Quarantine and Introductions

[FirstTimeClucky]

I have a pair of young Silkies, they're about 4 months old. Today someone gave me a 2 year old bantam cochin hen because she's not laying as much anymore.

I know it's a good idea to quarantine any new animal or bird, so I put the cochin in her own cage in a separate room from the Silkies. How long should she be quarantined for?

Second question: how do you introduce a new chicken to the rest of the flock?

 

[TexasSam]

At least two weeks if you can A month. Are they inside pets? When you introduce she needs to stay in A cage for one more week but your silkies need to be able to see her. Last but not least silkies have A reputation for being aggressive to other breeds similar to the way RIR are so you will have to take it slow. She is older and smarter she might become the boss

 

[TexasSam]

Let's see these birds

 

[aart]

A separate room might not be enough, keeping all equipment separate as well managing yourself and clothes from cross contaminating.

BYC Medical Quarantine Article
BYC 'quarantine' search


Integration Basics:
It's all about territory and resources(space/food/water).
Existing birds will almost always attack new ones to defend their resources.
Understanding chicken behaviors is essential to integrating new birds into your flock.

Confine new birds within sight but physically segregated from older/existing birds for several weeks, so they can see and get used to each other but not physically interact.

In adjacent runs, spread scratch grains along the dividing mesh, best if mesh is just big enough for birds to stick their head thru, so they get used to eating together.

The more space, the better. Birds will peck to establish dominance, the pecked bird needs space to get away. As long as there's no copious blood drawn and/or new bird is not trapped/pinned down and beaten unmercilessly, let them work it out. Every time you interfere or remove new birds, they'll have to start the pecking order thing all over again.

Multiple feed/water stations. Dominance issues are most often carried out over sustenance, more stations lessens the frequency of that issue.

Places for the new birds to hide 'out of line of sight'(but not a dead end trap) and/or up and away from any bully birds. Roosts, pallets or boards leaned up against walls or up on concrete blocks, old chairs tables, branches, logs, stumps out in the run can really help. Lots of diversion and places to 'hide' instead of bare wide open run.


This used to be a better search, new format has reduced it's efficacy, but still:
Read up on integration..... BYC advanced search>titles only>integration
This is good place to start reading, BUT some info is outdated IMO:
http://www.backyardchickens.com/a/adding-to-your-flock

 

[FirstTimeClucky]

Let's see these birds

Here you go! The Silkies are about 4 months old.

 

[Kiki]

A separate room might not be enough, keeping all equipment separate as well managing yourself and clothes from cross contaminating.

BYC Medical Quarantine Article
BYC 'quarantine' search


Integration Basics:
It's all about territory and resources(space/food/water).
Existing birds will almost always attack new ones to defend their resources.
Understanding chicken behaviors is essential to integrating new birds into your flock.

Confine new birds within sight but physically segregated from older/existing birds for several weeks, so they can see and get used to each other but not physically interact.

In adjacent runs, spread scratch grains along the dividing mesh, best if mesh is just big enough for birds to stick their head thru, so they get used to eating together.

The more space, the better. Birds will peck to establish dominance, the pecked bird needs space to get away. As long as there's no copious blood drawn and/or new bird is not trapped/pinned down and beaten unmercilessly, let them work it out. Every time you interfere or remove new birds, they'll have to start the pecking order thing all over again.

Multiple feed/water stations. Dominance issues are most often carried out over sustenance, more stations lessens the frequency of that issue.

Places for the new birds to hide 'out of line of sight'(but not a dead end trap) and/or up and away from any bully birds. Roosts, pallets or boards leaned up against walls or up on concrete blocks, old chairs tables, branches, logs, stumps out in the run can really help. Lots of diversion and places to 'hide' instead of bare wide open run.


This used to be a better search, new format has reduced it's efficacy, but still:
Read up on integration..... BYC advanced search>titles only>integration
This is good place to start reading, BUT some info is outdated IMO:
http://www.backyardchickens.com/a/adding-to-your-flock

 

[FirstTimeClucky]

A separate room might not be enough, keeping all equipment separate as well managing yourself and clothes from cross contaminating.

BYC Medical Quarantine Article
BYC 'quarantine' search


Integration Basics:
It's all about territory and resources(space/food/water).
Existing birds will almost always attack new ones to defend their resources.
Understanding chicken behaviors is essential to integrating new birds into your flock.

Confine new birds within sight but physically segregated from older/existing birds for several weeks, so they can see and get used to each other but not physically interact.

In adjacent runs, spread scratch grains along the dividing mesh, best if mesh is just big enough for birds to stick their head thru, so they get used to eating together.

The more space, the better. Birds will peck to establish dominance, the pecked bird needs space to get away. As long as there's no copious blood drawn and/or new bird is not trapped/pinned down and beaten unmercilessly, let them work it out. Every time you interfere or remove new birds, they'll have to start the pecking order thing all over again.

Multiple feed/water stations. Dominance issues are most often carried out over sustenance, more stations lessens the frequency of that issue.

Places for the new birds to hide 'out of line of sight'(but not a dead end trap) and/or up and away from any bully birds. Roosts, pallets or boards leaned up against walls or up on concrete blocks, old chairs tables, branches, logs, stumps out in the run can really help. Lots of diversion and places to 'hide' instead of bare wide open run.

This used to be a better search, new format has reduced it's efficacy, but still:
Read up on integration..... BYC advanced search>titles only>integration
This is good place to start reading, BUT some info is outdated IMO:
http://www.backyardchickens.com/a/adding-to-your-flock

Thanks, that's very helpful! These are my first chickens, but I assumed they'd be territorial. Luckily I have experience bonding rabbits, who are very territorial and sometimes very difficult if not impossible to bond. It looks like I'll have to follow a similar process when it's time to introduce the new hen to the others.

I worked in an animal shelter for a few years and I'm familiar with quarantine procedures. I've rescued many animals at home over the years, nobody gets near the other animals until they're quarantined. I always buy painter's disposable coveralls (the kind with the hoods) and shoe covers, and I wear them when working in one room, removing them as I'm leaving. I have antiviral disinfectant soap which I use to wash hands and arms before working with the animals in the other room. For new birds I improvise a lot of equipment like feeding dishes from jugs, plastic tubs, etc. This way it can all be thrown out after quarantine is over. Even cages and pens are built from enamelled metal cc cubes, which can be dismantled and run through the dishwasher.

Right now I'm suspicious that the Cochin hen may have scaly leg mites but she keeps her fluffy feet firmly tucked under her body. I'm going to give her another 24 hours to settle and then I'll take her out and do a full physical exam. I've already researched cures for leg mites just in case. She's rather dirty and I'm thinking of giving her a bath. I've got insecticide spray for birds if she's got feather lice.

 

[aart]

Luckily I have experience bonding rabbits, who are very territorial and sometimes very difficult if not impossible to bond. It looks like I'll have to follow a similar process when it's time to introduce the new hen to the others.

I worked in an animal shelter for a few years and I'm familiar with quarantine procedures.

You've got the experience/knowledge on both counts then, many don't, you'll do well.

I worked in biological clean rooms(pharmaceutical industry) for 2 decades,
so know cross contamination to the Nth degree.
It's good thing I'm not a germaphobe.... haha!