Questions! Building 5x8 coop

[DoeAndGander]

A few random questions! Here’s a quick interior sketch of my 5 x 8 raised coop I'm building at the moment. For 4 hens... pretty much just to get me through the Minnesota winter.

1. My original thought was spanning the roost/poop board along the west 8’ wall. The thought was wonderful in my head until I realized the 2’ deep board would run into the door entrance maybe I could do an L shape instead? what length will allow enough walk in area without taking out a hip? Technically I could get away with 4’ roost but I’d like to give my ladies as much space as possible. I have yet to do anything on the inside so I’m completely open at the moment.

2. It will be insulated. 3/8 plywood exterior, 2x4 walls, insulation. What would you recommend for interior sheathing? Is 1/4 Luann too thin?

3. 12” is recommend for nest box height within coop, could I get away with 8”? Trying not to get too high with exterior boxes but I could have access out back of boxes instead of top... or grab a stool.

4. The way I have my windows laid out at the moment they will run into the roost/ board height. As long as no drafts, is this acceptable? Or should I look for smaller windows/lower poop boards?

Thanks!

 

[GoldpartridgeHen]

Sounds like you have this sorted

The window should be fine, as long as you don't have any drafts.
Also, (although you haven't mentioned it) what will your perch height be? It should be ample room for the 4 hens, but the height of perches differs for different breeds and for example, a cochin must have a low perch (not more than 30cm)

what are your breeds?

 

[DobieLover]

1. You could make your poop boards 20" wide and center them under the roost. I don't think 2" on each side is going to stop them from catching their "load". That way you can stick with the long 8' roost.

2. 1/4" lauan is fine.

3. I would not cut down on the height. My boxes are 12"x12", 12" at the front and 9" at the back. They work but my girls tails are getting boogered up from being crushed against the edges of the box. And they need to stand up just as they are passing the egg.

4. I have windows one each end of my 8' roost bar. They remain open always during the summer. They can be closed with a hinged top plywood cover. I keep them open with a chain and hook in the summer. You can custom frame you own windows by using the exterior siding and some trim. Just staple HC on the inside. It works great. I would put lots of windows in if you can. Also leave the eave open (backed with HC) and put in a ridge vent if possible.

Good luck with your coop!

 

[DoeAndGander]

Sounds like you have this sorted

The window should be fine, as long as you don't have any drafts.
Also, (although you haven't mentioned it) what will your perch height be? It should be ample room for the 4 hens, but the height of perches differs for different breeds and for example, a cochin must have a low perch (not more than 30cm)

what are your breeds?

For the most part! Just a few things I keep doubting myself on

I was thinking around 3’ for the poop board and roost 5-6” off of that. I was going to put a block or stump to help the heavier ladies up. My flock: 1 - Buff Orpington, 1 - Sapphire Gen & 2 - Easter Eggers

 

[DoeAndGander]

1. You could make your poop boards 20" wide and center them under the roost. I don't think 2" on each side is going to stop them from catching their "load". That way you can stick with the long 8' roost.

2. 1/4" lauan is fine.

3. I would not cut down on the height. My boxes are 12"x12", 12" at the front and 9" at the back. They work but my girls tails are getting boogered up from being crushed against the edges of the box. And they need to stand up just as they are passing the egg.

4. I have windows one each end of my 8' roost bar. They remain open always during the summer. They can be closed with a hinged top plywood cover. I keep them open with a chain and hook in the summer. You can custom frame you own windows by using the exterior siding and some trim. Just staple HC on the inside. It works great. I would put lots of windows in if you can. Also leave the eave open (backed with HC) and put in a ridge vent if possible.

Good luck with your coop!

Good call on the shorter board! Although does that mean I’ll have poo slimed on my windows or poop board edges on a regular basis?! And now that I think of it, that back 5’ wall is facing south. If I were to extend the board along the 5’ wall a foot or two, maybe it will act as a heater in winter? Winter will be great but summer I’d have to put curtains up.. or maybe make the extended portion removable for summer or if I need to use storage portion as a hospital area

Thanks for the rest of your replies!

 

[Acre4Me]

We have a 6x8 coop, so very similar to you. We have more than 4 chickens, so we did a ladder roost. Partly so the chickens could easily get up to the highest roost, and down without injury. We do have 2 full size Black Jersey Giants (the male makes a *thud* when he jumps down off the lowest roost, so it was a good choice to do it this way for our flock. to Maximize space, we placed the door to the side, and put the nest box (2 boxes) to the side of the people door. We put the chicken door as an integral part of the people door. Here are some pics, but some are from prior to getting everything done.

Here are the Jersey Giants (1 male, 1 female) on lower roost. They were only about 4 months old in this picture! They are even bigger now. The coop is elevated about 2.5 feet above the ground and the male (named Jupiter) has to duck to get under the side support beam.

Good Luck!

 

[Brahma Chicken5000]

I think you should move the people door all the way to the right walk and make a chicken pop door across from it that way you will have more room for roosts and your chickens won’t walk through poop to lay their eggs
You can make your roosts span the 8 foot wall

 

[DobieLover]

We have a 6x8 coop, so very similar to you. We have more than 4 chickens, so we did a ladder roost. Partly so the chickens could easily get up to the highest roost, and down without injury. We do have 2 full size Black Jersey Giants (the male makes a *thud* when he jumps down off the lowest roost, so it was a good choice to do it this way for our flock. to Maximize space, we placed the door to the side, and put the nest box (2 boxes) to the side of the people door. We put the chicken door as an integral part of the people door. Here are some pics, but some are from prior to getting everything done.

View attachment 1614356

View attachment 1614357


Here are the Jersey Giants (1 male, 1 female) on lower roost. They were only about 4 months old in this picture! They are even bigger now. The coop is elevated about 2.5 feet above the ground and the male (named Jupiter) has to duck to get under the side support beam.
View attachment 1614358

Good Luck!

Your ventilation is great!
Do the chickens that roost on the highest board jump all the way to the floor?

 

[Acre4Me]

Your ventilation is great!
Do the chickens that roost on the highest board jump all the way to the floor?

Thanks! They hop down the roosts, or will jump between the roosts to the floor. In general, they sleep on the highest two and do not jump directly down from the highest one. But, when they hanging out inside, or coming in for the evening, they are on all roosts.

 

[jthornton]

For the most part! Just a few things I keep doubting myself on

I was thinking around 3’ for the poop board and roost 5-6” off of that. I was going to put a block or stump to help the heavier ladies up. My flock: 1 - Buff Orpington, 1 - Sapphire Gen & 2 - Easter Eggers

A 30" poop board will be big enough for standard size birds. Having the roost close to the poop board will make poop scooping a bit of a pain. I find that 12" gives me plenty of room to maneuver tools like my kitty litter scoop and my Sweet PDZ leveler without hitting the roost.

JT