it will be much bigger with everything customized.
That's exactly what I ended up doing sled483. I, too, needed something I could stand up in, etc. I ended up buying a Lifetime 5x8 shed kit, and a neighbor friend is helping me put it together. Here's a pic of it from online, disregard all the "stuff" that's in the pic...mine will be filled with roosts, nesting boxes, etc.!!!
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That left-side door will remain closed at all times and act as part of the 'wall', I'll just use the right side to get into it. My pop hole will be directly under the window and I'll add one more vent/window on the left side. We're building it right now and at 70 years old I'll tell you...I'M POOPED!!
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That looks like a perfect coop too. I'm only 33 but I'm doing it alone. So I'm going to add 20 years for difficulty! It's a fun project, except it's all I want to be doing all the time! It makes for a very long work day!
 
That looks like a perfect coop too. I'm only 33 but I'm doing it alone. So I'm going to add 20 years for difficulty! It's a fun project, except it's all I want to be doing all the time! It makes for a very long work day!
What appealed to me the most choosing to go with the Lifetime product is that the walls "snap" together, then it's just a matter of using my drill thingie and reinforcing the walls with the screws. Overall I think I'm really going to like this one because it's not metal...it's made out of that new high-tech polyurethane/plastic type stuff. Each wall panel is a "double-wall" construction, too! It comes with a floor, but I'm going to lay down a piece of remnant linoleum for easy cleanup...Good luck with yours!
 
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I don't know about the fluoride but if you let water sit in an open container for 24 hours, the chlorine will be gone. Barring that, and probably a LOT cheaper than bottled water, get a bottle of dechlorinating liquid for aquariums from the pet store (probably sell it at Walmart, etc as well), a tsp removes the chlorine immediately in 25 (50??) gallons of water. With regard to algae, paint the water container black (and protect it from the sun so it doesn't get too hot. Algae doesn't grow well without light. Bruce
 
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Don't know about rats and chicken toes but a weasel will kill them when they sleep by biting their necks and drinking the blood (little vampires!)
 
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zteagirl - It does NOT get cold in Whittier. NEVER. Yeah, I know, 50F is winter coat weather in that area, I grew up in Downey. Here, 50F in the spring time is "Whoo hoo, break out the T shirts!". In the fall it is "time for a wind breaker". In case it comes up (because we all think if WE are cold the chickens will be as well): Chickens have permanent all organic down filled coats. They do not need heat here and they sure as heck don't need it in Whittier!" :D Welcome to BYC all you new people! I joined 2 years ago to research before I got chickens. No better bunch of helpful people and information to be found. Bruce
 
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Typically, the birds WANT to sleep high. Instead of a second roost, put in a short "mid point" board a foot or so out from the upper roost or along the wall to the left of the roost if that is a better location. The smaller birds will use it as a "step" to the upper roost, not to sleep on. The LF might as well. The ramp is much too steep and the cleats are too far apart for any breed to use as a walking "path". Otherwise, nice coop and run! Bruce
 
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Disagree. Your roosts are too low. The birds feel safest up high. Plus, you have lost floor space they could otherwise use. Unless that is one LOOOONNNNNGGGGG coop, you have many more nest boxes than you need for the number of birds you should house in it. Take out the box by the roost and put a roost (2x4 on the flat) across the entire width of the coop at 3' to 4' (depends on roof height) with a mid point 'step' IF needed. LF can fly to 3' with a hop and barely a flap of the wings, higher takes a couple of flaps. I have an Ancona that once landed on my 5'6" wife's head. Most of my birds will fly to the top of a 4' gate in the barn to beg for scratch. Bruce
 
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Only if they are confined in it only at night. A LF is > 1 square foot. Consider living your life a body width away from another person in all directions.
 

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