Predator proofing open air coop

[Wainbowmudd]

Finally got our open air coop built by some awesome people. It’s solid and fitted with hardware cloth and we added a predator apron. But will these roof slots be a problem? Or these slots inbetween the nest box boards? Also these locks on the nest boxes, you have to life the latch while opening the door, is that racoon proof?? We aren’t using a closed coop to lock them in at night so I need this to be as safe as possible.

 

[Mamatomany123]

Depending on the predators you have, the roof may be a problem. A raccoon will easily figure out that latch also.

 

[Wainbowmudd]

Depending on the predators you have, the roof may be a problem. A raccoon will easily figure out that latch also.

What kind of latches should I get or anyway to make these safer? I noticed you have to hold the latch up as you open the door so maybe it would be racoon proof? I know we have snakes. Should I spray foam the roof holes?

 

[rosemarythyme]

With latches you want something that's 2 step, i.e. a hasp like this https://www.chicksaddlery.com/stanley-heavy-duty-slide-action-gate-latch with with a carabiner fastened through the hole.

Assuming spray foam will stick, I think that'd be sufficient for the roof gaps, as the main concern would probably be small rodents or snakes getting in.

 

[Wainbowmudd]

With latches you want something that's 2 step, i.e. a hasp like this https://www.chicksaddlery.com/stanley-heavy-duty-slide-action-gate-latch with with a carabiner fastened through the hole.

Assuming spray foam will stick, I think that'd be sufficient. I d for the roof gaps, as the main concern would probably be small rodents or snakes getting in.

With the latches on there already you have to turn them then lift them up with one hand while opening the door with the other hand, I feel like that is two steps, right?? If you let go of it to open the door it locks again because it doesn’t stay up. If it were sideways it would stay unlocked but since they are vertical, gravity takes over and locks it again. I’ve never seen these type used vertically but it seems kind of genius??

 

[rosemarythyme]

With the latches on there already you have to turn them then lift them up with one hand while opening the door with the other hand, I feel like that is two steps, right?? If you let go of it to open the door it locks again because it doesn’t stay up. If it were sideways it would stay unlocked but since they are vertical, gravity takes over and locks it again. I’ve never seen these type used vertically but it seems kind of genius??

All I know with the style of latch you have is people have had coons solve them, so they definitely know how to unlock them. If it can undo the latch, and slips it into open position/holds it open while clawing at it, then pushes down on the door with another hand, it could conceivably open it up. I agree that probably sounds unlikely, but if you want to add an another latch for extra security, it couldn't hurt.

 

[Wainbowmudd]

Thank you! Any ideas on the wood gaps?? It’s an odd spot because that’s where the egg box opens hmmm, I can’t foam it Or hardware cloth it there...

 

[NeoHomesteader]

Where the corrugated roofing was sold they sell blocks that fit in there, you are supposed to install them before nailing down the panels. might have something you can use after ward. Chicken wire will work post fact.

 

[Rldad1]

Gaps in the wood are probably OK. The latch is not.

 

[rosemarythyme]

Thank you! Any ideas on the wood gaps?? It’s an odd spot because that’s where the egg box opens hmmm, I can’t foam it Or hardware cloth it there...

Can you measure how big the gap is? Might have to leave that alone... or get creative with some sort of weatherstripping (NOT foam) to try and reduce it a tiny bit. It won't really add much "predator proofing" but I imagine mice would be the only potential problem if the gap is around 1/2" ish, so just having something that makes it harder for them to squeeze in should be good enough.