Pullet keeps fighting cockerel, advice needed

[aliciaFarmer]

No need to apologize. I misread your first post thinking the cockerel was the one injured. Otherwise, I would not have commented on this thread.
Flock dynamics seem to be ever evolving and once you get it figured out, it will change.

That's so true! Until the day she attacked the roo, that girl was a total loner, always venturing out on her own, flying up into the trees and free-ranging solo.

 

[Shadrach]

I think it was a gold star sentence, long winded or not and I appreciate the response immensely. ♡

Each chicken has roughly 33 to 35 sf of run space (plus a few free range or hang out in the trees), and there's a lot of entertainment there, at least in my opinion. I'm sure I could do more. I have climbing and perching "structures" made out of branches, logs and twigs that I change every couple of weeks to keep them interested, leantos to climb and hide under, a zucchini and cucumber stick (I hung a stick tied to a string and put veggies in it so they can peck on it tetherball style, once a week usually), two swings, a ladder, random climbing and hiding spaces like chairs and bins I change and move around, low/medium/high roosts, a compost in the run which they never tire of, crates I sprout seeds under and then move every week so they can attack it/eat it, etc. It's a chicken playground in the making.

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All of what you've said makes so much sense! The two boys are in the youngest group (hatched in July), the girl in question is from the middle group (hatched in June) and the older girls (hatched in late April) have no interest in the boys, though enjoy giving the younger girls plenty of pecks when they're annoyed. I probably, in retrospect, should have gotten a boy from the beginning, huh? I have the Welsummer boy and he has three same aged Welsummer ladies and a Barnevelder boy, also with three same aged Barney girls. I've considered separating the latter four and keeping them in their own tiny little house and separate run to keep the boys broken up, though so far they seem to get along just fine. Granted they're still young, but the Barnevelder is timid and submissive to all elders and the other boy.

I think my biggest error so far was keeping the injured hen separate from everyone for so long -- she was bloody and just keep going back for more. I panicked. I originally asked a few friends and everybody has their own opinions on everything and was told everything from keep them separated for a couple of days to keep them separated for a couple of weeks to regime her. It's now day 3 with yesterday being a complete fiasco when I brought her back. Her wound has been cleaned and I put Pick No More on it, a BluKote equivalent, but all the girls kept chasing/pecking her while she tried to attack the boy again. It sounds like returning her today is best and letting nature take its course, huh? Do you think I should wait until evening roost time? I have to admit I'm pretty guilty of being a helicopter chicken mama. I totally understand pecking order and moodiness and I'm fine with that but once there's blood, that's when I panic.

Again, thank you so very much for taking the time to respond and sharing your wisdom. Much appreciated!

I just want to add that if the wounds are still a bit raw and likely to be pecked at I use this and have for years. Cover the wounds in it, especially good for combs and wattles.
https://www.backyardchickens.com/ar...s-and-injuries-with-stockholm-hoof-tar.74400/
Good luck.

 

[aliciaFarmer]

I just want to add that if the wounds are still a bit raw and likely to be pecked at I use this and have for years. Cover the wounds in it, especially good for combs and wattles.
https://www.backyardchickens.com/ar...s-and-injuries-with-stockholm-hoof-tar.74400/
Good luck.

Thank you so much! That is a fantastic article and looks like a wonderful product. I will definitely order some today. Seems like a must have for all Chicken Keepers, or keepers of any livestock. ♡

 

[alexa009]

Once chickens develop into maturity, (normally 5-6 months) this behavior is absolutely normal. Once a chicken first attacks another one to show off their dominance, it usually won't work out without the other retaliating against the aggressive one. This is all a means of asserting their dominance. I agree with everyone else that separating her is asking for trouble and there will be much worse problems integrating her back into the original flock in the future. As long as you provide adequate space in the run and coop, places like roosting poles or perches to get away, proper nutritional levels in feed, everything should turn out well in a couple of months or so. There are also times where you get a bird in the flock who has an aggressive demeanor and won't work his/her way through the situation and is beating up on the rest of the flock or disturbing peace and sometimes this matter cannot be controlled. Only removing this bird from the flock or finding another home is the only solution.

 

[azygous]

This inexpensive tool gets a bully's attention after you swat them on the butt when they're going after a victim. An ordinary fly swatter is just the thing we flock cops have always searched for. Even though a bully chicken can stir up murderous impulses in us, we don't really wish to injure the darlings.

Seventy-four cents at Walmart, I have several hanging around the coops and runs in handy, quick-to-reach spots. When I see a chicken chasing a more timid one, all I need to do it grab a swatter and hold it up. The effect is immediate. The bully remembers being swatted on the butt once, and they immediately back off. In fact, as you can see, the two roos respect the thing even though neither has ever needed "The Treatment".

 

[chickengeorgeto]

A few days ago my sweet Golden Cuckoo Marans, Rowen (23 weeks old), attacked my Welsummer cockerel, Wren (18 weeks old), for no apparent reason that I could see....

The older pullet attacked your younger cockerel simply because she could. If you give the cockerel enough time he will rise to the top of the pecking order and return the favor simply because he can. This is the default status of male chickens.

 

[aliciaFarmer]

I’m with @azygous on this one.
I don’t separate chickens because of behavior problems unless I know they are never going to return to the flock.
It seems people separate because they are worried about the injuries and the fighting and the stress of it all. In my experience separation just postpones a problem. Eventually these two are going to have to work things out if they are going to live together. If it takes a bit of blood and snot to do it then so be it. Patch up the wounded but most of all, make sure the loser has the space to escape the aggressor.
1000 sq feet sounds a lot; it isn’t for 33 chickens, it’s about the bare minimum.
There is a possible instant solution and that would be to free range them. I assume none of the runs are covered at that size and you say you’re not short of land.

Funny that everyone on here previously said 10sf per chicken of outdoor space was the minimum, not 30+ -- good thing we opted to add way more. I did the math wrong though -- it was 950sf before we last expanded and now it's almost 1300sf plus (which you likely missed) the 800sf duck run which they frequently share, plus a almost 300sf covered enclosure. Yes, some free range, but no, not all as some are disinterested. When I have the money in spring the whole upper 2ish acres will be fenced for all chickens and ducks to free range (we have 3 ducks now and will be adding 3 more in February -- that whole space will become chicken space and the ducks will get new digs and a bigger house).

Since it seems relevant, though off topic, four of these birds are being raised for my friend and will be going to her soon. If either of the babies end up being boys, they too will be rehomed. So 33 could quickly become 27ish.

I appreciate the response about not separating injured chickens. That really does make more sense in the grand scheme of things. It took almost the full first day (afternoon to evening) for her wound to stop bleeding and it didn't feel right returning her then. Pick No More is great at covering wounds but not stopping blood flow, I learned.

 

[Soon2BChixMom]

The minimum for their run space is 10sq ft per bird. More is always better. I think you have plenty of space for your birds and it looks like they have a lot of enrichment activities to keep them occupied.

 

[azygous]

Regarding bleeding wounds, I keep a small jar of corn starch handy to sprinkle on bleeding injuries. Works great. Try it.

 

[aliciaFarmer]

Once chickens develop into maturity, (normally 5-6 months) this behavior is absolutely normal. Once a chicken first attacks another one to show off their dominance, it usually won't work out without the other retaliating against the aggressive one. This is all a means of asserting their dominance. I agree with everyone else that separating her is asking for trouble and there will be much worse problems integrating her back into the original flock in the future. As long as you provide adequate space in the run and coop, places like roosting poles or perches to get away, proper nutritional levels in feed, everything should turn out well in a couple of months or so. There are also times where you get a bird in the flock who has an aggressive demeanor and won't work his/her way through the situation and is beating up on the rest of the flock or disturbing peace and sometimes this matter cannot be controlled. Only removing this bird from the flock or finding another home is the only solution.

Thank you so much. I appreciate the response and advise very much. I'm so stranger to pecking and dominance, but had never had a physically injured bird, surprisingly. My last girls were freakishly and abnormally calm and peaceful.