Prospects for growing own rabbit food?

I don't know the rules here for posting links to other forums, but since there are several here who want info on a production rabbit forum go here, in fact, here's a thread on rabbit feeding.
http://www.homesteadingtoday.com/showthread.php?t=377916

Yes, it is possible to raise rabbits without pellets. I've done it.
Grass from your lawn is fine. Cut it when it's about 6 inches. You want any hay to be green and leafy. Your grass will get stemmy by the time it is 12 inches and the nutritional value goes down. Or you can just rig up a "bunny tractor" and let them harvest it themselves.
It is hard to get the production strains to reach their 5 pounds in 8 weeks. Possible, but I've never done it myself. (Actually I've never kept a production strain. Standard and Mini Rex and lots of mutts and raised them till they had a good pelt)From what I understand from those who have is that pellets are very fast and easy for them to eat. They have to spend more time eating hay and grains, so you have more calories being spent on chewing and digesting and have to make up for that.
Don't forget a good mineral! Those little colored salt discs aren't great, but I've heard of good results chipping a chunk off a big deer block.

I am transferring my garden to raised beds and one bed will be for alfalfa. You can grow it small scale, harvest with scissors and stuff it in an empty rabbit cage to dry. I believe it is one of those things that you can feed fresh or dried but not in the withered stage. I'll also be growing comfrey and oats for them, on a very small scale.

I found that if you're going to try a system like this it is best with not too many rabbits, like a trio and their offspring and to keep the buns either right near/in the garden or right outside your kitchen door. Pull weeds - into the rabbit cages. Peel apples for pie - into the rabbit cages. So naturally the less rabbits you have, the easier it is for all of them to get a good variety. It's actually pretty easy to manage if you just have enough rabbits to feed your family, but hard once you get to about 6+ adult breeders (at least this was my personal experience)

About winter, get in the habit of keeping a couple of empty cages and put any extra weeds or carrot tops and things like that in there. When they get full, lay some twine down in a milk crate, put in your dried greens and stomp them down, put in more and stomp them down until you can't get any more in, then tie it into a tight little bundle with the twine. Your mini weed bales will be a good supplement to your alfalfa mix hay. Along with whole grains, kitchen scraps (I always boiled all potato peels before feeding them - don't know if you have to for rabbits but they always cleaned them up), pumpkins, if you eat corn on the cob there is plenty of good left on there for the bunnies and if you grow it you can also do a little plot of feed corn, they'll eat it dry right off the cob. There are lots of things to feed them, it just takes more work and possibly more storage space then pellets.
 
Aloha,

I do not know if you have alot of weeds that you chop or cut but that is a source of costless food for them. If you have a vegetable garden and or peal carrots etc.. that is another way of nourishment that is free for them. My friend who has owned and raised Meat rabbits said that he gives them cane grass, tie leaves, carrot peals, and any excess veggies from his garden. Even Grass clippings. With rabbit pellets, alfalfa, and other edible things he has around his house that are edible for his rabbits. He says that they definitely put on weight that way. The natural things that are out there are often the best too. Like when you let cattle graze they will eat till their hearts' content. So see what you have the only thing that you have to do is collect it. Where we live we have a lot of cane grass and when we had rabbits (pet ones) we fed them that. Boy were they heavy.

Hope this helps...
 
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The deer salt block would seem to be much more cost effective! Does anyone know if it contains all the neccessary minerals for rabbits? What's the difference between the brown ones and the white ones?

RiverOtter, do you tan your own pelts? I've practiced a few times on squirrels. I'm going to trap a rabbit that's been running around here and try its pelt also, but I could use some advice from someone with experience.
 
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Here's what I've heard:

White is just salt
Brown contains minerals
(Red contains iodine)

At least for deer, they are fed at different times of the year.
 
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I don't have an exact analysis of the deer block, but I know that the little round wheels they sell for rabbits (white is salt only, brown is salt + mineral) the brown ones have a high proportion of salt so the rabbit gets enough salt but not enough mineral. They won't overdo the salt just to get enough mineral. The deer block was recommended to me as better then chips off a cattle block which I was using (not that they were doing poorly with the cattle block - that was better then the salt disks) As I understand the deer block has the highest mineral to salt ratio of any of the blocks available. It's been a few years since I've read labels. LOL, go down to the feed store and read labels, it will be years before you need a new block. You might also look at loose mineral.

Oooh, almost forgot! If you are feeding a hay based or homeraised diet - I can't recommend you just X Brand mineral. Your best bet is to get a local blend from your local feed store (as opposed to a big chain) that is formulated for your area. Your area (and all the hay and garden produce in it) may be low in selenium or high in copper and a local mineral will be adjusted for that. If you read labels and decide cattle mineral is fine, be sure it's not a medicated one.

I'm sorry, I actually don't have good tanning advice. I dried or salted them and then sold them to people who tanned. The extra couple of bucks (From .50 for a young normal furred rabbit to $3 for a good rex pelt, color affected price too) more then made it worth it to keep them the extra time. I tried to do one with oak chips just to see how it would turn out, but my dog found it soaking and thought it was The Greatest Thing I had ever done for him!
The rabbits I have now since I've moved, I haven't butchered one in months. I butcher what I don't sell but lately I've been selling all of them. If I can't find someone local to here who wants to buy pelts I'll finally learn to do it myself. I hate wasting them.

edited to add, anything I said about blocks, I mean the mineral blocks, not the salt only blocks
 
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This is why I keep saying read labels, cattle blocks come in a rainbow and even medicated versions. This was part of why the deer blocks were recommended to me, just passing it on with a caveat to look and see.

Basically, rabbit pellets are formulated with a mineral mix that suits the rest of the ration, and a trace of salt. If you're not going to use them, you still need to make sure that your rabbits get a mineral mix that suits the rest of the diet and a trace of salt. This is why a local mix will be best, it's formulated for your area.
 
It would make sense that, in general, of the three (cattle, deer, and rabbit disks) rabbit and deer would be the most similar, since precursors to domesticated rabbits shared the same habitats as deer.
 

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