Questions from a duck "noob"

This looks like it has some good advice:
http://www.hipchickdigs.com/2011/12/the-new-duck-coop/

Note that the wire used is 2" x 4" welded wire, which is not predator proof if a duck is sleeping or nesting against it... read many horror stories about skunks and raccoons reaching through the wire and killing birds. Best solution to this would be to make the bottom 2-3' out of something solid or wire with smaller holes.

-Kathy
 
Just had another thought... I read somewhere that a raccoon can squeeze through a 2" x 4" hole, and I have seen skunks squeeze through 2" x 4" welded wire, so keep that in mind when you're making their enclosures.

-Kathy
 
Just had another thought... I read somewhere that a raccoon can squeeze through a 2" x 4" hole, and I have seen skunks squeeze through 2" x 4" welded wire, so keep that in mind when you're making their enclosures.

-Kathy

Not only that, but they've got tiny paws, and if a bird is sleeping by the fence and a coon comes up, it'll grab the bird and simply yank whatever bits it can through the fence. It's not pretty. I've seen some people around here line their fences with a 2-foot high line of thick wire mesh screening, seems to be a fairly effective and affordable option.
 
We measured, it's actually 10x20 inside (200 sf, 4 feet a bird), but the total square feet of their pen (inside and out, including the run in--shed will be open once predator proofing is done) is about 1800 square feet (36 sq a bird). We're also still paddock shifting them during the day, they aren't always going to be in the pen. Does that sound ok?

This also goes back to another question people haven't commented on--do any of you leave the house doors open at night? How did you "predator proof"?
 
This looks like it has some good advice:
http://www.hipchickdigs.com/2011/12/the-new-duck-coop/

Note that the wire used is 2" x 4" welded wire, which is not predator proof if a duck is sleeping or nesting against it... read many horror stories about skunks and raccoons reaching through the wire and killing birds. Best solution to this would be to make the bottom 2-3' out of something solid or wire with smaller holes.

-Kathy


Thanks so much for this, it reassures me about the spacing issues.

I'm not sure if I mentioned it here, but the fence plan is as follows:
6' galvanized, pvc coated 1" chicken wire
6' welded wire fence (2"x4")--this will be bent 90 degrees at the bottom, out 18" and covered with dirt (18" is in excess of the 6 feet)
2' from the bottom 1/2" hardware cloth
(All fencing secured to each other with stainless hog rings)
1" galvanized chicken wire covering entire pen
Hot wire running top and bottom of the entire pen parameter
Barbed wire on top parameter of the fence

Seriously, we want this thing to be PREDATOR. PROOF.
 
We measured, it's actually 10x20 inside (200 sf, 4 feet a bird), but the total square feet of their pen (inside and out, including the run in--shed will be open once predator proofing is done) is about 1800 square feet (36 sq a bird). We're also still paddock shifting them during the day, they aren't always going to be in the pen. Does that sound ok?

This also goes back to another question people haven't commented on--do any of you leave the house doors open at night? How did you "predator proof"?
For ventilation, the first duck house had all openings covered with half inch metal hardware cloth. Their current night shelter, in the walkout basement gets the windows open during the day when they are in the day pen, and I close the windows at night (they have a dehumidifier and air purifier - too high tech for the long term, but I am concerned for their safety and this works for now).
 
Just noticed a flaw--meant to say in my last post that the pvc coated chicken wire will be bent and buried, not the welded wire.

Amiga, I have to ask, how is the smell in the basement and what are you using for bedding? How many ducks?
 
Thirteen ducks - 9 Runners, 4 Buffs. Two watering stations. Pine shavings.

Smell? Pleasant - smells of shavings. I do room service daily - spot picking manure, fluffing bedding with a cultivator, scraping out wet sawdust and poo from the watering stations, adding bedding as needed. I ask people to tell me about the smell, and everyone has commented how fresh it is.

Have you seen my watering station photo?

There are two occasional short-term exceptions to the pleasant smell. If the ducks get nervous, they make an aromatic poop. That clears out pretty quickly once I open the door and do room service. Or if a soft egg was laid and then walked into the bedding - I can smell that within a day, and then I will find it when I do room service.
 
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No! I haven't, please link, me i'd love to see it! I'm hoping it helps my predicament with drinking water--i know many people don't do it seperately from the swimming pools ;) but in the morning and evening feeds once they're on "full access" in the pen, i want to try and keep drinking water poop free--just inside their pen in the eating area. A pool will be set up on the opposite side and in the paddocks.
 
I have found with my Runners that a flat-bottomed, straight-sided pot works well. They cannot tip it over - especially nestled down into sawdust pellets. And it's plenty for them to drink and wash their heads.

The sides are high enough to catch splash, and the sawdust pellets absorb loads of water.


This one is for three ducks - from a very well cleaned out cat litter box.


From the bottom half of a large plastic dog crate.
 

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