Review of this cool style.

Leigti

Songster
Oct 22, 2015
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Walla Walla WA
Is anybody familiar with this coop plan? I'm thinking about doing something similar to it. But I was wondering what people think of it in general. I would be keeping about 10 birds in it at night, free range during the day. And I want the roosts all on one level.
700

So what do you think?
 

cavemanrich

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7 Years
Apr 6, 2014
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Looks good but If it was I,, then I would just build it larger with bottom area included in coop and able to walk inside. The underneath is just unnecessary unless you are tight for space. It would be the run then.
WISHING YOU BEST
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Pork Pie

Flockwit
Premium Feather Member
6 Years
Jan 30, 2015
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It looks nice, but i'm strongly in the using a shed as a coop brigade - so much easier to build / erect and allows for the age old problem of "chicken maths".

CT
 

Leigti

Songster
Oct 22, 2015
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I am not really short on space. The chickens will roam the yard most of the day. I know what you mean by chicken math:) But I am trying to control myself. But I will be going from 2 to 10. I do not plan to have food or water in the coop itself. It will be built right beside my garage. I will also build a run so they can be confined if I'm out of town etc.
Is it cheaper to buy one of those prefab sheds or build one yourself? I may have to re-thinksome things. I am not made of money, but I don't plan on ever building another coop either. I am looking to make it as low maintenance as possible.
 

Pork Pie

Flockwit
Premium Feather Member
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I am not really short on space. The chickens will roam the yard most of the day. I know what you mean by chicken math:) But I am trying to control myself. But I will be going from 2 to 10. I do not plan to have food or water in the coop itself. It will be built right beside my garage. I will also build a run so they can be confined if I'm out of town etc.
Is it cheaper to buy one of those prefab sheds or build one yourself? I may have to re-thinksome things. I am not made of money, but I don't plan on ever building another coop either. I am looking to make it as low maintenance as possible.

I honestly can't comment on the cost differences as i live in Kenya and we can't buy prefab sheds. Maybe even a second hand corrugated metal / plastic affair would be something to consider? - no issues with rotting wood, can be hosed down (particularly if you put it on concrete). Like you, i am certainly not made of money - i converted my shed by putting some tree branches for roosts and plastic basins for nests - if you look at my profile you will see what i did. I don't normally live in this property as we usually rent it out, so i needed to do something at lowest possible cost as it will more than likely be gutted at some point (assuming the next tenants don't want chickens).

Good luck

All the best
CT
 

cavemanrich

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I agree wit CTHen as to so much easier to build a simple shed. Not sure what your budget is, but it is usually cheaper to build your own. If you buy one of those prefab sheds, they are built barebone minimum. If you build yours that way , then it wont cost much ether. Consider the convenience of having food and water inside coop on rainy days or If you have winters, ( not sure of your location) snow in your feed. When you are not able to be home, how will chickens be fed??? If you have feed inside coop, PROBLEM SOLVED... You also state that you do not plan to build another coop ever. Consider one of such as pictured for about $200. They will not handle 10, but 4 to 5 might be OK.
 

Leigti

Songster
Oct 22, 2015
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I have coop similar to the one pictured. It did work good for 2 to 3 chickens but sure won't hold the 8 to 10 I'm planning on :) A friend of mine will help me build it, let's be real she'll build it and I'll help her. Definitely have winter here, hasn't been above freezing for a week. If I build a more enclosed walk in type coupe then I could have food and water inside. Otherwise I will have it out in the run but that section will be covered. I am going to look through the coop section again and check out the walk in types. I don't mind spending money for quality, I'd rather build one good coop then have to rebuild something in a couple three years.
 

aart

Chicken Juggler!
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The only decent design feature here is the monitor roofline....but they screw that up by not having it open for ventilation.

Another cute but too small, too short coop.....with no ventilation or windows for light.
 

Leigti

Songster
Oct 22, 2015
1,700
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Walla Walla WA
The only decent design feature here is the monitor roofline....but they screw that up by not having it open for ventilation.

Another cute but too small, too short coop.....with no ventilation or windows for light.

I thought about doing something like it, where the sides would be 4 feet tall and then Cupolla running the entire length of it with windows that could open and vents. As well as adding more windows to it. Is 4 feet for the bottom wall tall enough, I want to put in roostsall at the same level at about 2 feet or so with a poop board underneath. Leaving about 20 inches of headroom for the chickens. That way they would have the floorspace of the entire coop to be in if the weather was really bad. 8 x 4 equals 32 feet.
Am I right that most of the Vance should be above their heads when they're on the roost so that the air does not go directly on them? I still need to do a lot of research on that. I look at pictures and it seems like The placement of vents Windows etc. is sort of random. I like the Cupolla running the entire lengthbecause if you put vents all the way along it it lets out a lot of hot air in the summer. I understand what to do in the summer but still a little confused as to make it the right airflow for winter.
 

aart

Chicken Juggler!
Premium Feather Member
9 Years
Nov 27, 2012
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Quote: Height is important in coop design, and shouldn't be scrimped on IMO....and I prefer a walk in coop for ease of daily maintenance.

There's a 'stack up' aspect to coop design:
Bottom of pop door should be about 8" above floor so bedding doesn't get dragged out of coop.
Nice to have bottom of nests about 18" above bedding to allow use of that floor space under them(doesn't count if your nests are mounted on outside of coop).
Roosts should be about 12" higher than nests so birds won't roost(sleep) in nests and poop in them.
Upper venting should be as high as possible above roosts so no strong drafts hit roosts in winter...and hot/moist air and ammonia can rise and exit coop.

A cupola can create passive air flow by being open all the time, the cross breeze up there draws stale air out of building.
They often have static louvers to keep rain and snow from falling/blowing inside.
Make up/fresh air usually enters via an opening(s) down lower in building.
Might be good to have cupola openings(or any coop venting) dampered, louvered or closable depending on climate, prevailing winds, and for during extreme weather events.

Chickens still need lots of ventilation in winter no matter what the climate. They create moisture and ammonia all year long.
I have a clerestory roofline with open eaves that are open all year long and a baffle(sheet of cardboard on coop ceiling) over the roost area to keep strong drafts and blowing snow off the roost area, but all windows are closed during winter here.
My coop is 6' x 16' x 8' tall in a 16' x 16' building, one 16' wire wall and ceiling, so lots of air space...make up air comes in pop door and my entry/exit during the day.
 

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