Rescuing neglected chickens...help!

[Trux]

I wouldn't install the heat lamp they're a fire hazard. Not a lot of point in rescuing them if you cook them alive in a fire.
I don't know how sick these poor chickens are but unless it gets extremely cold, they shouldn't need additional heat.
Decent feeding should supply the calories they need to keep warm.
Don't bother with the DE either. There is no evidence that it works. Seriously don't waste your time and money with it.
Permethrin powder, or spray for the mites and lice.
Nutri Drench or any vitamin supplement will help give them a bit of a boost.
I would consider feeding them a mash. A feed at 20% protein and 1% calcium would be ideal. Make the mash by adding warm water until the feed is wet but not so wet that you can pour it.
Tuna and even chopped meat is good.
Plenty of straw or wood shaving on the floor in case as mentioned above they can't make the perches. Temporary nest type boxes with straw in, one big one , might be an idea.
Lots of good advice in the posts above.
Good luck.

 

[Trux]

View attachment 1642575 View attachment 1642576 View attachment 1642577 View attachment 1642578
Thank you so much! Lots of helpful info. I can always count on y’all- there’s so much wisdom on BYC go go around!
Attached above are some photos of the shed, taken today.

We have plenty of yard space, but we also have a pair of hawks that nest in the woods literally right behind our house. We just moved here almost a year ago, but according to the neighbors they’re known for snatching chickens from when someone else down the road had a flock a few years ago. According to their range, they do fly south for the winter, and I haven’t seen them since early November, so free ranging would probably be fine until it warms up. But we do live kinda out in “the sticks” so I definitely worry about wildlife.

Covered run and or a chicken tractor! dont leave your run open at the top

 

[Fishkeeper]

If you have hawks, you need a run with a roof on it. A simple netting will do the trick, though you want to pick something relatively visible so hawks won't dive and get tangled. I've never tried to untangle a hawk from netting, but I imagine it's not pleasant for anyone, least of all the hawk.

 

[Shadrach]

There is one other thing that doesn't get mentioned very much about rescuing chickens.
Chickens generally adapt to their environment very well. However, the pathogens in the environment they are coming from may be different to those where you intend to keep them. Moving these chickens will be stressful for them (and you ) and stress can weaken their immune system. There may for example be a coccidia strain in your soil that they have not built up any immunity to. Worms is yet another one.
I would make sure you have Corid or whatever is available in your area that will kill the coccidia virus; a preventative isn't enough.
I would also make sure you have a wormer available, any Flubendazole product would be my recommendation.

 

[Cragg Klefor]

Hey guys,
I just had a coworker reach out to me asking for help with a situation. She has an older family member who has been sick for a long time, recently to the point where they're mostly housebound and unable to do much. I don't know them personally, but I do know they don't have a lot of family/support around and they have some mental condition going on...They have a flock of chickens that has been increasingly neglected since they became sick. My coworker knows that I used to raise chickens and that I was planning on picking the hobby back up this spring, and so they asked if I'd be willing to take on the remaining flock. I guess they don't want their family member to get in trouble with animal control services, so they told them they'd find them a new home.
It's currently in the dead of winter where I am, with the average temps in the low 30's. It's not suppose to warm up for another 3-4 months from now. I have a shed that I got this past fall and was planning on converting into a coop this spring when the snow melted. It's built and all, but that's it- it's just an empty shed. I don't have a run set up, no roosts or nest boxes or anything. So, I should be declining to take them on. But she says the situation is pretty dire...Apparently the chickens have been dying left and right because they've stopped eating and don't have access to water because it keeps freezing over. Their coop situation is horrible as it's not maintained and they're essentially living in their own filth. I guarantee they have a whole host of health issues- lice, mites, worms, etc...all of which I know how to treat for the most part, but I also haven't done this in 6 or so years.
I really should decline given the situation, but I don't think I can bring myself to. They don't know anyone else who would consider taking them and I fear they're all going to continue suffering and dying before another solution can be found. Some of you might suggest that culling is the most humane option, but they don't want to kill them (and neither will I). My heart breaks thinking about those poor chooks in their filthy, uninsulated coop with frozen water and no food. There's only 4 hens left, all around 4 years old. I think I can pull something together in the next few days, I already have a large (albeit empty) shed and a heated waterer that I used to use. I can easily run to the local tractor supply/feed store and pick up all the supplies I need.
What do you guys think? I'm torn here. I really want to help, but I'm gonna need a lot of advice from y'all about treating these chooks for whatever health ailments they're bound to have...I would bet my life that they definitely have lice, mites, and roundworm at the least. If the plan is to go forward with this, what would be the best course of action? Best things to pick up? I have no idea what state they'll be in other than that they've been living in filth and have stopped eating. Sigh, why do people take on animals they can't properly care for...

Before I go collect rescue chickens the absolute necessities are:
Somewhere safe, dry and draft free they can call home
Secure, roofed and wind proofed, with a dry floor. Bedding is needed here, hay or straw do fine, but pine needles are probably better pest wise. I do not heat my coops - these girls come from a factory with round the clock heating. They do perfectly fine once they can get out of the wind/rain. In fact, they often still choose to be outside on wet, windy days, so once their coop is dry and draft free they have always done fine. I do fill a corner with straw as I feel it is warmer for them to snuggle into their first few days, which they do. I don't need to provide roosts for a few weeks as they do not be able to get to them until their strength builds. I need something to hold feed and water in, and a few nest boxes (depending on how many chickens I am taking, one per four seems fine). Cardboard boxes will suffice until something more solid and permanent is arranged. Hardware cloth is your friend. Cover all exteriors with hardware cloth if at all possible. They will need a run also of course, but initially you could put up a temporary run which would need to be supervised until something more permanent.
Feed, Oyster shell & Grit
My local layer feed is 16% protein and I want to give them more than that so I provide an 18% grower feed which I steep in water the night before. For the first few days I also give them greek yoghurt and tinned cat food. They love this and it can get their appetites going as they can be very fretful being in such a new world. It takes time before these girls will see tuna as a food source and not something going to eat them. They initially run away but after a few weeks they love tuna too. After the first week they get only chicken feed available always, and a high protein treat once a week. (I am strict with this. They have been through enough, I do not want to add to a weakened system by diluting their nutrients).
A Sick bay
This simply needs to be somewhere you can put a chicken if it is ill and the others are pecking at it. Blocking off a corner of the coop is perfectly ok. The move can bring out all kinds of things in chickens and the first few weeks are always a time of very close observation.
Poultry Vitamins
They need to build up their strength in the first few months. Once a week I add poultry vitamins to their drinking water.
Sudocreme
The rescue chickens I collect will often be partially naked. This causes pecking (and is mostly from pecking). Sudocreme seems to help - a lot.
Vaseline
Scaley leg mites always present to some extent. To Vaseline their legs now really helps before the problem gets worse.
Permethrin Powder & Spray
Lice and mites often a serious issue upon arrival. Dust each chicken as I am letting them into their new home. The spray is used 10 days later when the chickens get dusted again I spray the coop.
Dog nail clippers/nail foil
Overgrown nails (and beaks/crossbeaks) always an issue. I do this day one also - maintenance required.
Corid.
With my rescue chickens it will be their first time on ground, with yours, it will be new ground. So Coccidiosis is a possibility. If this strikes, you don't want to be going looking for corid, you'll need it straight away and time is of the essence.
Epsom Salts
The stress involved in the move can and does bring on egg binding and other reproductive disorders. An epsom salt bath (or many) is often required within the first few days.

The above are the things I use immediately on collection of the rescue chickens as I am unloading them. They get dusted with Permethrin, nails get clipped (they have been living on wire so terribly long nails), vaseline on their legs for the scaley leg mites, sudocreme on any bare, red or bloody patches, have wet feed ready and clean water with added poultry vitamins alongside oyster shell and grit (beside food so they can find it straight away). The Permethrin spray is for the housing, I don't use the spray on the chickens.

I hold off and wait to see if I feel I need to worm. I know depending on location and weather conditions this seems to be required in some places so a good broad spectrum wormer is probably necessary also.

The above is essential to me before collection. The following have proven to be essential at later times.
Electorlytes - lethargic chicken
Antibiotic Ointment - wounded-open to infection
Tylan 50 - respiratory illnesses
Amoxicillin - internal infections/reproductive disorders
Calcium Supplements - laying issues
B Complex vitamins - deficiency
Bandages
Gauze
Vet wrap
Scalpel (bumblefoot)
Sulfa powder
Manuka honey
For crop issues (which are many with chickens that have only ever had access to pellets and are now on the ground): this article has saved me, and some of my chickens! https://www.backyardchickens.com/ar...d-sour-crops-prevention-and-treatments.67194/
Also, on hand, I strongly recommend this forum. It should be on every chicken owners list of necessities. Even if you never need to post, you will so often find useful info either in the articles or within the forums.

As a final note, I tend to the 'essential' things I listed above straight away. I find it best to nip things in the bud, also, If you are needing to constantly upset the new chickens by trying to tend to these things over time in the first weeks they will be very skittish and afraid of you. Their priority when they see you will be to hide or get away. My advise is: do as much as you can, as soon as you can, then show the new girls you are someone who feeds them, not someone who upsets them. They will become really friendly really quickly
I am sure I have forgotten to mention some things, but I will think more about it and add to this post when anything comes to me. What an exciting time for you

My avator is my little rescue Dolly (she is a real little dolly bird). I took that photo in her first week with me. I will need to take a new photo and upload it. She is a fine bird and I am only her proud human around 5 months now!

 

[CCUK]

Before I go collect rescue chickens the absolute necessities are:
Somewhere safe, dry and draft free they can call home
Secure, roofed and wind proofed, with a dry floor. Bedding is needed here, hay or straw do fine, but pine needles are probably better pest wise. I do not heat my coops - these girls come from a factory with round the clock heating. They do perfectly fine once they can get out of the wind/rain. In fact, they often still choose to be outside on wet, windy days, so once their coop is dry and draft free they have always done fine. I do fill a corner with straw as I feel it is warmer for them to snuggle into their first few days, which they do. I don't need to provide roosts for a few weeks as they do not be able to get to them until their strength builds. I need something to hold feed and water in, and a few nest boxes (depending on how many chickens I am taking, one per four seems fine). Cardboard boxes will suffice until something more solid and permanent is arranged. Hardware cloth is your friend. Cover all exteriors with hardware cloth if at all possible. They will need a run also of course, but initially you could put up a temporary run which would need to be supervised until something more permanent.
Feed, Oyster shell & Grit
My local layer feed is 16% protein and I want to give them more than that so I provide an 18% grower feed which I steep in water the night before. For the first few days I also give them greek yoghurt and tinned cat food. They love this and it can get their appetites going as they can be very fretful being in such a new world. It takes time before these girls will see tuna as a food source and not something going to eat them. They initially run away but after a few weeks they love tuna too. After the first week they get only chicken feed available always, and a high protein treat once a week. (I am strict with this. They have been through enough, I do not want to add to a weakened system by diluting their nutrients).
A Sick bay
This simply needs to be somewhere you can put a chicken if it is ill and the others are pecking at it. Blocking off a corner of the coop is perfectly ok. The move can bring out all kinds of things in chickens and the first few weeks are always a time of very close observation.
Poultry Vitamins
They need to build up their strength in the first few months. Once a week I add poultry vitamins to their drinking water.
Sudocreme
The rescue chickens I collect will often be partially naked. This causes pecking (and is mostly from pecking). Sudocreme seems to help - a lot.
Vaseline
Scaley leg mites always present to some extent. To Vaseline their legs now really helps before the problem gets worse.
Permethrin Powder & Spray
Lice and mites often a serious issue upon arrival. Dust each chicken as I am letting them into their new home. The spray is used 10 days later when the chickens get dusted again I spray the coop.
Dog nail clippers/nail foil
Overgrown nails (and beaks/crossbeaks) always an issue. I do this day one also - maintenance required.
Corid.
With my rescue chickens it will be their first time on ground, with yours, it will be new ground. So Coccidiosis is a possibility. If this strikes, you don't want to be going looking for corid, you'll need it straight away and time is of the essence.
Epsom Salts
The stress involved in the move can and does bring on egg binding and other reproductive disorders. An epsom salt bath (or many) is often required within the first few days.

The above are the things I use immediately on collection of the rescue chickens as I am unloading them. They get dusted with Permethrin, nails get clipped (they have been living on wire so terribly long nails), vaseline on their legs for the scaley leg mites, sudocreme on any bare, red or bloody patches, have wet feed ready and clean water with added poultry vitamins alongside oyster shell and grit (beside food so they can find it straight away). The Permethrin spray is for the housing, I don't use the spray on the chickens.

I hold off and wait to see if I feel I need to worm. I know depending on location and weather conditions this seems to be required in some places so a good broad spectrum wormer is probably necessary also.

The above is essential to me before collection. The following have proven to be essential at later times.
Electorlytes - lethargic chicken
Antibiotic Ointment - wounded-open to infection
Tylan 50 - respiratory illnesses
Amoxicillin - internal infections/reproductive disorders
Calcium Supplements - laying issues
B Complex vitamins - deficiency
Bandages
Gauze
Vet wrap
Scalpel (bumblefoot)
Sulfa powder
Manuka honey
For crop issues (which are many with chickens that have only ever had access to pellets and are now on the ground): this article has saved me, and some of my chickens! https://www.backyardchickens.com/ar...d-sour-crops-prevention-and-treatments.67194/
Also, on hand, I strongly recommend this forum. It should be on every chicken owners list of necessities. Even if you never need to post, you will so often find useful info either in the articles or within the forums.

As a final note, I tend to the 'essential' things I listed above straight away. I find it best to nip things in the bud, also, If you are needing to constantly upset the new chickens by trying to tend to these things over time in the first weeks they will be very skittish and afraid of you. Their priority when they see you will be to hide or get away. My advise is: do as much as you can, as soon as you can, then show the new girls you are someone who feeds them, not someone who upsets them. They will become really friendly really quickly
I am sure I have forgotten to mention some things, but I will think more about it and add to this post when anything comes to me. What an exciting time for you

My avator is my little rescue Dolly (she is a real little dolly bird). I took that photo in her first week with me. I will need to take a new photo and upload it. She is a fine bird and I am only her proud human around 5 months now!

 

[CCUK]

This is great. I love that you are going to take these hens in. They will need a little extra tlc but I'm sure they will bounce back to health soon enough. Chickens are very resilient animals! You've had a lot of very good advice and you know chickens so Im sure you will do fine. Just a thought about fencing for the new coop and run, can you get a hold of any construction fencing? The temporary type you see around building sites that bolt together? We call it heras fencing. If you can get half a dozen panels you could build a reasonably large run in quick time. Just Bury the bases, add a hardware cloth skirt and and maybe put some more mesh on the sides. It would be pretty much inpenatrable and you can add to it and modify it as and when you need. Also for the top pond netting would keep terrors from above out. It comes in quite big sizes (20mx30m) and is fairly cheap. You could put pieces of tinfoil on to make it more visable.

 

[TropicalBabies]

You chicken people are always looking for a feel-good story........

But yeah, since you already wanted chickens and planned to have them, why not pick up these 4 who are in dire need of help. Just makes sense.

So much better than a feel-like-crap story.

 

[CCUK]

So much better than a feel-like-crap story.

I like feel good stories. There's to much negativity about. Here's to good chicken health!

 

[TropicalBabies]

I like feel good stories. There's to much negativity about. Here's to good chicken health!

Agreed! Why be part of the problem?! Maybe someone was joking???