Preparing Your Flock & Coop for WINTER

[coop410silkies]

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This is what we decided to do for our winter housing!

Very Nice! I did something similar, but not near so finished or big. I used white poly tarp over 1" electrical conduit and used 1/2" plywood for the ends. Two people could put it up in a day, and it didn't cost a lot. With the white tarp, it is light and airy like yours (mostly). Mine held up in 100 mph winds, and with a few improvements, I am eager to put up a few more. They are sooooo much warmer and lighter than my old 10x12 wood coop, and I got a lot of space for my dollar. I am thinking mine will be too hot in the summer - maybe some shade cloth? - mister? - and a determined predator could no doubt get in - maybe a scare wire? - but I've got some time to think about it 'til next summer. Even with two 12"x16" openings in the south end, my coop feels barely ventilated enough. How do you ventilate your coop? Is that a fan at the top of the end panel? Some people roll the sides up in the summer, but I'm reluctant to do that in our high winds.

Can you say more about your coop - like the materials you used and from where you purchased them, construction notes, how you anchored your coop to the ground and the tarp to your frame, how you ventilate it, etc. etc. ?

These are GREAT solutions for winter housing if one has a lot of chickens and the space to house them. Your pictures are very inspiring.

 

[oldhenlikesdogs]

I'm just curious if there's a condensation issue or not, how is it ventilated?

 

[FlippingHills]

Very Nice! I did something similar, but not near so finished or big. I used white poly tarp over 1" electrical conduit and used 1/2" plywood for the ends. Two people could put it up in a day, and it didn't cost a lot. With the white tarp, it is light and airy like yours (mostly). Mine held up in 100 mph winds, and with a few improvements, I am eager to put up a few more. They are sooooo much warmer and lighter than my old 10x12 wood coop, and I got a lot of space for my dollar. I am thinking mine will be too hot in the summer - maybe some shade cloth? - mister? - and a determined predator could no doubt get in - maybe a scare wire? - but I've got some time to think about it 'til next summer. Even with two 12"x16" openings in the south end, my coop feels barely ventilated enough. How do you ventilate your coop? Is that a fan at the top of the end panel? Some people roll the sides up in the summer, but I'm reluctant to do that in our high winds.

Can you say more about your coop - like the materials you used and from where you purchased them, construction notes, how you anchored your coop to the ground and the tarp to your frame, how you ventilate it, etc. etc. ?

These are GREAT solutions for winter housing if one has a lot of chickens and the space to house them. Your pictures are very inspiring.

Thank you! It's working out really well! Ours is 12ft by 30ft roughly. We used treated 2 by 6 boards for the bottoms with fencing plates to connect them. The PVC is 3/4 inch conduit schedule 40. We used 2 10 ft pieces for each half circle. The poly is 11 mil custom ordered from Northern Greenhouse. The poly was by far the most expensive of the whole thing. I believe around $330 for 22 ft by 32 ft but well worth it! It is heavier than a tarp but woven like a tarp. We attached with wood lathe and nails at the bottom of the perimeter. We used very cheap plastic on the end walls because I forgot to order them from Northern Greenhouse but will get it for next year. The plan is to take the poly off once the final frost happens in Spring and then add shade cloth to put over the future vegetable garden that will be planted right in the deep bedding. We are concerned with animals trying to get into the coop, so we will add an electric wire or 2 around the perimeter and hope that deters. We have small basement vents at the top of the coop right now. We are working on the ventilation aspect. The coop isn't air tight but definitely draft free. We will add more vents to the top of the end walls as needed! We are having rather high temps for December (65s) and is does get moist in the coop but at night the moisture moves out. We also aren't at freezing temps at night yet but I am watching for frostbite.

Everything to build the coop was purchased at Home Depot except the poly, which was from Northern Greenhouse (google them). We leveled the perimeter before we did anything and then attached each side of the PVC. We pulled the two pieces together and connected at the top. We also ran PVC through the top and you could add a rib on each side for higher winded areas. We attached those by drilling through both and putting a carriage bolt with a nut on the end through both pieces. We haven't anchored the coop to the ground and I don't know that we will need to. We had some high winds over the last week and it doesn't move. But we may find that to be needed after all!

 

[FlippingHills]

I'm just curious if there's a condensation issue or not, how is it ventilated?

Yes and no. There is moisture collected at the very top of the poly (6ft) high. There are two vents (One not pictured in the pictures) above the doors that are always open. We will add more at the top of the poly if this is a continual issue but there is a very good flow of air through those two vents and the little spaces where the poly connects to the end walls. We shall see though!

 

[oldhenlikesdogs]

I will be curious to how it works out, it always seems like a perfect setup for winter, I would love if you kept us updated. I think you'd find me sitting out there in the middle of winter.

 

[FlippingHills]

I will be curious to how it works out, it always seems like a perfect setup for winter, I would love if you kept us updated. I think you'd find me sitting out there in the middle of winter.

I will try to remember to post an update! It is really nice to sit out there amongst the girls and feed them treats!

 

[coop410silkies]

I will try to remember to post an update! It is really nice to sit out there amongst the girls and feed them treats!

I will be curious to how it works out, it always seems like a perfect setup for winter, I would love if you kept us updated. I think you'd find me sitting out there in the middle of winter.

p

I'm just curious if there's a condensation issue or not, how is it ventilated?

I think condensation CAN be an issue, even here in arid Colorado, and you are right to consider it. Last year I overwintered about twelve large-combed Roos in an 8x12x6 hoop coop that was covered with a vinyl tarp. The coop was not airtight, but it was totally enclosed, with plywood ends and open mesh-covered windows on the south end. The floor was earthen with old hay for bedding, and it never smelled bad; I was pleased with how dry and protected the birds seemed. BUT, every time I checked, there were drops of moisture along the inside "ceiling." All that said, none of these birds developed frost bite, whereas most of my other Roos - those that were allowed to free-range and were housed differently - developed frostbite, some quite severe. So, because vinyl is supposed to "breathe," I have been singing praises for vinyl covered hoop coops.

For various reasons - expense, convenience, availability, durability, etc. - I switched to poly tarps this year. Already this fall, condensation has been forming on the ceiling of my new coop, but no frostbite on the Roo's comb. It's been down in the teens on occasion, and other Roo's are getting frost bitten while they insist on free ranging. If I had another large coop, I would put them all in it and keep them cooped up. It doesn't seem to be true that they know what's best for them. As to the hens: with a clear mesh tarp, and even with a white tarp, there is so much more light and solar gain, I believe their egg laying period is somewhat extended.

It's possible maybe to cut down on the condensation by manipulating the air movement, say by providing vents at the bottom of the coop on the north side,where the cold air will get heated by the droppings and decomposing litter and then rise to exit through vents near the ceiling on the south side. I think, with proper design, beneficial air movement can be created. In my experience with these coops and other plastic ones, condensation happens, and one definitely needs to think about how and where to put the roosts so the combs cannot touch the coop walls and ceiling and are not affected by air movement. Might be some threads addressing condensation in tarp covered coops? I am working on this, too, and will do updates as they happen.

 

[coop410silkies]

Thank you! It's working out really well! Ours is 12ft by 30ft roughly. We used treated 2 by 6 boards for the bottoms with fencing plates to connect them. The PVC is 3/4 inch conduit schedule 40. We used 2 10 ft pieces for each half circle. The poly is 11 mil custom ordered from Northern Greenhouse. The poly was by far the most expensive of the whole thing. I believe around $330 for 22 ft by 32 ft but well worth it! It is heavier than a tarp but woven like a tarp. We attached with wood lathe and nails at the bottom of the perimeter. We used very cheap plastic on the end walls because I forgot to order them from Northern Greenhouse but will get it for next year. The plan is to take the poly off once the final frost happens in Spring and then add shade cloth to put over the future vegetable garden that will be planted right in the deep bedding. We are concerned with animals trying to get into the coop, so we will add an electric wire or 2 around the perimeter and hope that deters. We have small basement vents at the top of the coop right now. We are working on the ventilation aspect. The coop isn't air tight but definitely draft free. We will add more vents to the top of the end walls as needed! We are having rather high temps for December (65s) and is does get moist in the coop but at night the moisture moves out. We also aren't at freezing temps at night yet but I am watching for frostbite. 

Everything to build the coop was purchased at Home Depot except the poly, which was from Northern Greenhouse (google them). We leveled the perimeter before we did anything and then attached each side of the PVC. We pulled the two pieces together and connected at the top. We also ran PVC through the top and you could add a rib on each side for higher winded areas. We attached those by drilling through both and putting a carriage bolt with a nut on the end through both pieces. We haven't anchored the coop to the ground and I don't know that we will need to. We had some high winds over the last week and it doesn't move. But we may find that to be needed after all!

Thank you so much, FlippingHills for all the details of your coop. Like you, I used two 10 foot "grey" conduit for the hoops. I used 1" conduit, but it was so stiff I could not have bent it by myself; I have 3/4 purchased for my next one, and I am happy to learn that it works well for you. Yeah, because the finished size of most tarps is less than their published size, you almost HAVE to custom order a tarp, especially if you want something as durable as yours. My coop is only half as long as yours, ending up at about 15' long, and it was about a foot short of extending all the way down to the ground on the sides. I ended up ripping scrap plywood to 12" widths and screwing them to the conduit hoops and then fastening the tarp grommets to the plywood. It was pretty easy, as was pulling the tarp taught over the plywood ends and securing the grommets with washers and screws. I used some of those tarp clamps to help with this, too. I used PT 2x4's for the bottom framing, for sides only, and these I anchored to the ground with EMT pieces driven through holes drilled through the 2x4's. The coop frame does not budge, even in the highest of winds we've had here. The hoops, though, racked a bit - or a whole lot, depending on your point of view - and while I could fix this one with an appropriately attached heavy guy wire support, it's a serious design flaw I'll have to research for future coops. A modicum of carpentry skills would help here.

I did NOT level the perimeter of my coop, and while the base is secured to the ground, there are gaps here and there under the 2x4's where they warp or my dog or chickens have dug. Air gets in, as well as the little birds, and sometimes it seems more like an aviary than a chicken coop. The plywood ends are done in pieces, and there are seams that expand and contract with the humidity changes. The first day after we put the too-small tarp on - there was a gap of 12" along the bottom of the tarp and the 2x4 to which it was attached - we had a drop in the barometer, and a high wind filled the coop with air and lifted the tarp right off. Right away we fixed the gap with the strips of plywood, and I cut the windows in one end to let the air exit should the coop ever try to puff up again.

Using plywood to extend the sides up a bit might be a good idea. It can give you more options for choosing sizes of standard sized tarps, and the tarp is easily attached to it; AND you can drill holes or add vents for ventilation close to the bottom. Too bad my tarp had to blow off for me to find this out. Plus, I am thinking it will help in setting up a garden in the coop next spring when I free the chickens. I think these coops have a lot of possibility, and I am excited about them.

After thoughts and considerations:
Fastening the tarps to a hoop frame so that there were no gaps or loose edges is essential; it was a challenge for me with these high tunnel structures. The plastic tarp clamps popped off and they seem to get brittle in temperature extremes. Fastening the tarp with lathe and nails is a good idea, and I probably should have done this with my smaller unfinished vinyl tarp, but my poly tarp has grommets and I'm reluctant to put holes in it; so I just screwed through the grommets with sheet metal screws and washers. Ball bungees are probably better, though, and I will probably upgrade to those. Also plan to add more grommets, maybe so they're spaced at 12". All this to avoid the high price of a custom cut expensive covering!
Whenever air can enter the coop, it is essential that provision be made for its exit. Condensation and ventilation are concerns.
Without a frame or rigid support for the ends, the hoops can twist and distort in high winds, especially if the smaller conduit is used.
I am considering incorporating some of the translucent corrugated panels into the plywood ends. We will see.
As you did, FlippingHills, I assembled my hoop frame before bending it and connecting it to the 2x bottom perimeter. It is MUCH easier to fasten the "beam" to the conduit before before the structure is in place. It may be worth considering putting in some upright supports if snow load is heavy and/or the coop seems to sag. I am watching for this in my 15' long coop, but it seems to shed snow rather well, so far.
I am thinking I will leave the poly in place so as to extend the short growing season here. Maybe put shade netting over all in our hot summers.

Well, this has been another long post. Winter housing like yours is so desirable, buildable, and affordable I can't imagine anyone not wanting to have one. They come with special concerns, though, ESPECIALLY in high wind areas and where snow loads and humidity are issues. Am hoping to start some sort of dialogue where people can learn from my experience (and mistakes) and explore what's possible with these coops.

So I'm wondering what I have to do to keep my coop from racking end to end? Do I have to mount it to some sort of heavy post at the ends if I don't want guy wires to trip over, or what? I AM going to research this, and Google Northern Greenhouse. Thanks again for all the details and ideas.

 

[Blooie]

I've been reading these with great interest. We have a gap at the bottom of the east side on ours during the winter to aid with air flow up and out of the openings at the top of the north and south sides. We have no framing on the ends except where the door is. We found that pounding steel posts deeply into the ground keeps the entire structure stable even in 60+ mph winds and sideways snow. No wobble, no twist, no issues with snow load. And no condensation.

 

[coop410silkies]

I've been reading these with great interest. We have a gap at the bottom of the east side on ours during the winter to aid with air flow up and out of the openings at the top of the north and south sides. We have no framing on the ends except where the door is. We found that pounding steel posts deeply into the ground keeps the entire structure stable even in 60+ mph winds and sideways snow. No wobble, no twist, no issues with snow load. And no condensation.

Yeah, gaps at the bottom are not such a bad thing. My dog, I think, has been instrumental in discouraging predators, and they are fortunately no longer a big concern for me. The one coop that twisted and blew over was set up next to the house and was constructed of 1/2" PVC conduit; the west end was not framed, nor did I secure any kind of an end to it; I simply erected a screen of sorts to break the wind and block the snow and rain. The main purpose of this shelter was to provide a large dry area for food, water, and wing stretching for my ever-expanding Silkie population. The east end I left open, too; the idea was to have a "broken" wind flow through the shelter, not to have a gale wreck it. Best laid plans. I used steel stakes pounded through holes in the base. The frame lifted off one of the stakes, and another steel stake was torn from the ground. A better way to have done it would have been to pound in the stakes and screw or bolt them to the frame. 18" are the minimum depth I consider for stout (7/8") steel stakes. It is possible, too, to use metal conduit cut to length; if you predrill these before you pound them into the ground, you will have no trouble screwing them to the coop base to anchor the coop. Saves $$$$$$. So this coop/shelter was hastily and poorly made with lots of mistakes. Even so, it was hard to imagine all the damage that was done to it. This coop is (I've repaired it) about 7' wide by 6' high. I untwisted the frame, anchored it a proper way, and repaired where the grommets tore out. The PVC, though twisted, was easily set back to its original shape, and nothing was broken. I've other open ended shelters made the same way, but at only 4' high, the wind seldom makes them twitch, even unanchored as they are. They are oriented a little differently, and it may be that that makes a difference, along with the lower profile. My other coop of this size and construction is closed on both ends with plywood, and it remains rigid and stable; I think the plywood helps keep it that way, and the fence posts at either end keep it from racking.

I am thinking that you used cattle panels in the construction of your coop? these would definitely contribute to the stability of a hoop coop, many people do it this way, and, in the end, it may undeniably be the best (only) way to go. I am trying to explore methods that don't use these, because I need to have a design that can be built by a single oldish type lady by herself, one that doesn't take much muscle or construction know-how or money. I hope I don't seem too foolish about this.

I secured the tarp around the perimeter by weighing it down with rubble, hay bales, and sand bags. After one season, the very thick vinyl abraded and tore at the corners, wind gained a purchase, and the whole cover unearthed its anchorings and blew off. I just don't seem to be able to comprehend the force of wind when my coop is acting like a giant kite. Don't do it this way. Through these disasters, not one bird got hurt or even seemed to mind: they just kept laying eggs.

I don't deny that my misfortunes are the result of my mistakes; in fact, that's the point. Am hoping, here, that people can learn from them. If I seem cautious or to have unfounded reservations, you can now imagine why. AND it is good to know that things can turn out just right, just like your coop (and outdoor brooder). There is no substitute for doing things the right way, and it behooves one to find out ALL those right ways before (s)he goes off on her great big adventure, as I did go. Luckily enough, I get to have some successes.

When I was a kid, my family took a trip every 5 years across the U.S. to visit my relatives in Massachusetts. Of the things I remember best was Little America in Wyoming, and of Wyoming I remember two things: antelope and wind. I am thinking now, that if anybody knows how to build a coop to withstand harsh elements, you do, Blooie. Were you to actually write the manual, I'd be the first in line to buy it.

My first question is: what kind of a cover do you use, and what do think is responsible for the absence of condensation? Your ventilation system sounds good to me. Do you think it would be a problem in more humid climates? Do you ever have a problem with rain or snow being driven in by the wind? This has been a problem with my state-of-the-art shed professionally installed, and I can't help but think it would raise the humidity in my coop. Do you mind if I pick your brain a little? Or a lot?

Yours in Berthoud