Rabbit Hutch Requirements for Californian and New Zealands

[AZ Heat]

30" deep by 36" wide by 18" high is the recommended size for NZ and Californians. Although I have seen many people keep them in 30" x 30" x 18' with no problems (these are all wire cages). Having a multi-compartment hutch is different. But hopefully that gives you a good starting point. All my rabbits are in all wire cages.

Also, if you are making a wire cage, many will tell you to put the door either on the left or right side of the front. If you do this, you'll have a heck of a time reaching back to the opposite corner (particularly if 36" wide). My doors are all dead center, with water on one side and feeder on the other (of the front).

 

[dewey]

Also, single level wire bank cages can have very large top-open doors which are so convenient and which leave the entire cage front free with enough space for an 11" J feeder, a small J feeder, a couple of water bottles, and a small hay rack...something that's not possible with front doors large enough for big rabbits and big nest boxes on a 36" wide cage.

Something else to keep in mind when planning cage size and door placement is the actual door size and making sure there's enough space left to fit all the other stuff on the outside. A 36" wide cage with a 16+" wide door (the bigger the better) starts to run out of room for the big feeders and other stuff.

 

[WhiteMountainsRanch]

I started mine in 24" x 30" and they definitely were NOT big enough. Now I have them in 30" x 36" and it is much better. I would go as large as you can. I am thinking about taking the divider out of the middle of each cage and giving each bun it's own large double cage.

 

[dewey]

A 24 x 45" cage (1080) provides the same space as a 36 x 30 (1080) and give them an extra hop space...if I had the room I'd much prefer having the longer, 24" wide cages. The 1080 square inches is big enough to keep the kits in with the doe until 8-10 weeks, since the nest box comes out when they're about 2 weeks old.

Something else...if one wants does to be able to get up on top of the nest box for a break from the kits, 24" tall cages are really needed (if nest boxes with partial tops are being used). I have both 18" & 24" tall cages but the 18" ones work just as well in my experience since by the time the does might want to get up on the boxes, the kits are old enough to get up there with them, anyway.

 

[kuntrygirl]

Very good information being provided by everyone.

 

[debilorrah]

Quote:
FYI - this worked for a bit, but they have been able to get to the top level since 5 weeks old.

Adventurous little stinkers.

 

[dewey]

Quote:
FYI - this worked for a bit, but they have been able to get to the top level since 5 weeks old.

Adventurous little stinkers.

Yep!

They can almost follow the does anywhere by the time they can hop out of the box.

 

[ChickenAlgebra]

Ours have 24 deep x 48 long x 24 high. Easier to reach corners, and ours like the length to hop in vs the depth. Boards are sold on 8 ft lengths, this makes no waste.

 

[wannabchick]

Quote:
Great info..xoxo

 

[dewey]

Many of us do not use wood, at all...all wire. I use 5/8" .065 wall steel tubing as legs on the ones I make with legs or stands.