I have mine hooked up o an add-a-motor and it's been working like a charm for a few years now. Don't know if this link will work.
http://youtu.ube/YjgjHqcrjWo
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Post your Pop Door (and lock) pics
- Thread starter jupitergirl
- Start date
I have mine hooked up o an add-a-motor and it's been working like a charm for a few years now. Don't know if this link will work.
http://youtu.ube/YjgjHqcrjWo
No the link does not work. I did see an old link of it going up and down, but I can't see it very well on my phone, and need to know how to make it. It is great.
ChickityChina
Songster
I used a plastic cutting board from Wal-Mart for the door that slides in a wooden track. Works better than I ever thought it would.
A couple of the door while the coop was under construction. Well, it's still under construction even though the chickens are living in it now.
A view from the outside.
The pulley system connected to the door.
The pulley system anchor point.
I know this post (and thread) are old, but I had to pull this one up since we are in the process of designing and building our coop right now. This idea is spectacular!! I am usually not a huge fan of upcycling or whatever it's called because I am kind of a perfectionist and hate it when things look half-arsed, but this looks seamless! It really looks like a pop-door and you'd never know it was made from a cutting board! Major kudos to you for sharing this! I especially love the fact that it brings another source of light into normally too-dark coops!
kekstrom
Chirping
I agree ^^^ love this. We inherited a used and slightly neglected coop, and it has a slide to side (horizontal) sliding door that is broken. So I figured instead of fixing that, why not just make a nice pop door. They seem to be easier to use and just better overall than what we'd be restoring.
This thread has been a lot of fun to read, not to mention, informative!! My question for those with automated doors, do you have trouble with snow or ice building up during the day and then them not closing properly in the evening? That would be a concern for me.
Also, other than the awesome self locking mechanism I saw, what other way would you be able to weight or secure the door down, so raccoon can't just pry it up/open?
Also, other than the awesome self locking mechanism I saw, what other way would you be able to weight or secure the door down, so raccoon can't just pry it up/open?
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Even though I live with no threat of any heavy snow or ice, I'm sure you can build a roof of sorts over the pop door to keep any snow or ice build up a bay.
Even though I live with no threat of any heavy snow or ice, I'm sure you can build a roof of sorts over the pop door to keep any snow or ice build up a bay.
That's a good idea! My bf already said he was going to build them a front porch. He was joking. hahaha, guess he has to now! Thanks!
After much thought and consideration, here's what we came up with, at least for now.
Guillotine-style door, with pull-cable operated from outside the coop, and metal bar as a predator-protective locking device in the closed position.
First pic shows door from inside, in open position. The stops are necessary to prevent the door from coming out of its rails - this wouldn't have been necessary if we had made the rails higher, but we'd also have had to cut the boards attached to the upper part of the door shorter on either side in order to clear the rails. 6 of one, half dozen the other. These stops are temporary and will probably get replaced with something more permanent. Or at least I'll put one more screw into each. Also, the reason the door doesn't come all the way up to touch the stops when it's in open position is because you need a little leeway to hitch the cable end connector thingo to its screw eye on the outside.
From inside, closed position:
To open it, you have to pull the metal bar out far enough to clear the door, then you can either pull it all the way out or push it back in. Here's a pic from another angle, showing the bar and how it goes through the exterior wall (actually a 4x4 post). It "threads" through a metal bracket thing on the far side of the door to keep it in place - this is mostly necessary for the open position, as you can see here how the gutter through the wood blocks attached to the door gives the bar a groove in the closed position. In open position, there's nothing but the metal bracket thing to hold it in place. Again, not critical, cause you could also just pull the bar out of the coop, but then you'd have to put it somewhere.
What you can't really quite see in the above pic is that there is 1/4" plywood behind the 1x4 that is attached to the coop wall. This allows enough wiggle room for the door to slide easily up and down, even though everything is just fairly rough wood and not acrylic or cutting board or anything.
Here is the door from the outside, closed:
And from the outside, open position, with miss Jackie posing nicely for the camera:
It's a first foray. Likely modifications or at least refinements are to come, but at first blush this seems pretty good, and there's no way any coon can get that thing open from the outside.
Guillotine-style door, with pull-cable operated from outside the coop, and metal bar as a predator-protective locking device in the closed position.
First pic shows door from inside, in open position. The stops are necessary to prevent the door from coming out of its rails - this wouldn't have been necessary if we had made the rails higher, but we'd also have had to cut the boards attached to the upper part of the door shorter on either side in order to clear the rails. 6 of one, half dozen the other. These stops are temporary and will probably get replaced with something more permanent. Or at least I'll put one more screw into each. Also, the reason the door doesn't come all the way up to touch the stops when it's in open position is because you need a little leeway to hitch the cable end connector thingo to its screw eye on the outside.
From inside, closed position:
To open it, you have to pull the metal bar out far enough to clear the door, then you can either pull it all the way out or push it back in. Here's a pic from another angle, showing the bar and how it goes through the exterior wall (actually a 4x4 post). It "threads" through a metal bracket thing on the far side of the door to keep it in place - this is mostly necessary for the open position, as you can see here how the gutter through the wood blocks attached to the door gives the bar a groove in the closed position. In open position, there's nothing but the metal bracket thing to hold it in place. Again, not critical, cause you could also just pull the bar out of the coop, but then you'd have to put it somewhere.
What you can't really quite see in the above pic is that there is 1/4" plywood behind the 1x4 that is attached to the coop wall. This allows enough wiggle room for the door to slide easily up and down, even though everything is just fairly rough wood and not acrylic or cutting board or anything.
Here is the door from the outside, closed:
And from the outside, open position, with miss Jackie posing nicely for the camera:
It's a first foray. Likely modifications or at least refinements are to come, but at first blush this seems pretty good, and there's no way any coon can get that thing open from the outside.
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