Racoons - how smart are they?

[Yetti]

I guess I am assuming a lot here. if your tunnel box has a door you can't grab and has to lifted by a handle does the handle have a hinge? if so then you you can drill a hole and pin the handle so it can't function when pressure is applied. secondly if your handle design is a straight pull you can add a lockable bolt to it so it can't be lifted. I used the style that's about 1/2" thick. that way nothing is going to bend it or chew it loose. if the door is mounted so when its down into the slot its not visible. then you can just have the bolt be a blocker out side the run to prevent to the door being pushed up. I suggest concrete patio blocks 8" x 16" as pavement in the run in front of the door if you have nothing to prevent digging. that way if its just door to dirt a critter has to get past the concrete to dig under.

 

[The Lazy L]

Quote:
Angle Iron: <Picture>

Drill holes in the bottom part of the "L" and screw to the coop. The upright part of the "L" up against the outside of the door (leave about a 1/4" gap between angle iron and door). Now the Coon has to reach in the 1/4" gap and down 1 1/4" to get to the bottom of the door.

I thought about just using a 1" x 1" piece of wood but when I saw the posted picture off something chewing thru a wood fence and killing all the chickens I liked the angle iron idea better.

 

[Hunter0704]

I have posted some pictures of the wood tunnel (not painted yet) showing all angles, including the guillotine door located at back of tunnel next to side of coop, to give you a much better idea of how the door raises and lowers back down. Straight up and straight down, that's it.

I need something to screw into the top of the wood tunnel by the guillotine door, then attach something(?) to that which can then be attached to the handle on the door, so the door cannot move without removing the connecting piece.

Do the pics help?

Thanks.

 

[The Lazy L]

Quote:
A hasp with a carabiner (instead of a pad lock) should do the trick.

 

[Hunter0704]

A hasp with a carabiner (instead of a pad lock) should do the trick.

I think that sounds great!!! Thank you so much. I will get those today!!!!

 

[RoosterRidge]

I watched a program on Racoons awhile back. They are highly intelligent and you can never fool them twice. They will figure out a way unless you protect yourself against them. They are so cute to look at until one of them or their whole family decides to get your flock. They can open just about anything. Just look at them as a four legged little human with hands. Their spine can flatten out so they can squeeze in and out of close quarters. DH got between a mama and her baby one night and she was not playing around. He didn't even see them and all of a sudden here came mama charging. One of her babies had got into an old air conditioner cover and when she realized it was not with her she freaked. Good luck to you and like some have posted already, piece of mind for yourself is the best way to go. When they figure out that you have a food source for them they will be relentless.

 

[Chemguy]

It helpful to me to think of racoons as being very focused, 5-year-old humans. Anything a little kindergartener can do, so can they. That, and they don't give up.

 

[GoldenSparrow]

We once had racoon that would open our garage!!

 

[Yetti]

That's what I had envisioned. if the bottom of the door in the tunnel is secured where nothing can get a tooth or a toe under it then you just need a bolt style latch on top to key it in.

http://www.tractorsupply.com/national-hardware-reg-v1134-slide-bolt-latch-zinc-3541241
all you need to do is mount it and drill a hole for it to key into the door. once secure it won't move.

the one thing I will say is that anything a Raccoon can sit and play with they will get open if its not a keyed pad lock. they have time on their side. use a real lock and not a clip when its down low and they can reach it easy.

 

[Gargoyle]

That plywood isn't too thick. What is the chance a Raccoon could tear/eat through it?